power dies at 6400rpm.
AirFlow Research has written about this. GMHIGHTECHPERFORMANCE magazine's cylinder head shoot-out showed much the same thing at about the same RPM 6200-6400 (both are on their sites). GMHTP was running a 230/236 HR, close to what you're running.
Popular HotRodding had the same experience at about the same rpm point. I'll try to find the link to see if they ever solved it - I usually save links to things like this.
Could be cam, springs, valve train dynamics, harmonics setting in, ignition or something else entirely. I still feel you're expecting too much from your combination. Just getting the engine to rev higher doesn't mean the power hasn't taken a nose dive up there.
I'm sure the cam card shows the tested rpm power range of your cam. What does it say?
Taking a HR above what you're now seeing isn't the norm. Heavy lifters, more aggressive lobe ramps, limited spring pressures, pushrods, etc., all conspire to work against rpms higher than what you're now seeing. Especially rpms where the engine is still making more power.
One series of dyno tests I read about in one of the better known mags said something to the effect "It was like the engine hit a brick wall. Repeated tests and it wouldn't even go 25 rpm higher".
So my thinking is that if you're really determined to make more power at rpms higher than you're now seeing, you're looking at changing some valve train parts. If it were me, I'd immediately go with a solid roller. Starting in the mid 240 @ .050 range with the required springs, etc.
Jake
I have a valvetrain with beehives that is good to 7000rpms and with GM lifters to boot. The rules from a couple decades ago no longer apply.
I have admitted and stated that the power goals are not my first worry at the moment, but the fact that a high revving camshaft dies at 6400 IS.
Lastly, your comment on going solid roller is, no offense, ridiculous. I have 2500 miles on my current setup that I just spent ~$2500 doing less then 6 months ago. Going solid roller before honestly chasing the problem around anymore is just stupid. A solid roller setup, done right (which is the only way I'd do it) would cost another $2500-3000. I don't have that kind of money.
I am going to look into swapping springs, perhaps that is an existing issue. After that, maybe it could be opti. I know I'd rather do an LS1 PCM swap, rather then go solid roller...
I vote for 7/16 ultra pro mags and patriot extremes...
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The only other thing I could think of is that maybe whoever you bought your cam from sold you a smaller cam than what it really was on accident or something. The only way to know for sure would be to take it out and measure it though.
The only other thing I could think of is that maybe whoever you bought your cam from sold you a smaller cam than what it really was on accident or something. The only way to know for sure would be to take it out and measure it though.
I bought the camshaft direct from Summit. Brand new Lunati, it's not the cam.
Also, I'm assuming when you say preload, you mean on the rocker arms? If so they're at 1/8 turn.
Scorpion is fine.
People OFTEN mess up preload by screwing up "zero lash" How did you find "Zero Lash"? If you "spun the pushrod" you probably got it way too tight.
Scorpion is fine.
People OFTEN mess up preload by screwing up "zero lash" How did you find "Zero Lash"? If you "spun the pushrod" you probably got it way too tight.
Sometimes it pays to listen to the minority voice over the popular one.






