MICHZ28

There are so many things that you could have done wrong it's tough to say. You never said what type of problems that you were having, just having problems. More info would be helpful.

fireman

I tried to figure out why my clutch would not disengage for almost a year. It was a ram powergrip with less than 1k on it. I replaced the entire hydraulics setup, torqued everything to spec. R and rd the damn tranny 7 times checking everything. Replaced the flywheel and pressure plate, and bearing. Never thought of replacing disc because it still looked perfect and new. In a last ditch effort, I bought a disc from clutchnet and now everything works perfect. So well, in fact, that I sheared 4 teeth off my richmond gears the next day on a 1-2 shift.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

My RAM had a problem with drag, but only had trouble getting trans into reverse. My old clutches didn't start engaging until about 1/2 past its travel. The RAM engages just off the floor. With this clutch I have to make sure the pedal is completely on the floor before going into reverse. Once this is done it will go into reverse easily.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

He is having clutch drag as a result of incomplete release.

Short of NOT torqueing all fasteners to proper spec, putting the disk in backwards or frigging it up when inserting the tranny. How can incomplete release of the disk result from install error? IMO this stuff really just bolts right up.

BALLSS

well I will jump in with my $02. Have installed 4 clutch brands in my current ride (4200+ lb B-Body). Valeo, SPEC 2+, ZOOM HP and Clutchnet. had no "operational" problems with them after install.

....well IMHO having purchased both I would pass on both. Bought a RAM & ZOOM from Summit. sent the RAM back based on construction appearance...or the lack of it. The ZOOM...while it appeared to be a better built disc. the Kevlar material made it to the starting line on the 2nd season but died like the SPEC 2+ did. i do not recomment kevlar disc for a street/strip car.


For the $ this appears to be a solid solution to the LT1 higher HP cars. I have driven a car with one. clutch pedal is way firmer than a stock single disc clutch. much larger surface area with the 2 discs would explain why it holds well. many of the high HP new cars come with a "dual" clutch now

The 2250 is on my screen as a good DF clutch. Have no direct experience with it but would consider it for my next clutch IF I needed a complete clutch kit. Otherwise I would consider a Mcleod DF disc with a stock PP

I did not have any chatter after break in. Clutch did well on it's first season but died on 2nd. Only had about 2200 miles on it.

"Stiffer Pedal"...well I did a PP load test on the ZOOM PP and it was the same as a stock valeo PP so "heavier pedal" due to any higher clamp force should not be there...and was not for me.


FWIW after killing my SPEC & ZOOM I went to Clutchnet to see WTF they do to make the LT1 PP with higher clamp force and inspect their materials and build process on discs. This is a small shop in SoCal (behind a house) and when i pulled up I thought this was going nowhere. They have been in biz since the 60's and have about 6 guys working in the shop. they machine all the disc parts in-house (hub and disc backings & facings). they buy their friction materials from the same places most clutch companies do. The owner was frank about how so many clutch companies use China parts if not having the entire clutch made in China and just putting their name & paint color on it.

They do not make any PP (don't think any clutch company casts their own PP's) but they do dismantle them and then do a heat, bend in jig, heat, bend process to make the fulcrum angle of the diaphram more thus increaseing clamp force. i saw them do this and watched a before/after load test showing a increase of about 25% in clamp force. Other companies claim they also "modify" the PP but would not go into detail. McLeod and ZOOM flat out said they do not. SPEC claims but will not say how. i would assume the companies that do this do the same thing...it is not rocket science.

On the CN disc construction I was impressed. Fully covered springs (not encased in plastic), solid 1 piece spline machined from a solid piece. Solid facing plates with or without marcel depending on what you want and a choice of Organic, Kevlar, Ceramic friction materials. I had them make me a disc using a Raybestis material no longer manufactured but it is what was used in clutches back in the 70's. So far it is holding up very well.

A few pics. ZOOM and SPEC 2+ after about 2k miles and the CN disc. Also a measurement (crude) showing the difference in diaphram finger angle on PP with the CN one vs. a stock PP.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

I still can't believe you like the zoom disc construction when it is nothing more than a stock disc with their friction material. I have seen a few stock discs with the stock friction material literally ripped in half, so putting a grippier friction material on top of an already weak as hell cage is asking for a disaster. Not to mention the springs can't even handle the the stock friction surface let alone a grippier one. I'm lucky I just warped the stock disc instead of tearing it in half.

BALLSS

a few years ago I felt the ZOOM was better constructed than the RAM

I DO NOT HAVE A + OPINION ABOUT ZOOM NOW. lesson learned after running one.

So after either running or inspecting a Valeo, SPEC, Mcleod DF disc, ZOOM & Clutchnet my current opinion is CN 'makes" a better disc in terms of construction materials/method. 2 years from now I may have a different opinion but the CN I currently run has perfect street maners and grips very well considering it is not a ceramic puc type disc..

brucer

how come more dont run the centerforce dual friction clutch?

Houdini

iTrader: (2)

Went through 3 different clutches, all problems ended when I switched to the McLeod Street Twin.

Just my experience.

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Because it's a piece of ****.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

From seeing what folks have posted, it has full release issues too.

LVZ2881

iTrader: (4)

I have the Competition Clutch 2250 in my car now. I put about 100 miles on it before I spun a rod bearing, but I like it so far, very little chatter, and drives like a stock clutch.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

ram powergrip hd is a badass clutch, i ran one for a few years. its is NOT too grabby for the street either. speed_demon24 has one as well i believe... i guess we drive cookie cutters though.

great421

iTrader: (1)

Counted Out -

Your sig (Cold Air Intake, Magnaflow 3" Exhaust w/Cut-Out, and Pacesetter Shorty Headers) does not seem to indicate 450 RWHP; so, unless you are moving to forced induction in the near future, may I respectfully suggest the LT4 clutch & pressure plate.

I say this because I, like you, also have had 'issues' with 2 different SPEC 3+ kevlar clutches, one died after only 15,000 miles and a second exploded after 1,500 miles!

I've had the LT4 unit in for over 2 years and am quite pleased. It doesn't chatted at all, and it holds when my turbo spools.

Just a thought...

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I have a few mods in line (cam, headers, roller rockers) that should push me up some in HP, so I just wanted something that would hold more HP than I need so I don't have to worry about it if I decide to change the heads or add a small shot of N20.

tpagreenhornet

iTrader: (5)

Spec can eat a dick. After sending me a sprung hub disc when I ordered a solid. They over nighted me my replacement which wasn't even a clutch for a small block Chevy andstill charged me for the shipping. I'll never do business with them again or recommend them.