the lifters are brand new, im thinking about changing to a 503cc. i think this cam is to big for stock bottom end anyways.

 

236/244; .555/576 lift; 112 LSA

 

Changing cams isn't the answer, not at this point it isn't.

What's needed here are more details and accuracy. More specifics; more numbers.

There are just too many unknown variables involved here; none of which have been posted. Any one of which could be the cause of your problem but since we don't know the specifics -what's been tested, measured, examined, etc. - best you're going to get are guesses.

To start from the beginning using a scientific approach: Who did what and how'd he do it? What were the results? Numbers, numbers, numbers. If you haven't measured, now's the time (past time, actually).

I sure you didn't do what so many do, ASSUME. Assume that "this" is okay and assume "that" is okay, not cleaning, measuring, examining, testing, etc.

Jake

 

236/244; .555/576 lift; 112 LSA in a rebuilt 350, rebuilt oil pump, thiner headgaskets, stock 7.200 hardened pushrods (might need a tad bit smaller pushrods) Those springs are suppose to be good for .600 lift
Crane Dbl Valve Springs (145 lbs seat and 370 lbs open)
rr have been adj. correctly that isn't what is in question.

nothing seems out of the ordinary besides stock pushrods w/ ls7 lifters. What exactly are you asking to know?

 

If your block has been decked, heads milled, or you are running a different headgasket, these would be indicators that you need to measure for your NEW pushrods. I had a tiny amount taken off my block and ran the impy gaskets, I had to get new push rods for that.

 

You're now guessing. Considering changing cams, changing to "smaller" (Not sure what that means) pushrods, asking for different spring recommendations.

Instead, you must first measure, examine, check clearances, verify preload adjustment is correct, etc. Not merely jumping to changing parts without first checking to verify the need for the change.

I prefer specifics and details, not general statements that leave a LOT to be desired. If you don't know, find out. Ask who has been screwing on the engine to tell you what they did and how - Details and Specifics.

Post all the cam specs. Check it for damaged lobes.

I'm running the same valve spring kit the 10308-1 since 2006 with an XFI cam and stock length pushrods (determined to to be he correct length after careful measuring using an adjustable pushrod length checker and magic marker).

Although my setup cannot be directly compared to yours (as already written, differences in your engine may call for a different length pushrod than mine) but it does tell me that if everything is done correctly, that combo WORKS. I'm running 1.7s.

So it seems obvious to me that you're doing something wrong or over-looking something entirely.

So a few of my questions are:

Were the lifters cleaned of any shipping/storage grease and oiled before being installed in the engine? CompCams specifically cautions that all grease must be removed and the new lifters oiled (NOT pumped up) before being installed.

What procedure was used (if any) to determine the correct pushrod length? What was the step-by-step procedure used?

Were pushrod clearances checked? Pushrod to block; pushrod to heads; pushrod to guide plates (for NSA rockers), etc.

Were the springs installed correctly and checked for installed height and coil bind?

Were the rockers checked for retainer clearance?

Were the retainers checked for valve stem seal clearance and valve guide clearance?

What method was used to set the lifter preload? Are you SURE the lifter was riding on the base circle of the cam lobe when ZERO lash was found?

Were the lifter plungers bottomed out when the preload was set?

Did you check for signs of wear on the pushrods and rocker arms?

Are the rocker arms hitting and binding against the underside of the valve covers? Any witness marks there?

Bottom line is there are a lot of things that have to be checked and measured to determine the correct valve train geometry. It's something you MUST DO! Merely changing parts, without checking first, is just a waste of time and money.

Hope this helps.

Jake

 

Told ya!
You cant just throw **** in there, that has not worked in the past and it wont work in the future....

 

Holy terrible idea.

Have the "builder" do his job and measure the damn size needed.