@ hotcam. 
LT1 Rebuild, On a Budget??? Need help...
LT1 Rebuild, On a Budget??? Need help... Ok, So right now I have a 1996 Firebird Formula M6 with 159,xx miles... All i have so far is a GMMG Catback, short shifter, and a K&N CAI is in the mail... I plan on Longtube headers with ORY pipe (that will prob be all of my bolt on modifications)....
I would like to rebuild the motor to be a healthy, reliable motor, that will last a while, and can handle the power of a Hotcam. ( I really dont want to hear about "You should get another cam, etc...", because i've done my research and that is the cam i want...
Anyways,
Should i just replace pistons, bearings, etc.... or buy the whole kit from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...n/?prefilter=0 (Forged Pistons add $100)....
My goals are to have atleast 350rwhp after rebuild with bolt on's listed above, hot cam, and port and polish on stock heads... I would like to spend less than $1500 on the rebuild and machine work (Not including bolt on's, cam, or port/polish)....
What route should i take now that you know my goals/budget?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
I would like to rebuild the motor to be a healthy, reliable motor, that will last a while, and can handle the power of a Hotcam. ( I really dont want to hear about "You should get another cam, etc...", because i've done my research and that is the cam i want...
Anyways,
Should i just replace pistons, bearings, etc.... or buy the whole kit from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...n/?prefilter=0 (Forged Pistons add $100)....
My goals are to have atleast 350rwhp after rebuild with bolt on's listed above, hot cam, and port and polish on stock heads... I would like to spend less than $1500 on the rebuild and machine work (Not including bolt on's, cam, or port/polish)....
What route should i take now that you know my goals/budget?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
unless its knocking, smoking, low on oil pressure, or leaking all over the driveway, i probably wouldnt worry about rebuilding it.
if i did rebuild it, i would probably check the pistons/bores and consider leaving everything stock. just have the block honed/cleaned, and put new cam bearings in. then replace all the other bearings and rings. reassemble.
if i did rebuild it, i would probably check the pistons/bores and consider leaving everything stock. just have the block honed/cleaned, and put new cam bearings in. then replace all the other bearings and rings. reassemble.
Buy a compression tester and see what kind of cylinder pressure is generated. More than likely it is fine and a rebuild is not necessary. What exactly are you looking for performance wise? Are you wanting something more for street or strip?
I'm looking more for street power, but i need reliability because it is my DD... 350-400 rwhp?
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The LE2 package is more than your total budget even without buying all the other stuff you would need. Really a stupid response to your question.
I will second the comments about "don't fix what aint broke". With that kind of budget you will endup with a shortblock that is a step backwards from stock. The stock motor is actually pretty darn good. If there are no known problems go ahead and cam it and enjoy.
I will second the comments about "don't fix what aint broke". With that kind of budget you will endup with a shortblock that is a step backwards from stock. The stock motor is actually pretty darn good. If there are no known problems go ahead and cam it and enjoy.
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I think it sounds good. I too want a hotcam, I have no need for a big cam. You may want to look at cc503. I think you could DD that and it would get you closer to your hp goal.
or you could throw on some LT and the Hotcam without the rebuild and have some $ left over.
or you could throw on some LT and the Hotcam without the rebuild and have some $ left over.
TECH Regular
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
From: Kempner, TX
Ok, So right now I have a 1996 Firebird Formula M6 with 159,xx miles... All i have so far is a GMMG Catback, short shifter, and a K&N CAI is in the mail... I plan on Longtube headers with ORY pipe (that will prob be all of my bolt on modifications)....
I would like to rebuild the motor to be a healthy, reliable motor, that will last a while, and can handle the power of a Hotcam. ( I really dont want to hear about "You should get another cam, etc...", because i've done my research and that is the cam i want...
Anyways,
Should i just replace pistons, bearings, etc.... or buy the whole kit from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...n/?prefilter=0 (Forged Pistons add $100)....
My goals are to have atleast 350rwhp after rebuild with bolt on's listed above, hot cam, and port and polish on stock heads... I would like to spend less than $1500 on the rebuild and machine work (Not including bolt on's, cam, or port/polish)....
What route should i take now that you know my goals/budget?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
I would like to rebuild the motor to be a healthy, reliable motor, that will last a while, and can handle the power of a Hotcam. ( I really dont want to hear about "You should get another cam, etc...", because i've done my research and that is the cam i want...
Anyways,
Should i just replace pistons, bearings, etc.... or buy the whole kit from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/FE...n/?prefilter=0 (Forged Pistons add $100)....
My goals are to have atleast 350rwhp after rebuild with bolt on's listed above, hot cam, and port and polish on stock heads... I would like to spend less than $1500 on the rebuild and machine work (Not including bolt on's, cam, or port/polish)....
What route should i take now that you know my goals/budget?
Thanks in advance,
Kyle
The kit comes with .010" under bearings, so you'd be looking at having the crank turned if you go the kit way.
I'm not a fan of thin piston rings on a street engine and DEFINITELY NOT LOW TENSION oil rings. Even though the claim is they reduce friction and allow more power, I just don't like them on a DD. In that application, I prefer 5/64th rings; 5/64", 5/64", 3/16" (standard tension, SS50U). Thicker rings help stabilize the pistons in the bores too.
The stock rod bolts are what gives me the most concern, so if I was doing this, ARP rod bolts would DEFINITELY be at the top of my list. Of course now we're talking about having the rods re-sized too.
"Kits" work for some guys but whenever I considered getting one I went part by part and found out I'd always end up with parts I didn't want or need. For example, if I prefer a particular head gasket I'd find DIFFERENT ones included in the kit, etc. So I always ended up buying my parts individually. Hyperuetectic pistons are another example. Kits just don't work for me.
I'd definitely concentrate on close tolerance machine work to nail the bearing clearances, piston to wall/hone, align honed mains, individually setting ring end gaps, decking and balancing.
"( I really dont want to hear about "You should get another cam, etc...", because i've done my research and that is the cam i want..." Don't worry about that. Everytime I post something similar guys ignore my wishes too.
Recently, I CLOSED a thread I started when it got so out of hand with guys telling me what I should and shouldn't do. This was immediately after I pleaded with them NOT TO. Made me so frustrated I just CLOSED the thread.
Jake
Just to highlight JAKEJR's raging ignorance and 1970s thinking he is recommending a ring pack THICKER than stock.
If GM can put LT1s together with target service lives all the way up to 300K for the cop car Caprice which has the same exact shortblock as a Camaro I don't see how "bad" a "thin" ring pack can be.
He read some books written in the stone age of "performance" and thinks that means he has the vaguest of clues, he is wrong.
If GM can put LT1s together with target service lives all the way up to 300K for the cop car Caprice which has the same exact shortblock as a Camaro I don't see how "bad" a "thin" ring pack can be.
He read some books written in the stone age of "performance" and thinks that means he has the vaguest of clues, he is wrong.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: pottsville
is there any reason to be a jerk off about someones opinion? he recommended what he would do and everyone is entitles to their opinion even people like you.To the op the hotcam is a good cam,even though it doesnt provide the most hp it is a very street friendly cam with a nice idle.I honestly wouldnt go much bigger than a hotcam anyway with a stock bottom end with 159k.it should make power to around 6k which IMO would not be great idea to spin it any higher than that.there are alot of choices just research and pick one that meets your needs even if no one else is crazy about it. also as far as a rebuild your factory rods and crank will be fine,i would just replace pistons,bearings and arp bolts if your budjet allows.i just had the shortblock rebuilt in my car and it cost 1700. for disassembly,assembly,parts and machine work.i used hypereutitec pistons with arp rod bolts.
Last edited by LT1-TA; Nov 7, 2010 at 09:24 PM.
I was thinkin of maybe doing the LE1 package with the "largest emissions friendly cam" Lloyd offers? He says it compares to the Hotcam, and I read on another forum it is a lot like the hot cam but it puts out 15-20 rwhp MORE than the hot cam. Let's say I already had full bolt ons [CAI, LT's, ORY, catback], would I need anything else to install the LE1 package or does it come with everything needed for install? My car is a M6 so I won't need a stall.
Thanks,
Kyle
Thanks,
Kyle
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: pottsville
should have your intake ported to match and of course gaskets.I would recommend roller rockers also,i used arp rocker studs and head bolts when i put mine together,they are optional but recommended.you will need a tune shortly after and depending on the cam possibly bigger injectors.
When opinions are bad they NEED to be confronted. You guys are steering this guy straight to failure, grossly overshooting his budget, telling him to waste money on completely unnecessary stuff.
On The Tree
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: pottsville
intake doesnt need to be ported but while its off it should be matched to the heads IMO.i installed the hotcam kit on my car but that was only because i already had it laying around from a carbed lt1 that i dropped into a 3rd gen.comp does make excellent rockers but they are pricey.i was going to put a cc503 in but since i had the hotcam i decided to run it because the springs for the comp cam were like 170. ish plus you had to buy their locks and retainers which were another 50.ish and with the strong spring pressure from the comp springs i would not have been comfortable with stock push rods so things just were getting more expensive than it was worth to me.the hotcam is nothing more than a stock cam on steroids,it is only .492 lift and the duration is nothing crazy but it has a nice idle and will make power to 6k which is were i decided to build my motor to be safe to.i built a mild street car that is fun to drive and can meet my needs.