LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

LT1 Rebuild, On a Budget??? Need help...

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Old 11-29-2010, 07:25 PM
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I would keep the 65K motor complete and send the heads from your old engine to be done later. They will be completely redone then, so being higher milege won't hurt. Also, you will save the cost of head gaskets and intake gaskets now. Plus you will just avoid alot of other issues.

Good find though. I wish I could come across a running complete LT1 with low miles for $500 somewhere near me.
Old 11-30-2010, 02:51 AM
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So you recommend buying the engine, swapping the accessories over (along with all new gaskets) and dropping it in with Bolt on's... And wait and do my Heads/Cam at the same?
Old 11-30-2010, 05:24 AM
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IF the motor looks clean, dry, and you are personally sure about the milege and condition I would only replace a few gaskets such as the rear main seal, water pump gaskets (keep that opti dry) and valve cover gaskets. Maybe the oil pan gasket if you want to sneak a peak at the condition of the bottom end while it's out. Do the water pump weep hole mod while you have it out too. You won't regret it.
Old 11-30-2010, 06:06 PM
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What's the weep hole mod?
Old 11-30-2010, 07:46 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedFreak123
What's the weep hole mod?
It's where you tap the weep hole in the bottom of the water pump housing and fit it with a brass pipe nipple, then you run a short length of hose (usually vac line) down and away from your opti-spark. That way if (when?) your water pump fails, the coolant that spews from the weep hole will not destroy your distributor. Cheap Insurance!!!
Old 11-30-2010, 10:37 PM
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So now the guy sold the motor. I have a question. Will a Buick roadmater engine work if I put my stock aluminum heads of my firebird on it and replace the cam with a LE custom grind
Old 12-01-2010, 06:50 AM
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If you really are looking to do a budget build do what I did. Get your stock cam reground to any spec you'd like. Buy vs2700 springs, new valve seals, get your heads checked for flatness. New timing chain. Don't get sprockets unless teeth look worn. New felpro head gaskets and head bolts. You should still be well under 1000. Use the leftover money to put into the bottom end. Forged is heavy, so if you're only wanting 350-400 don't get forged pistons. My car probably has 340whp. Some may say I went cheap, but my set up works!
Old 12-01-2010, 03:46 PM
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I already have the whole cam swap (and support valve train) priced out for around $800. The problem is, the bottom end.

I was thinking of buying a rebuild kit, but then i have to take my motor out, remove accessories, take it to the machine shop, bring it home, put all the internals in it, etc... Too much down time on my car, its my DD.
Old 12-02-2010, 12:45 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedFreak123
I already have the whole cam swap (and support valve train) priced out for around $800.
Care to share this list?
Old 12-03-2010, 02:42 AM
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Well now the guy has sold the motor, so i might just put the Hotcam in my car at 160,xxx miles.

but i was thinking bout going with LE custom grind...

supporting valvetrain:

Howards 98215 single springs
Pro Form 66915 rockers
Trick Flow 21407100 pushrods
Tune!!!

I'd also replace my Waterpump, Distributor/opti, Timing chain, and gaskets.
Old 12-09-2010, 01:49 AM
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I'm thinking of doing the same thing as far as the rebuild but haven't really got any good info. My 95 has 158xx. No oil leaks just smells of fuel. Should I rebuild



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