LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

1st time to the track.

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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 03:50 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by speed_demon24
You couldn't pay me to run moser stuff. Their 12 bolt's have a known problem they refuse to fix and their axles are garbage as well.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eNDjVobCnGk

Although that was a shitty situation, I have had three Moser 12 bolts pass through my hands and there was nothing wrong with any of them. I wouldn't have that opinion of them based on one occurence.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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Seems like strange is the way to go by reading some posts on the site. I'm not putting a rear end in it. I will probably sell it before it needs one.(hopefully)
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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The only downfall to the Moser is the torque arm mounting bracket using 4 short bolts instead of two long ones that go the whole way through. People have problems with them coming loose.

I have always cleaned the threads and bolts with brake cleaner and then used red loctite and torque to 100ft lbs. Mine have NEVER come loose since I started doing this.
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Old Nov 7, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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Your trapping WAYYY low for those mods, I trapped 109 with just my mods in sig with a 2.0 60', you should be around 111 at least and running around 12.7. Sell the shortys, use the money to get uncoated LTs and a cutout. 224/230 cam is fine, should be shifting around 6300, and get a B&M or hurst or pro 5.0 shifter and powershift the **** out of it with your foot on the floor.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 03:43 PM
  #65  
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Why the uncoated lt's? Not worth the money??
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 05:10 PM
  #66  
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cheaper and who cares what under you hood looks like your paying for performance not looks right? I have a pair of bad looking hooker super comps picked up .4 with them on a stock car.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 06:03 PM
  #67  
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K I might think about pulling the shorties off and buying longtubes this winter.
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Old Nov 8, 2010 | 06:11 PM
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will wake it up BIG time do a true dual system with an X pipe as well cuts out a bend over the axial which robs hp
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 12:17 PM
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uncoated because they are cheap and still come with a 2 1/2 year warranty. ive had mine for 3 years and my car has never seen a garage and rarely a wash and drives through wv and ct winters with salty roads and they still arnt rusted through. no need for a $300 true dual system, a $30 cutout will do the same thing, and you can manually put the cap back on it when you want to take a nice quiet cruise.
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Old Nov 9, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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For the first time to the track and on street tires I think you did great. DR's and seat time are gonna put you in the 12's I bet. I doubt race fuel will help you any. You could pour in a bottle of good octane boost and check to see if it helps? I've seen alot of street cars lose power going from 93 to race fuel due to the slower burn rate.

I have 4.10's in my stock rear, but they were already installed when I got the car. I wouldn't invest a dime in the 10 bolt. Go aftermarket....be it 12 bolt, 9", S60, or a custom 8.8. I'm planning a 8.5" ten bolt with "mini-ladder bar" UCA's that connect to my BMR rectangular tubing LCA's to get around fabbing a TQ arm bracket. I already have a housing set up with a posi and 3.42's that accepts the stock LT1 brakes. I'm wondering if I can retro fit a 3 channel ABS system using parts from a C1500 8.5" rear.

Someone above said at least you went to the track. I think they really called it. I'm kinda afraid to take mine on the ten bolt since it's my daily driver.
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Old Nov 10, 2010 | 08:52 PM
  #71  
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Yeah I Trailered her to the Track in case Somethin Broke. But i Havent Decided What to Do Yet. Im Probably Going to sell It In the Spring and just Get my Vega in the 9's and Hit up Some street Races with it.
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