brngrhd

Is the LT block any stronger then the normal 1st gen blocks? I ask since i have an LT motor and a normal 1st gen and a set of turbo headers

brngrhd

43 views and no one knows which block is stronger a 1st or 2nd gen?

LT1

iTrader: (1)

LT1 blocks and SBC 350 blocks are both cast iron. Not a lot to say really. Both blocks have made over 1000hp.

LT1-TA

block is the least of your worries unless your trying to make ridiculous hp,its the rotating assembly thats needs upgrading if your going to push alot of boost.

brngrhd

the thing has an eagle assembly in it now. and no not a lot of boost if it made an honest 750-800CHP im good.

brngrhd

this is not really true there are good SBC good BBC and bad to both..... yeah they are all castiron but what is the nickel content? so i guess that is why i asked.

gregrob

iTrader: (8)

Forged or cast?

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I hope it's not cast.

LT1

iTrader: (1)

Never looked up nickel content on them, but i have read and came across both blocks being able to make lots of HP.

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

first gen 350s..good ones 900hp on juice 1000k on boost max is what i have seen in real world.preped block

lt1s most ive heard of is 1278rwhp which is about 1400hp on a prepped block for boost and over 1k on juice

bbc 1400hp on juice over 1800 on boost of course prepped..for bost ive heard of guys just straping the main caps on a 4blt doing studs and pushing 1200-1400hp on juice..

cast cranks are fun to..most dont even make the power to break them and end up going forged.

sbc gen 1 i did 750 to stock rods and crank with rod bolts and heard of 850 or so on stock crank

bbc over 1k on stock crank an rods with rod bolts

ls1 crank 1400hp

lt1 im not sure but i would figure there good for 800 850 on juice..boost will get you some more..

remember though using stock cranks and rods your on borrowed time,,

as for stock first gen 350 blocks you wanted the 010s that had 30 30 on them..meaning 20% nickel and 20% tin if i remember right.

400 you want 511 block castings but core shift is what will kill you when using these blocks..

dont forget ones you factor in block work and stuff alot of times your only a couple hundo out from having a dart block or having a bowtie block with cash in your pocket.

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I have one of the 010 blocks in a C-10, 4 bolt mains and many of the heads they put on them are fairly resistant to overheating since they aren't the thin junk that they put on the emission motors.

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

yes the 397010 blocks are nice..its 020 an 020 under the timing cover also..sorry for the miss print i was in a rush..as for heads them blocks where made from 68-72 i think..which alot got the old camel hump heads..funny part is them guys in the pro stock days an such would make 600hp with hi reving 327s,solid lifter cam,2 660 carbs an a tune ram..

draggin97s10

iTrader: (2)

you always look for 010 that means high nickle content

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

1,000,000hp?!

suicidal racing

iTrader: (14)

lol yeah..gm made a ninja,god,chuck norris block at 1 point..

brngrhd

it is a forged rotating assembly...

suicidal thanks for the info

brngrhd

found out it is two bolt block so i hope it holds up to 100-150 shot on top of the 600 it probably makes now


383
13:1 srp pistons
AFR 210 heads
eagle H beams
eagle forged crank
ARP rod bolts and main bolts
comp cams solid roller

valve lift .651I .631E
duration 265I 273E @ .050
LSA 110

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

You didn't have splayed billet caps installed or did you buy the engine already assembled?

brngrhd

traded kind of bought..... but as is I only have 1200 in it sooooo

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The LT1 blocks used the same casting for 2-bolt and 4, the difference was machining.

At the level you think you are at I would want aftermarket caps.

I don't think it is making the NA power you hope it does though.