Clayton Racing Engines
Clayton Racing Engines I heard about Clayton Racing Engines on here and have been talking to Corey. I was wondering if anybody on here has any experience with them. Corey has been great and answered all of my questions so as long as nobody has anything negative to say about them then I will be going with them to do a budget 355 or 383 shortblock. Before everybody jumps on my back about doing the 383 it will be the same price as the 355. The plan is to do Scat cast crank, Scat pro comp I beams, mahle forged pistons, and splayed 4 bolt mains.
I wouldn't use an aftermarket cast crank if it were the last crank in the world. I personally never dealt with them, but there will always be someone out there not satisfied. You shouldn't base your decision solely on what you hear on the interwebs. Overall, they look pretty stout and sponsor the LTX Shhoutout! Can't go wrong there! I will probably be purchasing a shortblock from them pretty soon.
Well before you make a mistake dont buy a scat or eagle crank. They are the only 2 ive heard about breaking before. Next, why you you run a cast crank with a 4 bolt main? And with the piston and rods choices your really making the crank the weak link in the bottom end.
Run the stock crank and do a 355 with forged pistons/rods and ARP main studs. Or go with forged crank and do the 383 with the same stuff.
I would also consider doing the 4 bolt, forged everything, and run a h beam instead of i beam rod.
Run the stock crank and do a 355 with forged pistons/rods and ARP main studs. Or go with forged crank and do the 383 with the same stuff.
I would also consider doing the 4 bolt, forged everything, and run a h beam instead of i beam rod.
Ok here is the motor i will be doing if i go 383:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Here is the same motor with the forged crank:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Thats a $1000 difference. Thats why I'm going with the cast crank.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Here is the same motor with the forged crank:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Thats a $1000 difference. Thats why I'm going with the cast crank.
The stock crank is stronger than aftermarket cast cranks. If you can't afford a forged crank reuse the stocker.
Studded 2-bolt would be another way to save money but still have adequate strength.
Studded 2-bolt would be another way to save money but still have adequate strength.
Teching In
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
I wouldn't use an aftermarket cast crank if it were the last crank in the world. I personally never dealt with them, but there will always be someone out there not satisfied. You shouldn't base your decision solely on what you hear on the interwebs. Overall, they look pretty stout and sponsor the LTX Shhoutout! Can't go wrong there! I will probably be purchasing a shortblock from them pretty soon.
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Yea I have always heard that the stock cast crank is really strong...I haven't heard of any breaking either...
FWIW I have also seen a Eagle cast crank go 10.50s on a 225 rwhp shot a bunch of time and is still running.... its a 383 with a stalled th350
FWIW I have also seen a Eagle cast crank go 10.50s on a 225 rwhp shot a bunch of time and is still running.... its a 383 with a stalled th350
Ok here is the motor i will be doing if i go 383:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Here is the same motor with the forged crank:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Thats a $1000 difference. Thats why I'm going with the cast crank.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Here is the same motor with the forged crank:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Thats a $1000 difference. Thats why I'm going with the cast crank.
Thats the chance you take if you go cast man. If you want to gamble 2000 bucks that the cast wont break then go right ahead and buy it. No one on here is your Momma or your Pappa. For a grand more you get a piece of mind and you have a platform that you can build on down the road even if you have 100k miles on it. With cast you are limited to N/A only and the silent killer of these cranks isn't horse power in the end it's TORQUE. and thats what a 383 is all about. A Cast crank in a 383 has been a NO NO for more than 30 years. I hung around a lot of engine shops in north GA when I was young and I can't tell you how many times guys would come in trying to keep cost down on an engine and the builders would tell them to go find another builder. Today engine guys don't really care that much because they know you will be back looking for another and thats money in their pocket. You would be better of having them build you a 355 with a stock crank and then doing a AI or LE top end either now or down the road. Then you can at least spray it or do light boost on it. stock cranks have been good to 600 where as most guys that push anything close to or just over 500 on the cast stuff end up BLOWED UP. research the different types. Stocks are nodular iron. if you read into it and understand what cast is V's the Nodular iron you will think twice. Some of these guys have learned the hard way or shall we say the expensive way.
Most of the positive Eagle cast crank stories you hear are about OLDER cranks. The new ones seem to be pretty fragile and Scat does seem to be better than Eagle despite the likelyhood they use the same casting and just machine them differently.
Just this summer someone posted pictures of the metallic gravel they ended up with from a cast aftermarket crank failure. Such a thing is likely to do damage to a LOT more than the crank, will lose a couple rods at least and head damage is even likely. There are folks who have ended up with nothing left in good shape but the intake.
Just this summer someone posted pictures of the metallic gravel they ended up with from a cast aftermarket crank failure. Such a thing is likely to do damage to a LOT more than the crank, will lose a couple rods at least and head damage is even likely. There are folks who have ended up with nothing left in good shape but the intake.
Ok the 3k on a full forged shortblock isnt much of an option unless i just slap stock heads with 145k miles on them onto the shortblock. I will be able to check the springs and see how bad they are and mill the heads myself but i wont be able to do the seats or have the money for springs, retainers, locks, etc... The car wont be getting a cam til later anyway so ill have to see where my springs are and then go from there. Will this be worth doing for now and in long run?
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
Likes: 28
A turned crank will run you $125 -$150
new bearings $85ish
gaskets $125-$150
1 day for assembly. Save your coin for later when you can build the bottom end EXACTLY how you want to.
Most of us started out modding cars and trying to "save money" while doing it. Most of us also learned along the way it is cheapest to do it once and do it right. Always aim for some margin of overkill, always plan on spending far less than the actual budget you have to work with.
If you need a single replacement rod/piston to replace a spun bearing rod speak up, a number of us have them laying around. I know a few times I have sold a rod/piston combo for like $25 shipped, not to make a buck but to help someone get their car back on the road cheap.
If you need a single replacement rod/piston to replace a spun bearing rod speak up, a number of us have them laying around. I know a few times I have sold a rod/piston combo for like $25 shipped, not to make a buck but to help someone get their car back on the road cheap.
Yeah i think i might just keep stock bottom end for now the budget isnt there for the full forged bottom end so im going to start getting quotes on getting my crank ground and ill just order some new bearings for it then see what i have left for the topend. Does this sound like a better plan to you guys? Maybe i could even throw some arp bolts at the stock rods and mains
