killerz97

iTrader: (1)

I heard about Clayton Racing Engines on here and have been talking to Corey. I was wondering if anybody on here has any experience with them. Corey has been great and answered all of my questions so as long as nobody has anything negative to say about them then I will be going with them to do a budget 355 or 383 shortblock. Before everybody jumps on my back about doing the 383 it will be the same price as the 355. The plan is to do Scat cast crank, Scat pro comp I beams, mahle forged pistons, and splayed 4 bolt mains.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

I wouldn't use an aftermarket cast crank if it were the last crank in the world. I personally never dealt with them, but there will always be someone out there not satisfied. You shouldn't base your decision solely on what you hear on the interwebs. Overall, they look pretty stout and sponsor the LTX Shhoutout! Can't go wrong there! I will probably be purchasing a shortblock from them pretty soon.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

Well before you make a mistake dont buy a scat or eagle crank. They are the only 2 ive heard about breaking before. Next, why you you run a cast crank with a 4 bolt main? And with the piston and rods choices your really making the crank the weak link in the bottom end.

Run the stock crank and do a 355 with forged pistons/rods and ARP main studs. Or go with forged crank and do the 383 with the same stuff.

I would also consider doing the 4 bolt, forged everything, and run a h beam instead of i beam rod.

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

Here is some good readings for ya..

https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...ortblocks.html

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Ok here is the motor i will be doing if i go 383:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories
Here is the same motor with the forged crank:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SBC-3...Q5fAccessories

Thats a $1000 difference. Thats why I'm going with the cast crank.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

The stock crank is stronger than aftermarket cast cranks. If you can't afford a forged crank reuse the stocker.

Studded 2-bolt would be another way to save money but still have adequate strength.

chassisbldr

^^^ This ! I just got done replacing a broken cast scat for a customer at the shop. I would rather spend the extra grand upfront and not have to pull the motor again when the crank fails and ruins the block!

Money1

2 bolt mains are good for well over 500 RWhp.Waste of money

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Yea I have always heard that the stock cast crank is really strong...I haven't heard of any breaking either...

FWIW I have also seen a Eagle cast crank go 10.50s on a 225 rwhp shot a bunch of time and is still running.... its a 383 with a stalled th350

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

Thats the chance you take if you go cast man. If you want to gamble 2000 bucks that the cast wont break then go right ahead and buy it. No one on here is your Momma or your Pappa. For a grand more you get a piece of mind and you have a platform that you can build on down the road even if you have 100k miles on it. With cast you are limited to N/A only and the silent killer of these cranks isn't horse power in the end it's TORQUE. and thats what a 383 is all about. A Cast crank in a 383 has been a NO NO for more than 30 years. I hung around a lot of engine shops in north GA when I was young and I can't tell you how many times guys would come in trying to keep cost down on an engine and the builders would tell them to go find another builder. Today engine guys don't really care that much because they know you will be back looking for another and thats money in their pocket. You would be better of having them build you a 355 with a stock crank and then doing a AI or LE top end either now or down the road. Then you can at least spray it or do light boost on it. stock cranks have been good to 600 where as most guys that push anything close to or just over 500 on the cast stuff end up BLOWED UP. research the different types. Stocks are nodular iron. if you read into it and understand what cast is V's the Nodular iron you will think twice. Some of these guys have learned the hard way or shall we say the expensive way.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Most of the positive Eagle cast crank stories you hear are about OLDER cranks. The new ones seem to be pretty fragile and Scat does seem to be better than Eagle despite the likelyhood they use the same casting and just machine them differently.

Just this summer someone posted pictures of the metallic gravel they ended up with from a cast aftermarket crank failure. Such a thing is likely to do damage to a LOT more than the crank, will lose a couple rods at least and head damage is even likely. There are folks who have ended up with nothing left in good shape but the intake.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Ok the 3k on a full forged shortblock isnt much of an option unless i just slap stock heads with 145k miles on them onto the shortblock. I will be able to check the springs and see how bad they are and mill the heads myself but i wont be able to do the seats or have the money for springs, retainers, locks, etc... The car wont be getting a cam til later anyway so ill have to see where my springs are and then go from there. Will this be worth doing for now and in long run?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

IMO, it's only worth doing if you have the coin to do it RIGHT. If you can't afford it, wait. Trust me.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Well the cars doing me any good right now with a spun rod bearing so it has to get done. Its not a matter of rebuilding it or not.

joelster

If that is all that is wrong with it, take a solid day and yank the motor out. Take it apart on a stand, take the crank to the machine shop and have them check it out. Most likely it will need to be turned .010". Have the rod that spun looked at to see if it's ok. Most likely it will be fine.

A turned crank will run you $125 -$150
new bearings $85ish
gaskets $125-$150

1 day for assembly. Save your coin for later when you can build the bottom end EXACTLY how you want to.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Idk i might be able to do that and then do my topend or something too.

1badzee

iTrader: (12)

^ Better idea IMO. Get the bottom end freshened up and do a heads/cam combo. You will be much happier.

97camaro383

iTrader: (31)

This is what a cast crank will get you

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

Most of us started out modding cars and trying to "save money" while doing it. Most of us also learned along the way it is cheapest to do it once and do it right. Always aim for some margin of overkill, always plan on spending far less than the actual budget you have to work with.

If you need a single replacement rod/piston to replace a spun bearing rod speak up, a number of us have them laying around. I know a few times I have sold a rod/piston combo for like $25 shipped, not to make a buck but to help someone get their car back on the road cheap.

killerz97

iTrader: (1)

Yeah i think i might just keep stock bottom end for now the budget isnt there for the full forged bottom end so im going to start getting quotes on getting my crank ground and ill just order some new bearings for it then see what i have left for the topend. Does this sound like a better plan to you guys? Maybe i could even throw some arp bolts at the stock rods and mains