94 lt1 ported heads/cam bolt on's tune and no power!! HELP
#1
94 lt1 ported heads/cam bolt on's tune and no power!! HELP
I hope that you guys can help me with my 1994 z28 M6.
I got the car stock with about 125k miles in good running condition. I decided to built it a little my goal was about 360 RWHP so about 410hp at the crank.
I got the block and heads rebuild by local machine shop (DBA s california)
Block got new bearings(main,rod,cam), new piston ring and oil pump (35% more volume)
Stock heads got port and polish, 3 angle valve job, resurfaced shaved performance spring supporting up to .600 lift
I used .026 head gasket to rise compression a little
I got performance camshaft:
intake lift .510 exhaust .520
intakke/exhaust duration is 230/236 110LSA
On top of that I got 52mm tb, Bosch 36p injectors,BBK short tube heades with off road Y pipe and flowmaster, MSD coil and cables, tr5 plugs. All that was tuned by SALMON.
After I installed the engine I was breaking it in I did thermal breakdown, 30-50mph pulls, drove it 150miles new oil etc. Now the car is not as fast as it should be after all the work done to it( it's same fast as stock lt1 with no cat) besides that it does have problem to start cold/warm I have to crank it 2-3 times to start it. I was searching the forums, I found out about knock sensor and module. I disable the Knock sensor so it is not retarding my timing (I used the resistor) I got few gallons of 100 octane racing fuel, still same thing. It still have a lot of power missing, may be it has something to do with hard starts. What you guys think I spend all my money to make it run good and fast, and it feels like maybe 250hp out of 400hp that it should have. Any ideas?
I got the car stock with about 125k miles in good running condition. I decided to built it a little my goal was about 360 RWHP so about 410hp at the crank.
I got the block and heads rebuild by local machine shop (DBA s california)
Block got new bearings(main,rod,cam), new piston ring and oil pump (35% more volume)
Stock heads got port and polish, 3 angle valve job, resurfaced shaved performance spring supporting up to .600 lift
I used .026 head gasket to rise compression a little
I got performance camshaft:
intake lift .510 exhaust .520
intakke/exhaust duration is 230/236 110LSA
On top of that I got 52mm tb, Bosch 36p injectors,BBK short tube heades with off road Y pipe and flowmaster, MSD coil and cables, tr5 plugs. All that was tuned by SALMON.
After I installed the engine I was breaking it in I did thermal breakdown, 30-50mph pulls, drove it 150miles new oil etc. Now the car is not as fast as it should be after all the work done to it( it's same fast as stock lt1 with no cat) besides that it does have problem to start cold/warm I have to crank it 2-3 times to start it. I was searching the forums, I found out about knock sensor and module. I disable the Knock sensor so it is not retarding my timing (I used the resistor) I got few gallons of 100 octane racing fuel, still same thing. It still have a lot of power missing, may be it has something to do with hard starts. What you guys think I spend all my money to make it run good and fast, and it feels like maybe 250hp out of 400hp that it should have. Any ideas?
#2
I hope that you guys can help me with my 1994 z28 M6.
I got the car stock with about 125k miles in good running condition. I decided to built it a little my goal was about 360 RWHP so about 410hp at the crank.
I got the block and heads rebuild by local machine shop (DBA s california)
Block got new bearings(main,rod,cam), new piston ring and oil pump (35% more volume)
Stock heads got port and polish, 3 angle valve job, resurfaced shaved performance spring supporting up to .600 lift
I used .026 head gasket to rise compression a little
I got performance camshaft:
intake lift .510 exhaust .520
intakke/exhaust duration is 230/236 110LSA
On top of that I got 52mm tb, Bosch 36p injectors,BBK short tube heades with off road Y pipe and flowmaster, MSD coil and cables, tr5 plugs. All that was tuned by SALMON.
After I installed the engine I was breaking it in I did thermal breakdown, 30-50mph pulls, drove it 150miles new oil etc. Now the car is not as fast as it should be after all the work done to it( it's same fast as stock lt1 with no cat) besides that it does have problem to start cold/warm I have to crank it 2-3 times to start it. I was searching the forums, I found out about knock sensor and module. I disable the Knock sensor so it is not retarding my timing (I used the resistor) I got few gallons of 100 octane racing fuel, still same thing. It still have a lot of power missing, may be it has something to do with hard starts. What you guys think I spend all my money to make it run good and fast, and it feels like maybe 250hp out of 400hp that it should have. Any ideas?
I got the car stock with about 125k miles in good running condition. I decided to built it a little my goal was about 360 RWHP so about 410hp at the crank.
I got the block and heads rebuild by local machine shop (DBA s california)
Block got new bearings(main,rod,cam), new piston ring and oil pump (35% more volume)
Stock heads got port and polish, 3 angle valve job, resurfaced shaved performance spring supporting up to .600 lift
I used .026 head gasket to rise compression a little
I got performance camshaft:
intake lift .510 exhaust .520
intakke/exhaust duration is 230/236 110LSA
On top of that I got 52mm tb, Bosch 36p injectors,BBK short tube heades with off road Y pipe and flowmaster, MSD coil and cables, tr5 plugs. All that was tuned by SALMON.
After I installed the engine I was breaking it in I did thermal breakdown, 30-50mph pulls, drove it 150miles new oil etc. Now the car is not as fast as it should be after all the work done to it( it's same fast as stock lt1 with no cat) besides that it does have problem to start cold/warm I have to crank it 2-3 times to start it. I was searching the forums, I found out about knock sensor and module. I disable the Knock sensor so it is not retarding my timing (I used the resistor) I got few gallons of 100 octane racing fuel, still same thing. It still have a lot of power missing, may be it has something to do with hard starts. What you guys think I spend all my money to make it run good and fast, and it feels like maybe 250hp out of 400hp that it should have. Any ideas?
Without data logging it any guesses would be a shot in the dark.
#5
I after it starts it runs smooth. I will check fuel pressure tomorrow it should be 42,5 psi at idle with fpr vacuum unplugged that what salmon (mail tune) sad. I got those injectors used for 90$ Is it possible that bad injectors can affect performance so bad?? I was driving the car 5 min ago on wet street and it can't even spin the wheels in 2nd gear going 30mph and wot! I noticed that when I turn the key 2-3 times on ignition on and off then it stars with no problem.
Trending Topics
#8
I installed new fuel filter. I will try to check fuel pressure
I will install my friend ls1 injectors maybe it will help a little
One more question after somebody tune your pcm do you still have to adjust TB to hold the idle. When i first started my car i had to adjust the screw to keep the engine from dying
I will install my friend ls1 injectors maybe it will help a little
One more question after somebody tune your pcm do you still have to adjust TB to hold the idle. When i first started my car i had to adjust the screw to keep the engine from dying
#9
"From that build sheet I'm guessing your engine builder has no idea what he's doing. You have my condolences.
Oh and throw it on a dyno and post up the chart."
What exactly you have in mind??
For now I am trying to get it run good I am pretty sure that dyno would show less than 200whp
Oh and throw it on a dyno and post up the chart."
What exactly you have in mind??
For now I am trying to get it run good I am pretty sure that dyno would show less than 200whp
#10
TECH Apprentice
The older I get the more convinced I get on how critical it is to either have a select few proven people or progams port your heads or just leave them alone. I'm not 100% sure thats your problem but do a search of guys with underperforming cars and you'll usually see that they had a local no name shop port their heads (not that you did or your shop did a bad job) Also do you know for sure what pistons they used?
#11
Stock they only replaced piston rings, and honed the block. There was no need go over bore. I am pretty sure that it will ne something with fuel, or injectors. Funny think was when I was driving 6th gear at 75mph I hold my foot still but car was accelerating every few minutes and then slowing down. It felt like i would press 50% wot?? I have no idea what could cause it.
#13
TECH Regular
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Kempner, TX
Posts: 420
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Stock they only replaced piston rings, and honed the block. There was no need go over bore. I am pretty sure that it will ne something with fuel, or injectors. Funny think was when I was driving 6th gear at 75mph I hold my foot still but car was accelerating every few minutes and then slowing down. It felt like i would press 50% wot?? I have no idea what could cause it.
Your surging could be caused by a lean A/F ratio. You'd need to, first, verify what your A/F ratio is. If it turns out to be lean, there are a few different ways to correct it.
Jake
#15
Ok I went to my friend mechanic shop to borrow fuel pressure gauge (snap on
This is what I got
43psi@ idle fuel pressure regulator vacuum was connected
50psi@ idle fuel pressure regulator vacuum was disconnected
when i connected the fpr vacuum and open tb pressure rised mabe 3-5 psi up and went down.
Is this how good or not ??
This is what I got
43psi@ idle fuel pressure regulator vacuum was connected
50psi@ idle fuel pressure regulator vacuum was disconnected
when i connected the fpr vacuum and open tb pressure rised mabe 3-5 psi up and went down.
Is this how good or not ??