7/16-20x6 (full thread)
12-06-2010, 07:48 PM
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7/16-20x6 (full thread) Looking for a full thread bolt. Anyone can direct me to someone who carries them it would be great.
Didn't find any in town. Google was not much help.
Didn't find any in town. Google was not much help.
12-06-2010, 08:00 PM
#3
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12-06-2010, 08:55 PM
#8
Get fastenal or any other supply house to order it. Make sure its hardened and get good washers too. Been there and done that with the soft **** and cheap washers and it doesn't work..
You realize regardless of what you hear on the interwebz a dead blow used with only enough force needed to seat the hub is perfectly fine...
You realize regardless of what you hear on the interwebz a dead blow used with only enough force needed to seat the hub is perfectly fine...
12-06-2010, 09:13 PM
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Get fastenal or any other supply house to order it. Make sure its hardened and get good washers too. Been there and done that with the soft **** and cheap washers and it doesn't work..
You realize regardless of what you hear on the interwebz a dead blow used with only enough force needed to seat the hub is perfectly fine...
You realize regardless of what you hear on the interwebz a dead blow used with only enough force needed to seat the hub is perfectly fine...
Trust me that thought has crossed my mind more than once.
Last edited by R3DLT1; 12-06-2010 at 09:19 PM.
12-06-2010, 11:39 PM
#13
You'll find that alot of guys who hammer the hub back on usually won't get it to seat completely against the timing cover, which can cause oil leaks. Using the correct tool is always the better option. You're talking about a LOT of force being placed on the crank snout.
Not saying this is the case with everyone here, but there is an official "right" way to do it. And I find it hilarious that guys who use cost as a way to justify using a hammer can't afford $10 in hardware to do it the cheap way, which is FAR better than taking a hammer to your crank.
Not saying this is the case with everyone here, but there is an official "right" way to do it. And I find it hilarious that guys who use cost as a way to justify using a hammer can't afford $10 in hardware to do it the cheap way, which is FAR better than taking a hammer to your crank.
12-06-2010, 11:47 PM
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You'll find that alot of guys who hammer the hub back on usually won't get it to seat completely against the timing cover, which can cause oil leaks. Using the correct tool is always the better option. You're talking about a LOT of force being placed on the crank snout.
Not saying this is the case with everyone here, but there is an official "right" way to do it. And I find it hilarious that guys who use cost as a way to justify using a hammer can't afford $10 in hardware to do it the cheap way, which is FAR better than taking a hammer to your crank.
Not saying this is the case with everyone here, but there is an official "right" way to do it. And I find it hilarious that guys who use cost as a way to justify using a hammer can't afford $10 in hardware to do it the cheap way, which is FAR better than taking a hammer to your crank.
12-07-2010, 01:21 AM
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Yep, the right tool is the way to go. Have you checked AutoZone, O'Reilly's, Advance, etc., to see if they have a loaner?
Some guys make their own but I just bought one. Has a bearing and the nut which makes installation a piece of cake.
Jake
Some guys make their own but I just bought one. Has a bearing and the nut which makes installation a piece of cake.
Jake
12-07-2010, 03:07 AM
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12-07-2010, 08:22 AM
#20
Original motor I hammered the hub back on all the time, never had any issues. To my knowledge that motor is still out there running strong, got sold at 170k.
Now I actually do use threaded rod, a nut and all that stuff. Works pretty good also, and the jegs hub I just installed went on a hell of a lot easier than the stock one ever did.
Now I actually do use threaded rod, a nut and all that stuff. Works pretty good also, and the jegs hub I just installed went on a hell of a lot easier than the stock one ever did.