what kind of oil should i use
12-13-2010, 11:02 PM
#1
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what kind of oil should i use hey guys i was wondering what kind of oil you guys are running and also what i CAN run.
My car at hot idle has between 7 and 10psi of oil pressure and i know thats not a great thing. So what the thickest oil i can put in my car?
does it have to be synthetic or can i run regular oil?
also i plan on spraying this motor with a 100 shot. Will my car handle it with having low oil pressure?
My car at hot idle has between 7 and 10psi of oil pressure and i know thats not a great thing. So what the thickest oil i can put in my car?
does it have to be synthetic or can i run regular oil?
also i plan on spraying this motor with a 100 shot. Will my car handle it with having low oil pressure?
12-14-2010, 12:05 AM
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are you sure you only have that much oil psi? the stock gauge can be a good bit off.
and as far as GM's spec 10 psi per 1,000 RPM is acceptable. LT1's are notorious for low idle psi. as long as you see ~40 psi driving around it's fine.
anyways, I've run all kinds of oil trying to see what it likes best, M1(high mile/regular) worked, along with Valvoline (high mileage/conventional) and Castrol (edge/GTX). all 10w 30 and I finally am settling on castrol GTX. never let me down in my mustang and seems to have the best PSI for me.
really you can run anything you want just change often and use a good filter K&n Wix M1 napa gold.
and as far as GM's spec 10 psi per 1,000 RPM is acceptable. LT1's are notorious for low idle psi. as long as you see ~40 psi driving around it's fine.
anyways, I've run all kinds of oil trying to see what it likes best, M1(high mile/regular) worked, along with Valvoline (high mileage/conventional) and Castrol (edge/GTX). all 10w 30 and I finally am settling on castrol GTX. never let me down in my mustang and seems to have the best PSI for me.
really you can run anything you want just change often and use a good filter K&n Wix M1 napa gold.
12-14-2010, 01:03 AM
#3
^ yep, just stay away from fram, far away, and if you see a fram filter near you be sure to chuck it as far away as possible if you are required to be in the same area as said filter for more then 5 minutes. they even gave you that nice grippy surface to hold on to for maximum distance.
To me a good filter is better then top of the line oil. Filters effect oil psi just as much.
To me a good filter is better then top of the line oil. Filters effect oil psi just as much.
12-14-2010, 02:11 AM
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Yea i'm sure i have a mechanical gauge installed on the car.
And i does have plenty of pressure when driving around tho. Also i am running the K&N filter.
and thanks for the info on the oil. i will try running straight 30weight and see if it makes any difference.
And i does have plenty of pressure when driving around tho. Also i am running the K&N filter.
and thanks for the info on the oil. i will try running straight 30weight and see if it makes any difference.
12-14-2010, 07:28 AM
#7
^ yep, just stay away from fram, far away, and if you see a fram filter near you be sure to chuck it as far away as possible if you are required to be in the same area as said filter for more then 5 minutes. they even gave you that nice grippy surface to hold on to for maximum distance.
To me a good filter is better then top of the line oil. Filters effect oil psi just as much.
To me a good filter is better then top of the line oil. Filters effect oil psi just as much.
theres nothing old school about a straight weight oil.......straight weight oils have their purpose.......but this isn't one of them lol..........also i'd refrain from those 0 weight oils espically in a motor that wasn't designed for them......
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12-14-2010, 09:31 AM
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10w30 anything if you drive your car mainly in the summer.
5w30 anything if you drive your car in freezing weather as well as warm weather.
I drive my LT1 from April to November to avoid the miserable New York winter, so I run 10w30.
I personally like Mobil1 with an AC Delco filter, but as long as you stick to the main name brands like Mobil1, Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State etc you'll be fine. Heck there's guys out there running conventional Rotella with 150k on the clock with no problems.
If you were wondering, no, Royal Purple is not magical and your car will not run better by switching to RP. If you do decide to go with RP there's nothing qrong with that as its a good oil-- just remember that your motor will run exactly the same as with any other brand because ITS JUST OIL.
If you wanna spend away a lot of money on oil changes, buy Redline or Amsoil, because they actually are superior brands compared to what one would find at Autozone (however, they're completely not necessary for street use).
5w30 anything if you drive your car in freezing weather as well as warm weather.
I drive my LT1 from April to November to avoid the miserable New York winter, so I run 10w30.
I personally like Mobil1 with an AC Delco filter, but as long as you stick to the main name brands like Mobil1, Valvoline, Castrol, Pennzoil, Quaker State etc you'll be fine. Heck there's guys out there running conventional Rotella with 150k on the clock with no problems.
If you were wondering, no, Royal Purple is not magical and your car will not run better by switching to RP. If you do decide to go with RP there's nothing qrong with that as its a good oil-- just remember that your motor will run exactly the same as with any other brand because ITS JUST OIL.
If you wanna spend away a lot of money on oil changes, buy Redline or Amsoil, because they actually are superior brands compared to what one would find at Autozone (however, they're completely not necessary for street use).
12-14-2010, 10:34 AM
#9
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Just as tbag_skywalker said, run 10W30 for the summer months, and what ever you do, please stay away from Pennzoil. From experience of pulling 3 motors apart that ran pennzoil from day 1, they plug up a motor and leave a horrible gunk inside. I've had good luck with Castrol, Quaker State, and Shell oils. I dont really believe that oil is oil, Each oil has their own detergents and additives to make it different. Just my $0.02 I guess
12-14-2010, 10:53 AM
#10
I used to run fram filters on my daily driver. Then after awhile i was sitting at a stoplight once, the car was warmed up, and my oil pressure light came on. It started doing it more and more, and not within a few hundred miles, probably within 3-4 oil changes. I was always using fram filters and then i made the switch to wix filters. No more low oil pressure light every again. My buddy had an old honda daily driver and said he noticed the oil pressure was a little low at idle, made the switch to a different filter and it went away.
Im told the higher grade fram filters arnt an issue, but im not giving them anymore of my money to find out.
Im told the higher grade fram filters arnt an issue, but im not giving them anymore of my money to find out.
12-14-2010, 11:58 AM
#11
I used to run fram filters on my daily driver. Then after awhile i was sitting at a stoplight once, the car was warmed up, and my oil pressure light came on. It started doing it more and more, and not within a few hundred miles, probably within 3-4 oil changes. I was always using fram filters and then i made the switch to wix filters. No more low oil pressure light every again. My buddy had an old honda daily driver and said he noticed the oil pressure was a little low at idle, made the switch to a different filter and it went away.
Im told the higher grade fram filters arnt an issue, but im not giving them anymore of my money to find out.
Im told the higher grade fram filters arnt an issue, but im not giving them anymore of my money to find out.
12-14-2010, 01:23 PM
#12
I use to run Mobil 1 5W30 in my old 355 motor. I found that stuff to be like water – my engine ate it like crazy and I really don’t know where it all went. I had some minor issues with leaks, and she’d smoke a bit during the first WOT downshift after days of sitting. I switched to Mobil’s 15W50 oil (which I don’t even see in the stores anymore) and it helped my oil consumption but I too suffered from really weak oil pressure, although I had shitty oil pressure even with the 5W30.
My 383 is still pretty new (like only 1000-1500 miles) so I’ve got Rotela T 15W40 convention oil in there now as per my builders request. Reading up on that stuff I’ve started to think I may keep running this oil indefinitely or perhaps switch to Rotela’s synthetic oil after several thousand miles…
These oil threads are great. I actually just stumbled upon Champion Racing XP 20W50 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (from Callies website of all places). Looks like a pretty robust oil – its got the anti wear as well as the detergent properties that the Rotela oil has (or had before they lowered the zinc content). Plus it’s a synthetic blend – until recently I was all pro synthetic but after talking to some builders and people I’ve actually thought about sticking with conventional oil. We’ll see.
FYI Rotela and this Champion Racing XP oil says its not for street cars and I think this is b/c some of the properties/additives in these oils are brutal for emissions and may actually damage catalytic converters.
My 383 is still pretty new (like only 1000-1500 miles) so I’ve got Rotela T 15W40 convention oil in there now as per my builders request. Reading up on that stuff I’ve started to think I may keep running this oil indefinitely or perhaps switch to Rotela’s synthetic oil after several thousand miles…
These oil threads are great. I actually just stumbled upon Champion Racing XP 20W50 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (from Callies website of all places). Looks like a pretty robust oil – its got the anti wear as well as the detergent properties that the Rotela oil has (or had before they lowered the zinc content). Plus it’s a synthetic blend – until recently I was all pro synthetic but after talking to some builders and people I’ve actually thought about sticking with conventional oil. We’ll see.
FYI Rotela and this Champion Racing XP oil says its not for street cars and I think this is b/c some of the properties/additives in these oils are brutal for emissions and may actually damage catalytic converters.
12-14-2010, 01:27 PM
#13
Here's a writeup on that Champion Racing XP 20W50 synthetic blend:
More Proven Horsepower & Torque! Champion Racing XP 20W50 is the one that started it all by beating the competition in providing more horsepower, torque, and anti-wear additives! Champion Racing XP's premium ZDDP anti-wear protection is among the highest in the industry. Champion's exclusive shear stabilizer delivers better film strength and piston ring seal at peak temperatures. Champion Racing XP also delivers more foot-pounds of torque with higher compression than any competitor's brands.
Benefits include:
• Provides exceptional low coefficient of friction
• Offers film strength and viscosity stability of thicker mono-grades at higher temperatures
• Provides upper cylinder anti-wear protection
• Increases high-temp oil pressure and compression
• Formulated for flat tappet, roll over cams and bearings in turbo and super-charged racing engines
• Lowers engine temperature
• Compatible with petroleum and other synthetics
Better Protection and More Power
Champion® Racing 20W50 motor oil, with 2 times the Zinc (ZDDP) of other synthetic oils, provides premium anti-wear protection in heavily loaded racing engines with flat tappet cam followers operating at high RPMs and requiring high-pressure (stiff) valve springs. Champion® Racing 20W50 synthetic blend motor oil's tough film strength not only protects engines better than other racing oils, but is proven to provide more horsepower and torque in Dynamometer testing.
What function do these additives perform?
Molybdenum phosphorus agents are used in friction reduction acting as extreme-pressure additives for primary anti-wear protection between moving parts. Zinc dithio organophosphates (more phosphorus) enhance this protection. These agents also provide anti-corrosion, detergency and antioxidant properties for neutralizing acids. Sulfonated calcium and calcium phenates are primarily detergent / dispersant aids, acid neutralizers and can act as secondary anti-wear additives for additional protectioWhat function do these additives perform?Molybdenum phosphorus agents are used in friction reduction acting as extreme-pressure additives for primary anti-wear protection between moving parts. Zinc dithio organophosphates (more phosphorus) enhance this protection. These agents also provide anti-corrosion, detergency and antioxidant properties for neutralizing acids. Sulfonated calcium and calcium phenates are primarily detergent / dispersant aids, acid neutralizers and can act as secondary anti-wear additives for additional protection.
More Proven Horsepower & Torque! Champion Racing XP 20W50 is the one that started it all by beating the competition in providing more horsepower, torque, and anti-wear additives! Champion Racing XP's premium ZDDP anti-wear protection is among the highest in the industry. Champion's exclusive shear stabilizer delivers better film strength and piston ring seal at peak temperatures. Champion Racing XP also delivers more foot-pounds of torque with higher compression than any competitor's brands.
Benefits include:
• Provides exceptional low coefficient of friction
• Offers film strength and viscosity stability of thicker mono-grades at higher temperatures
• Provides upper cylinder anti-wear protection
• Increases high-temp oil pressure and compression
• Formulated for flat tappet, roll over cams and bearings in turbo and super-charged racing engines
• Lowers engine temperature
• Compatible with petroleum and other synthetics
Better Protection and More Power
Champion® Racing 20W50 motor oil, with 2 times the Zinc (ZDDP) of other synthetic oils, provides premium anti-wear protection in heavily loaded racing engines with flat tappet cam followers operating at high RPMs and requiring high-pressure (stiff) valve springs. Champion® Racing 20W50 synthetic blend motor oil's tough film strength not only protects engines better than other racing oils, but is proven to provide more horsepower and torque in Dynamometer testing.
What function do these additives perform?
Molybdenum phosphorus agents are used in friction reduction acting as extreme-pressure additives for primary anti-wear protection between moving parts. Zinc dithio organophosphates (more phosphorus) enhance this protection. These agents also provide anti-corrosion, detergency and antioxidant properties for neutralizing acids. Sulfonated calcium and calcium phenates are primarily detergent / dispersant aids, acid neutralizers and can act as secondary anti-wear additives for additional protectioWhat function do these additives perform?Molybdenum phosphorus agents are used in friction reduction acting as extreme-pressure additives for primary anti-wear protection between moving parts. Zinc dithio organophosphates (more phosphorus) enhance this protection. These agents also provide anti-corrosion, detergency and antioxidant properties for neutralizing acids. Sulfonated calcium and calcium phenates are primarily detergent / dispersant aids, acid neutralizers and can act as secondary anti-wear additives for additional protection.
12-14-2010, 02:28 PM
#14
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just out of curiousity......did the oil pressure recently drop to 7-10 at idle or was it always there?? Also I wouldn't run straight 30 weight in the engine, engines are designed and clearanced for a certain weight oil maybe u could run 10w30 in it instead of 5w30 but i wouldn't go to straight 30w.
theres nothing old school about a straight weight oil.......straight weight oils have their purpose.......but this isn't one of them lol..........also i'd refrain from those 0 weight oils espically in a motor that wasn't designed for them......
I just noticed my oil pressure had dropped a couple months ago. so i stuck a mechanical gauge on just to make sure my stock gauge didn't go out.
When 'im driving around its around 40-50 psi and i don't have a clue what it goes to at WOT because im not looking at my gauge when i'm going that fast lol
12-14-2010, 02:32 PM
#15
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I use to run Mobil 1 5W30 in my old 355 motor. I found that stuff to be like water – my engine ate it like crazy and I really don’t know where it all went. I had some minor issues with leaks, and she’d smoke a bit during the first WOT downshift after days of sitting. I switched to Mobil’s 15W50 oil (which I don’t even see in the stores anymore) and it helped my oil consumption but I too suffered from really weak oil pressure, although I had shitty oil pressure even with the 5W30.
My 383 is still pretty new (like only 1000-1500 miles) so I’ve got Rotela T 15W40 convention oil in there now as per my builders request. Reading up on that stuff I’ve started to think I may keep running this oil indefinitely or perhaps switch to Rotela’s synthetic oil after several thousand miles…
These oil threads are great. I actually just stumbled upon Champion Racing XP 20W50 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (from Callies website of all places). Looks like a pretty robust oil – its got the anti wear as well as the detergent properties that the Rotela oil has (or had before they lowered the zinc content). Plus it’s a synthetic blend – until recently I was all pro synthetic but after talking to some builders and people I’ve actually thought about sticking with conventional oil. We’ll see.
FYI Rotela and this Champion Racing XP oil says its not for street cars and I think this is b/c some of the properties/additives in these oils are brutal for emissions and may actually damage catalytic converters.
My 383 is still pretty new (like only 1000-1500 miles) so I’ve got Rotela T 15W40 convention oil in there now as per my builders request. Reading up on that stuff I’ve started to think I may keep running this oil indefinitely or perhaps switch to Rotela’s synthetic oil after several thousand miles…
These oil threads are great. I actually just stumbled upon Champion Racing XP 20W50 Synthetic Blend Motor Oil (from Callies website of all places). Looks like a pretty robust oil – its got the anti wear as well as the detergent properties that the Rotela oil has (or had before they lowered the zinc content). Plus it’s a synthetic blend – until recently I was all pro synthetic but after talking to some builders and people I’ve actually thought about sticking with conventional oil. We’ll see.
FYI Rotela and this Champion Racing XP oil says its not for street cars and I think this is b/c some of the properties/additives in these oils are brutal for emissions and may actually damage catalytic converters.
12-14-2010, 02:34 PM
#16
I just noticed my oil pressure had dropped a couple months ago. so i stuck a mechanical gauge on just to make sure my stock gauge didn't go out.
When 'im driving around its around 40-50 psi and i don't have a clue what it goes to at WOT because im not looking at my gauge when i'm going that fast lol
When 'im driving around its around 40-50 psi and i don't have a clue what it goes to at WOT because im not looking at my gauge when i'm going that fast lol
and come on u can watch the gauge with ur foot to the floor.......i cant tell u how many passes ive made staring at the AFR all the way down the track lol
12-14-2010, 05:09 PM
#18
Just as tbag_skywalker said, run 10W30 for the summer months, and what ever you do, please stay away from Pennzoil. From experience of pulling 3 motors apart that ran pennzoil from day 1, they plug up a motor and leave a horrible gunk inside. I've had good luck with Castrol, Quaker State, and Shell oils. I dont really believe that oil is oil, Each oil has their own detergents and additives to make it different. Just my $0.02 I guess
12-14-2010, 06:23 PM
#19
I run Castrol GTX 20w50 in the summer and 10w40 in the winter in my daily driver.
Track or "sport" cars get Valvoline VR1 20w50 or straight 50 from me. One of our fleet cars was going through synthetic (tried them all) at the rate of 3+ quarts per day, switched it to 50 weight VR1 and it only eats a quart a day now.
Track or "sport" cars get Valvoline VR1 20w50 or straight 50 from me. One of our fleet cars was going through synthetic (tried them all) at the rate of 3+ quarts per day, switched it to 50 weight VR1 and it only eats a quart a day now.
12-14-2010, 06:36 PM
#20
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I am using Valvoline VR1 10w30 race oil.Before the motor was installed,did a comparrison on the dyno,and the VR1 oil made 5 more hp than the other 2 oils we tested.