Car back from the mechanic - STILL won't shift while started
The only problem is I can't figure out what he used for that upper part of the rod. It looks like some type of "Thread-All" with a section you can crimp at the end. I've never seen ANYTHING like that though.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
I do, but since this one is so F'ed up, I'm going to use it to make an adjustable one similar to this:
The only problem is I can't figure out what he used for that upper part of the rod. It looks like some type of "Thread-All" with a section you can crimp at the end. I've never seen ANYTHING like that though.
The only problem is I can't figure out what he used for that upper part of the rod. It looks like some type of "Thread-All" with a section you can crimp at the end. I've never seen ANYTHING like that though.
Here's the link to the write-up I used https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...r-writeup.html
Its pretty straight forward and easy to do, only basic tools needed except a 3/8”x16 die.
So the master cylinder was beyond repair and even too messed up to turn into an adjustable one. I had an extra one, but the mechanic apparently tried to make that one adjustable and messed it up just as bad.
I'm thinking of splurging on a Tick Adjustable Master Cylinder. Thoughts?
I'm thinking of splurging on a Tick Adjustable Master Cylinder. Thoughts?
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
It won't matter whether you splurge on the Tick adjustable MC or if you create your own, just get an adjustable MC in that car and end your misery.
Slapping a new flywheel in couldn't hurt, but it will do little more than ever-so-slightly change the angle of your clutchfork.
You're whole problem is that your hydraulics are incapable of pulling your pressure plate away enough to prevent it from dragging on the friction plate. Since you've already replaced your entire hydraulic system, your hydraulics aren't the problem. A worn out clutchfork can potentially cause your problem, but that's EXTREMELY unlikely.
The problem with your aftermarket clutch, I'm 99% sure, is that the friction plate is slightly thicker than OEM, and because of this your pressure plate needs to be pulled slightly furthur than stock distance to prevent dragging/disengagement problems.
After a thousand or so miles of driving, your friction disk will loose some of its thickness from being compressed under the pressure plate, which might reduce or alleviate your disengagement problem, but until then you'll need to use an adjustable MC to give your clutchfork that extra needed push.
So the most logical solution to this problem would be to buy an adjustable MC or convert your own.
Sorry if it seems like I'm repeating myself man, but this (or replacing everything aftermarket with OEM parts) is the solution to your problem.
Slapping a new flywheel in couldn't hurt, but it will do little more than ever-so-slightly change the angle of your clutchfork.
You're whole problem is that your hydraulics are incapable of pulling your pressure plate away enough to prevent it from dragging on the friction plate. Since you've already replaced your entire hydraulic system, your hydraulics aren't the problem. A worn out clutchfork can potentially cause your problem, but that's EXTREMELY unlikely.
The problem with your aftermarket clutch, I'm 99% sure, is that the friction plate is slightly thicker than OEM, and because of this your pressure plate needs to be pulled slightly furthur than stock distance to prevent dragging/disengagement problems.
After a thousand or so miles of driving, your friction disk will loose some of its thickness from being compressed under the pressure plate, which might reduce or alleviate your disengagement problem, but until then you'll need to use an adjustable MC to give your clutchfork that extra needed push.
So the most logical solution to this problem would be to buy an adjustable MC or convert your own.
Sorry if it seems like I'm repeating myself man, but this (or replacing everything aftermarket with OEM parts) is the solution to your problem.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 48
Likes: 1
From: plymouth,mn
i dont know how much it would help but i had a similar situation at the track... i couldnt put it in any gears if the car was running but i could start it after i put it in gear. what it was on mine was the pressure plate bolts loosened up and half of them came out. the pressure plate was bent and warped from this and on top of that, one of the pressure plate bolts got lodged behind the clutch fork so i couldnt press it down all the way.
the other thing is we put a oem clutch in a 93, the bolt and stand they had holding the clutch fork on was wrong. i cant remember if they forgot the stand or if they had the fork flipped around but when the car started in the air the tires spun all the time.
another idea the clip that the fork uses to pop over the little stand that holds it to the trans if you had a race clutch in it the first time and it bent it due to the extra pressure needed and you put a easier clutch in maybe that could do it?
make sure the fork actually slides over the TOB, i managed to miss it and hook it behind the TOB instead of on it
the other thing is we put a oem clutch in a 93, the bolt and stand they had holding the clutch fork on was wrong. i cant remember if they forgot the stand or if they had the fork flipped around but when the car started in the air the tires spun all the time.
another idea the clip that the fork uses to pop over the little stand that holds it to the trans if you had a race clutch in it the first time and it bent it due to the extra pressure needed and you put a easier clutch in maybe that could do it?
make sure the fork actually slides over the TOB, i managed to miss it and hook it behind the TOB instead of on it
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Gas Monkey Built a 6-Wheel Ferrari Testarossa With a Corvette LT4 Engine
Verdad Gallardo
7 Most Reliable High-Performance Engines GM Has Ever Built
Verdad Gallardo
Amazing '71 Camaro Restomod Is Modern Muscle Car Under the Skin
Verdad Gallardo
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo It won't matter whether you splurge on the Tick adjustable MC or if you create your own, just get an adjustable MC in that car and end your misery.
Slapping a new flywheel in couldn't hurt, but it will do little more than ever-so-slightly change the angle of your clutchfork.
You're whole problem is that your hydraulics are incapable of pulling your pressure plate away enough to prevent it from dragging on the friction plate. Since you've already replaced your entire hydraulic system, your hydraulics aren't the problem. A worn out clutchfork can potentially cause your problem, but that's EXTREMELY unlikely.
The problem with your aftermarket clutch, I'm 99% sure, is that the friction plate is slightly thicker than OEM, and because of this your pressure plate needs to be pulled slightly furthur than stock distance to prevent dragging/disengagement problems.
After a thousand or so miles of driving, your friction disk will loose some of its thickness from being compressed under the pressure plate, which might reduce or alleviate your disengagement problem, but until then you'll need to use an adjustable MC to give your clutchfork that extra needed push.
So the most logical solution to this problem would be to buy an adjustable MC or convert your own.
Sorry if it seems like I'm repeating myself man, but this (or replacing everything aftermarket with OEM parts) is the solution to your problem.
Slapping a new flywheel in couldn't hurt, but it will do little more than ever-so-slightly change the angle of your clutchfork.
You're whole problem is that your hydraulics are incapable of pulling your pressure plate away enough to prevent it from dragging on the friction plate. Since you've already replaced your entire hydraulic system, your hydraulics aren't the problem. A worn out clutchfork can potentially cause your problem, but that's EXTREMELY unlikely.
The problem with your aftermarket clutch, I'm 99% sure, is that the friction plate is slightly thicker than OEM, and because of this your pressure plate needs to be pulled slightly furthur than stock distance to prevent dragging/disengagement problems.
After a thousand or so miles of driving, your friction disk will loose some of its thickness from being compressed under the pressure plate, which might reduce or alleviate your disengagement problem, but until then you'll need to use an adjustable MC to give your clutchfork that extra needed push.
So the most logical solution to this problem would be to buy an adjustable MC or convert your own.
Sorry if it seems like I'm repeating myself man, but this (or replacing everything aftermarket with OEM parts) is the solution to your problem.
It still really confuses me that this is happening with two clutch sets and that the Spec had worked fine. It makes me feel like I'm doing something wrong with the installation - but everything goes in extra smooth. The only thing I can even think of is that when you line up the disc and pressure plate - they don't seem to be straight. But the alignment tool easily slides in and out and the transmission slides flush with the bellhousing without needing to use bolts to pull it close.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
The only problem I have with putting an OEM clutch in is that the clutch I took out was a Spec Stage 2 and it worked completely fine until wearing out (prematurely). I'm waiting to hear back from Tick on whether or not they make a LT1 adjustable master cylinder and hopefully that will solve the issue.
It still really confuses me that this is happening with two clutch sets and that the Spec had worked fine. It makes me feel like I'm doing something wrong with the installation - but everything goes in extra smooth. The only thing I can even think of is that when you line up the disc and pressure plate - they don't seem to be straight. But the alignment tool easily slides in and out and the transmission slides flush with the bellhousing without needing to use bolts to pull it close.
It still really confuses me that this is happening with two clutch sets and that the Spec had worked fine. It makes me feel like I'm doing something wrong with the installation - but everything goes in extra smooth. The only thing I can even think of is that when you line up the disc and pressure plate - they don't seem to be straight. But the alignment tool easily slides in and out and the transmission slides flush with the bellhousing without needing to use bolts to pull it close.
In fact I know for sure they get updated and changed every so often-- because I was told by a Spec tech guy that the older disks are not interchangeable with the new ones. So there is a tiny chance that if you bought another Spec clutch, you'd run into the same problem as you have with the CC and RAM clutches.
I also find it odd that when you align your clutch upon installation that it doesn't really look lined up. I remember from doing my numerous clutch swaps that if I looked straight though to the pilot bushing, it always lined up perfectly with the friction disk splines, despite the fact that the alignment tool you get is a cheap piece of plastic. Have you thought about getting your hands on an extra T56 input shaft? I've heard of some guys doing that-- using an actual metal input shaft to line things up, instead of the plastic thing.
Oh and in case Tick can't help you with an adjustable MC, I know for sure that McLeod makes one for our cars. The description on their website says its for LS1 f-bodies, however, the LS1 MCs are exactly the same as the LT1s. Its the slaves that are entirely different. McLeod is expensive, but top notch stuff.
FINALLY!
I bought a Tick Adjustable Master Cylinder and literally had to adjust it as high as it would go - BUT I CAN SHIFT THROUGH ALL 6 GEARS!
The only problem is I notice the clutch pedal is shaking/wobbling quite a bit. What could this be?
I bought a Tick Adjustable Master Cylinder and literally had to adjust it as high as it would go - BUT I CAN SHIFT THROUGH ALL 6 GEARS!
The only problem is I notice the clutch pedal is shaking/wobbling quite a bit. What could this be?
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
Just drive the car till the clutch break-in period is over and hopefully the shaking will go away. I know my Spec clutch vibrated and wobbled a lot when I'd start driving normally in first gear after I installed it. Its normal, just part of break in process with the organic and kevlar disks.
So I've been reading more about the clutch vibration and it seems like I may have an issue. People say "normal chatter" should only occur when first taking off, but that if the pedal is vibrating at a dead stop - something else is wrong.
Where should I look first?
Where should I look first?
