Car back from the mechanic - STILL won't shift while started
Car back from the mechanic - STILL won't shift while started I'm a visual person, so I made a chart to explain what has been going wrong with my car since I put in the new clutch. The part that really baffles me is the car got worse after installing new hydraulics.
I've had many threads on here trying to get this thing figured out but so far NOTHING has worked. The transmission is coming out again tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
I've had many threads on here trying to get this thing figured out but so far NOTHING has worked. The transmission is coming out again tomorrow and I was wondering if anyone had any suggestions.
Last edited by Counted Out; Jan 18, 2011 at 01:11 AM.
I thought the adjustable master cylinder would do it for sure, but nope. I even adjusted the pedal to be higher than the brake pedal and still nothing. I was able to force it into 4th today because the old shifter gave me a little more leverage - but it wasn't nice at all.
By the way, thanks for helping out.
Last edited by Counted Out; Dec 26, 2010 at 10:59 PM.
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Verdad Gallardo The mechanic said he started the car while it was in first gear and it wanted to jump even with the clutch pressed in. I'll double check tomorrow though.
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
I guess I was wrong about an adjustable master cylinder solving all your clutch problems, but I've got a couple more ideas for ya.
1) How tight are you torquing the pressure plate bolts down to the flywheel? The housing on LT1 pressure plates are aluminum, and it will distort and cause issues if the bolts are too tight. A lot of steel pressure plates on other cars will call for around 50-60 ft lbs, but with an LT1 plate you shouldn't go much past 30 ft lbs, heck I think the Chilton's manual calls for just twenty-something.
2) How does the throwout bearing's collar look? It is the little round metal collar around the input shaft that the throwout bearing slides along. It should be smooth, if it looks beat up or bent there is a chance that it could be causing your disengagement issues, but probably not.
If you do decide to replace it, I know d&dperformance.com sells them, can't remember how much but I know they're not that expensive. You have to unbolt and remove the midplate of the transmission (which is also aluminum), and punch the old one out. Then the new one has to be carefully pressed back into the midplate.
Hope that helps-- and once again, good luck.
I had a similar problem when i did my ls7 clutch install. The car will shift into gears with the wheels off the ground. when on the ground the car wouldnt shift. Turns out it was air in the master cylinder, mityvac came in handy. Got all the air out and done. If everything was done right, just make sure you get all the air out of the system. GL bro
the other guy makes a good point also. if you over torqued the pressure plate, that could cause it not to release. i have been through a ram, center force and a street twin and never had issues like your having (th400 now though)
Holy **** dude, I don't even know you and I feel bad for you. Though I've got to say I have a lot of respect for your perseverance-- I would have driven the car off a damn cliff by now.
I guess I was wrong about an adjustable master cylinder solving all your clutch problems, but I've got a couple more ideas for ya.
1) How tight are you torquing the pressure plate bolts down to the flywheel? The housing on LT1 pressure plates are aluminum, and it will distort and cause issues if the bolts are too tight. A lot of steel pressure plates on other cars will call for around 50-60 ft lbs, but with an LT1 plate you shouldn't go much past 30 ft lbs, heck I think the Chilton's manual calls for just twenty-something.
2) How does the throwout bearing's collar look? It is the little round metal collar around the input shaft that the throwout bearing slides along. It should be smooth, if it looks beat up or bent there is a chance that it could be causing your disengagement issues, but probably not.
If you do decide to replace it, I know d&dperformance.com sells them, can't remember how much but I know they're not that expensive. You have to unbolt and remove the midplate of the transmission (which is also aluminum), and punch the old one out. Then the new one has to be carefully pressed back into the midplate.
Hope that helps-- and once again, good luck.
I guess I was wrong about an adjustable master cylinder solving all your clutch problems, but I've got a couple more ideas for ya.
1) How tight are you torquing the pressure plate bolts down to the flywheel? The housing on LT1 pressure plates are aluminum, and it will distort and cause issues if the bolts are too tight. A lot of steel pressure plates on other cars will call for around 50-60 ft lbs, but with an LT1 plate you shouldn't go much past 30 ft lbs, heck I think the Chilton's manual calls for just twenty-something.
2) How does the throwout bearing's collar look? It is the little round metal collar around the input shaft that the throwout bearing slides along. It should be smooth, if it looks beat up or bent there is a chance that it could be causing your disengagement issues, but probably not.
If you do decide to replace it, I know d&dperformance.com sells them, can't remember how much but I know they're not that expensive. You have to unbolt and remove the midplate of the transmission (which is also aluminum), and punch the old one out. Then the new one has to be carefully pressed back into the midplate.
Hope that helps-- and once again, good luck.
I bought a new Craftsmen torque wrench to be sure everything was to spec - and I torqued them down to 22lbs.
I'll have to check out the other thing you mentioned though.
I had a similar problem when i did my ls7 clutch install. The car will shift into gears with the wheels off the ground. when on the ground the car wouldnt shift. Turns out it was air in the master cylinder, mityvac came in handy. Got all the air out and done. If everything was done right, just make sure you get all the air out of the system. GL bro
when you seat the fork on the throw out bearing you have to push it into place. if the fork is not all the way onto the throw out bearing (or not seated on its mount) it will not function correctly, so it wont disengage the clutch.
the other guy makes a good point also. if you over torqued the pressure plate, that could cause it not to release. i have been through a ram, center force and a street twin and never had issues like your having (th400 now though)
the other guy makes a good point also. if you over torqued the pressure plate, that could cause it not to release. i have been through a ram, center force and a street twin and never had issues like your having (th400 now though)
Launching!
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 246
Likes: 0
From: Houston
I just had a similar problem.
It ended up being the clutch fork was not staying in because the little clip was worn out.
Another thing to consider was perhaps the flywheel has been resurfaced too many times and it isnt thick enough anymore. Was this the first time it was resurfaced?
It ended up being the clutch fork was not staying in because the little clip was worn out.
Another thing to consider was perhaps the flywheel has been resurfaced too many times and it isnt thick enough anymore. Was this the first time it was resurfaced?
Teching In
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 45
Likes: 0
My buddy and I had the same problem with his TA. We installed all new hydraulics, used the mighty vac to get all the air out of the system, damn thing still wouldn't disengage. Ended up being the clutch that he got was slightly cupped so it was dragging on the tips of the pucks.
I just had a similar problem.
It ended up being the clutch fork was not staying in because the little clip was worn out.
Another thing to consider was perhaps the flywheel has been resurfaced too many times and it isnt thick enough anymore. Was this the first time it was resurfaced?
It ended up being the clutch fork was not staying in because the little clip was worn out.
Another thing to consider was perhaps the flywheel has been resurfaced too many times and it isnt thick enough anymore. Was this the first time it was resurfaced?
Also, I'm not sure how many times the flywheel as been resurfaced, but from my understanding, if a flywheel was cut too many times it would cause the opposite problem.
My buddy and I had the same problem with his TA. We installed all new hydraulics, used the mighty vac to get all the air out of the system, damn thing still wouldn't disengage. Ended up being the clutch that he got was slightly cupped so it was dragging on the tips of the pucks.
What could be causing the clutch to drag?