Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

And thank you to EVERYONE for your help so far. This has been a pain in the *** and I'm sure I would have pushed the car off a cliff if it wasn't for your help.

LarsV8

You can read about my struggles here:

https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...-any-gear.html

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I'm going to PM you.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Another thing I just remembered is that I used slightly longer than stock pressure plate bolts.

Here's what I used:


VS Stock:


The longer bolt didn't seem to be "too" long (it didn't go past the end of the flywheel) and a few people told me it should be fine. But could this be the problem?

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

Hmm dont think thatd cause your problem. but anythings possible. If the bolts were sticking out past the back of your flywheel youd know as soon as you turned the car over.and aslong as you locked the bolts up. the pressure plate will be secure to the flywheel. cant see thta being an issue.

Have you checked to make sure your clutch is disengaging properly ?

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

that could very well be your problem. my friends LS1 was acting up just like yours and he found that he overtorqued the pressure plate bolts. torqued them to spec and been fine ever since

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

It isn't disengaging all the way (I believe). The mechanic said the car wanted to jump forward even with the clutch pedal pressed in.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I bought a new torque wrench just for these bolts. They were all tightened to 22lbs.

tbag_skywalker

You said you adjusted the master cylinder to maximum length right? so that the pedal is positioned pretty high in relation to the brake pedal?

Did you happen to start the car when you did this? I made a stupid mistake when I first put in my adjustable MC-- I had it adjusted too far and when I started the car, the clutchfork was pushed so far it rubbed on the spinning flywheel, made an awful screech and scratched the **** out of my pressure plate. I take it this didn't happen to you?

Just for ***** and giggles, try adjusting the MC rod as long as it can go, then bolt the slave up to its studs without that little metal cover so that you can see inside the bellhousing. Then, without starting the car, have a friend get in the car and push the pedal down while you sit underneath with a flash light and watch what's going on. The fork should touch the pressure plate, it doesn't than you've got issues with your hydraulics- either that or your clutchfork isn't pivoting properly on its 'T'.

05HD

I rebuilt a trans for a guy once. He said he would pull it out and put it back in, just needed me to rebuild it for him. So, I rebuilt it, dropped it off to him and said have fun. He called me the next day cursing me out and screaming about it not going into any gear. Turned out he knocked the pilot bearing out into the pressure plate when he was reinstalling it, jammed the pressure plate so the clutch was always engaged. Wrecked his fancy new clutch and all.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I didn't have any problems with the adjustable master cylinder being too high. I actually haven't messed with the adjustments much, but the mechanic had it up higher than the brake pedal when I picked the car up (before the adjustable, it sat well below the brake pedal height).

I actually tried watching the slave cylinder by removing the cover before I installed the adjustable master cylinder. The slave rod seemed to be making full extension, but I didn't look up onto the pressure plate. The mechanic said he also did this after installing the adjustable master cylinder to see if it increased the throw of the slave any.

I checked the pilot bearing before I installed the CC kit, it seemed fine. This time around I might swap in a bushing instead.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

WRT to the longer bolts. Assuming your not running out of thread on the bolts, they should be fine. If you were running out of thread and the PP was not "secure" to the flywheel, that might leave some gap in there that could result in disk drag. I would run the original bolts to simply rule them out.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I took the slave cover off today and realized my fork look like it wasn't in the right position.

Here is a picture I found online of a properly installed fork:


Here is mine:



It can come as far forward as this:


And can be pressed back as far as this by hand:


It seems like it is sitting MUCH farther forward than it should be - could this be the issue?

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

Video of Clutch Fork "Slop":
http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/2019/54137074.mp4

old93camaro

iTrader: (8)

could you get any pics of the fork i think something is up with it i just have a gut feeling.. i mean pics of where it engage the throwout bearing and a pic of the spacer where the slave sits on

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Looks normal to me.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I'll get pictures tomorrow.

Even where the fork sits? I'm not worried about the slop. But if you look at the "Correct" picture, the fork seems to be actually sitting back in the housing - mine sits well in front of the housing.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

Mine sits toward the front too and when in its correct position, is sloppy as Hell.

Counted Out

iTrader: (6)

I found a picture of it from before I installed the new hydraulics/when it would sometimes shift. The fork seems much further back:

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

If the fork is the problem, it should be easy to determine. Either the fork with its spring, the t-fastener would show some obvious signs of wear or damage. I have seen the forks break but never bend. The fork position can vary depending on the overall thickness of the disk. Doubt the problem is there.

You might want to install a bone stock organic disk to tsee if the problem remains. I ended up doing that when I had release issues years ago and thats how learned about the tight clearances when using aftermarket disks.