Car back from the mechanic - STILL won't shift while started
TECH Regular
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 492
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY
So I completely removed the slave cylinder and the fork is still rubbing against the pressure plate. This was never a problem before, so I'll have to add it to my timeline of events.
And I guess the mechanic didn't install an adjustable master cylinder. He just extended the rod and pressed it back together. So I'll probably have to take the master cylinder out and do it right, but there's obviously another problem now.
And I guess the mechanic didn't install an adjustable master cylinder. He just extended the rod and pressed it back together. So I'll probably have to take the master cylinder out and do it right, but there's obviously another problem now.
The only thing I can think of that would work would be to make your own adjustable master cylinder (even though extending the rod accomplishes the same thing), you'll need it for it's adjustablilty. Then grind down your fork in the places where its rubbing against the pressure plate, excluding the retainer clip, like SS_RRR did in his picture. Finally grind down clutch fork T, just a little bit off the bottom, like .050" to start.
Grinding the T should pull the clutchfork in far enough that the retainer clip shouldn't rub against the pressure plate anymore.
Grinding the clutch fork will give further clearance between the fork and pressure plate.
Creating an adjustable master cylinder will give you the ability to push your clutchfork as far enough as it needs to fully disengage your clutch.
This isn't a perfect solution to your problem at all, its more or less a way to cheat and get around the problem without solving it. It's also gonna be time consuming, but fortunately its the dead of winter so hopefully you get the car running right by spring.
Good luck man, after this I might be all out of ideas too.
You said you've just got a factory flywheel that's been resurfaced a few times right? You never bought a new one or a new aftermarket one right? Still trying to figure out why your pressure plate is sticking out so so close to the fork in the first place.
The only thing I can think of that would work would be to make your own adjustable master cylinder (even though extending the rod accomplishes the same thing), you'll need it for it's adjustablilty. Then grind down your fork in the places where its rubbing against the pressure plate, excluding the retainer clip, like SS_RRR did in his picture. Finally grind down clutch fork T, just a little bit off the bottom, like .050" to start.
Grinding the T should pull the clutchfork in far enough that the retainer clip shouldn't rub against the pressure plate anymore.
Grinding the clutch fork will give further clearance between the fork and pressure plate.
Creating an adjustable master cylinder will give you the ability to push your clutchfork as far enough as it needs to fully disengage your clutch.
This isn't a perfect solution to your problem at all, its more or less a way to cheat and get around the problem without solving it. It's also gonna be time consuming, but fortunately its the dead of winter so hopefully you get the car running right by spring.
Good luck man, after this I might be all out of ideas too.
The only thing I can think of that would work would be to make your own adjustable master cylinder (even though extending the rod accomplishes the same thing), you'll need it for it's adjustablilty. Then grind down your fork in the places where its rubbing against the pressure plate, excluding the retainer clip, like SS_RRR did in his picture. Finally grind down clutch fork T, just a little bit off the bottom, like .050" to start.
Grinding the T should pull the clutchfork in far enough that the retainer clip shouldn't rub against the pressure plate anymore.
Grinding the clutch fork will give further clearance between the fork and pressure plate.
Creating an adjustable master cylinder will give you the ability to push your clutchfork as far enough as it needs to fully disengage your clutch.
This isn't a perfect solution to your problem at all, its more or less a way to cheat and get around the problem without solving it. It's also gonna be time consuming, but fortunately its the dead of winter so hopefully you get the car running right by spring.
Good luck man, after this I might be all out of ideas too.
And you are correct. Factory flywheel. And I'm sure it's been resurfaced at least 2-3 times.
After thinking about this I believe I'm wrong about the angle of the clutch fork and when it makes contact onto the PP. You say the mechanic basically extended the rod that goes into the clutch M/C? If that's the case then I think it is indeed rubbing on the PP because the clutch fork is extending too far, which was brought on by trying to make up for the lack of engagement the fork was applying initially when it was not seated onto the TB.
Basically I think if you were to go back to the original length on the clutch M/C rod and make doubly sure the fork was pushed in completely onto the TB you would be absolutely fine.
Basically I think if you were to go back to the original length on the clutch M/C rod and make doubly sure the fork was pushed in completely onto the TB you would be absolutely fine.
After thinking about this I believe I'm wrong about the angle of the clutch fork and when it makes contact onto the PP. You say the mechanic basically extended the rod that goes into the clutch M/C? If that's the case then I think it is indeed rubbing on the PP because the clutch fork is extending too far, which was brought on by trying to make up for the lack of engagement the fork was applying initially when it was not seated onto the TB.
Basically I think if you were to go back to the original length on the clutch M/C rod and make doubly sure the fork was pushed in completely onto the TB you would be absolutely fine.
Basically I think if you were to go back to the original length on the clutch M/C rod and make doubly sure the fork was pushed in completely onto the TB you would be absolutely fine.
After thinking about this I believe I'm wrong about the angle of the clutch fork and when it makes contact onto the PP. You say the mechanic basically extended the rod that goes into the clutch M/C? If that's the case then I think it is indeed rubbing on the PP because the clutch fork is extending too far, which was brought on by trying to make up for the lack of engagement the fork was applying initially when it was not seated onto the TB.
Basically I think if you were to go back to the original length on the clutch M/C rod and make doubly sure the fork was pushed in completely onto the TB you would be absolutely fine.
Basically I think if you were to go back to the original length on the clutch M/C rod and make doubly sure the fork was pushed in completely onto the TB you would be absolutely fine.
Not sure if this has been asked, but are you absolutely sure the clutch is in the correct position? As in, the flywheel side of the hub is actually on the flywheel side and not flipped? That is the only other thing I can think of...
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Verdad Gallardo I'm 90% sure (the 10% is just because I want to believe anything at this point). But this is the only type of clutch I've ever done, so I don't have the usual problem of "doing it the way I'm used to". I simply placed it in the way that it (obviously) fit.
Sorry, I had to get away from it for a bit.
I got the transmission out and discovered the noise was being caused by the inspection cover. It actually broke and part of it was rubbing against the flywheel.
However, the awkward thing is this. Check out how out of line the clutch disc/pressure plate look. Does this look right?:
But the weird thing is the alignment tool slides in and out easily with no resistance either way. This seems weird to me.
Video of the alignment tool:
I got the transmission out and discovered the noise was being caused by the inspection cover. It actually broke and part of it was rubbing against the flywheel.
However, the awkward thing is this. Check out how out of line the clutch disc/pressure plate look. Does this look right?:
But the weird thing is the alignment tool slides in and out easily with no resistance either way. This seems weird to me.
Video of the alignment tool:
I got the clutch lined up today and it looks MUCH more lined up than above. I'm still having a hard time believing this is the only issue because I really doubt the input shaft would have gone in the 8 times I've taken it out if I was lining it up that badly.
I'll get the transmission in tomorrow and check.
I'll get the transmission in tomorrow and check.
Ok here's an update to my situation... After being locked out of 2,3 and 5th gear I went back in put new spec 3+ in put it back together the car fired up but the pedal wasn't going all the way down. Went back in played with the fork a bit and put slave back on this time pedal was better but car wouldn't crank over thinking it was the battery I bought new red top still no crank so I ended up taking a closer look at the fork and when I pulled the dlave off blue paint chips and metal fell out oh the housing looked at the pp and it looked exactly like the pic you posted with outer ring grinded. So I looked at the fork bolt and seen it wasn't tightened all the way. After spending $150 in tools trying to tighten the bolt without pulling the tranny I decided to unbolt the tranny and top bolt of the mount and the crossmember slide the tranny back which gave enough room to tighten fork bolt put it back together and still nothing except pedal felt smoother but still couldnt go in gear with car on I tried unplugging sensors on the solenoid but nothing worked I lifted the rear off the ground started the car and put it in the only gear I could go into which was first gear let off the clutch and gave it gas til the wheels started spinning threw it in 2nd after about 10-15mph and BAM it went in just fine took the car for a test spin and realized the skip shift was locking me out of gear I would suggest checking fork bolt making sure it tight and lift the rear put it in gear and try to shift into second after 15mph if that doesn't work I don't know I changed everything that has to do with clutch and hydros just like you so that's my adventure hope it helps.
I got my transmission back in, same issue (no grinding, just can't get into gear).
I double checked the fork bolt, it was fine. But I'm slightly confused on how exactly you got it to work? You simply raised the rear wheels and shifted while in the air and this fixed the problem? Or was your problem simply the Skip-Shift?
Ok here's an update to my situation... After being locked out of 2,3 and 5th gear I went back in put new spec 3+ in put it back together the car fired up but the pedal wasn't going all the way down. Went back in played with the fork a bit and put slave back on this time pedal was better but car wouldn't crank over thinking it was the battery I bought new red top still no crank so I ended up taking a closer look at the fork and when I pulled the dlave off blue paint chips and metal fell out oh the housing looked at the pp and it looked exactly like the pic you posted with outer ring grinded. So I looked at the fork bolt and seen it wasn't tightened all the way. After spending $150 in tools trying to tighten the bolt without pulling the tranny I decided to unbolt the tranny and top bolt of the mount and the crossmember slide the tranny back which gave enough room to tighten fork bolt put it back together and still nothing except pedal felt smoother but still couldnt go in gear with car on I tried unplugging sensors on the solenoid but nothing worked I lifted the rear off the ground started the car and put it in the only gear I could go into which was first gear let off the clutch and gave it gas til the wheels started spinning threw it in 2nd after about 10-15mph and BAM it went in just fine took the car for a test spin and realized the skip shift was locking me out of gear I would suggest checking fork bolt making sure it tight and lift the rear put it in gear and try to shift into second after 15mph if that doesn't work I don't know I changed everything that has to do with clutch and hydros just like you so that's my adventure hope it helps.
Originally Posted by Member from a Local Forum
Sounds like its not disengaging completely. Its a fairly common issue with the after market clutches and the lt1 t56. I had the same problem with a mcleod single disk clutch.
You will need to change the clutch fork pivot point. Pull the tranny, remove the "t block" that the fork pivots on and grind the base of it .100" or so and then re install. I think the paper work that comes with the ram clutches may say something about this.
You will need to change the clutch fork pivot point. Pull the tranny, remove the "t block" that the fork pivots on and grind the base of it .100" or so and then re install. I think the paper work that comes with the ram clutches may say something about this.
I know this might sound like a big waste of time, but have you thought about putting everything back to OEM including maybe a new fork. Just to see if it all lines up and works properly?
I've thought about replacing the fork, but I really doubt an OEM clutch would solve the issue. It was a Spec 2 I took out of the car and that clutch seemed to work fine until it wore out. And aren't the pressure plates the same anyway?
