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LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Stall w/ 4.10's?

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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:18 PM
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Default Stall w/ 4.10's?
Got a 96 Formula, with mods in sig...

The car is my DD.

Probably going to install a shift kit soon, wanted to know a few things about a stall.

What size is best for the 4.10's? (please don't say change the gears to 3.73's)

Is it ok to buy used?

I was thinking yank, but I found a vigilante 3600 for sale?

Let me know.

Thanks,

Kyle
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:29 PM
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A 4K would work well with those gears
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
A 4K would work well with those gears
So a 3600 is too small?

I had a stall in my mustang, 3000rpm... It sounded like i was ragging a clutch every time i would take off normally from a light? Is it the same with the 4l60E
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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Usually a 3600 is matched with 3.73s. You can run it, I just know a lot of people recommend a 4K or above with 4.10s
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Old Dec 26, 2010 | 10:59 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
Usually a 3600 is matched with 3.73s. You can run it, I just know a lot of people recommend a 4K or above with 4.10s
Ok. 4k it is.

Will it sound like im raggin' clutch tho?
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 02:23 PM
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The converter has to match the cam and rear gear. This is where dynos become helpful. For a street/strip car the ideal converter stalls 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor, within reason. With my set up I run 4.10s and a Vig 4000. Although 4400 might have been ideal Vig did not recommend going over 4000 for street driven LT1 n/a applications. 4000 might be a bit much now, but you certainly could grow into it. BTW the times/mph in my sig was with a Vig 3600. Having it restalled to 4000 woke it up even more out of the hole in non-scientific street testing. And with a good, quality, efficient converter they don't have the clutch slip feel like you are thinking. You just have to tap the throttle in my car and it feels like its gonna jump out from under you.

--Alan
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 02:44 PM
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Originally Posted by ABA383
The converter has to match the cam and rear gear. This is where dynos become helpful. For a street/strip car the ideal converter stalls 500-900 rpm below the torque peak of the motor, within reason. With my set up I run 4.10s and a Vig 4000. Although 4400 might have been ideal Vig did not recommend going over 4000 for street driven LT1 n/a applications. 4000 might be a bit much now, but you certainly could grow into it. BTW the times/mph in my sig was with a Vig 3600. Having it restalled to 4000 woke it up even more out of the hole in non-scientific street testing. And with a good, quality, efficient converter they don't have the clutch slip feel like you are thinking. You just have to tap the throttle in my car and it feels like its gonna jump out from under you.

--Alan
So 4000 it is... Should i talk to Yank? Is it ok to buy used?
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 06:03 PM
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Yank, Vigilante (Precision Industries), and Circle D are the 3 I'd talk to. As far as buying used I wouldn't unless ur going to send it back to the company to be checked out and freshened. If you absolutely know the owner/history of the used converter then you may be ok, but I've seen way too many folks burned by used converters not being what they are advertised and/or damaged to the point of being unusable. There's such a huge gain to be had with this component that skimping here is not a smart idea.

--Alan
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Old Dec 27, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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As stated buy used if the converter has been gone through by a reputable shop and everything checks out fine. A good converter like a Yank or Vig will be about $750 on up
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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If i am roll racing with the stall in it, lets say a 40 roll, 3rd honk and I nail it.... will it be any different than the stock stall... from a roll?
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SpeedFreak123
If i am roll racing with the stall in it, lets say a 40 roll, 3rd honk and I nail it.... will it be any different than the stock stall... from a roll?
Yes.

Huge difference everywhere.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by Puck
Yes.

Huge difference everywhere.
How so? Can you explain, please?
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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I don't really know how to explain it but it's definately a huge difference. RPM's don't drop between shifts nearly as much. Here's a vid I found on Youtube- maybe that'll help even though it's only a 3600

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9w...eature=related
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SilverSS07
I don't really know how to explain it but it's definately a huge difference. RPM's don't drop between shifts nearly as much. Here's a vid I found on Youtube- maybe that'll help even though it's only a 3600

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EsW9w...eature=related
thanks for searching the vid. Still a little lost, but thanks for the replies.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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The converter will flash up to whatever your stall speed is. So when you floor it your revs will jump to 4K and start climbing.
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Old Dec 28, 2010 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
The converter will flash up to whatever your stall speed is. So when you floor it your revs will jump to 4K and start climbing.
So it doesnt matter what speed im at , even if im at 70mph and im at 3k rpm and i nail it, its gonna jump up to 4k, and climb? not gonna downshift?
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