Hy guys, blessings for this new year.

Some days ago i made a thread where I broke my fork. anyway I removed everything and this is how things look. I still cant understand how this could happen in 5 months. It was a brand new zoom clutch. what I noticed on my fork was that the clip was kinda loose, i think that that may have lead to that the fork sliped out.

 

Yikes

 

It's pics like this that make me glad I got the McLeod LT1 blowshield, never any worries of clutch or flywheel explosions cutting off any body parts.

 

same thing happened to me on Friday, the friction material jammed into the pressure plate and I couldn't disengage the clutch:



this is also a Zoom/Perfection clutch

 

What spec was that clutch? OEM replacement? hard launches/acceleration? where did you buy it from? yes this is 20 questions lol

maybe i should be worried about my perfection clutch...

 

That also happened to me with a Kevlar clutch with only 1500 miles - less than fun!

 

what brand was that clutch?

 

i can tell you one thing

you didnt shim the flywheel enough, i can tell this because i can see the rub mark on the outside of the pp. where the fork was hitting it. i know this from experience

 

I bought mine from summit. How do you mean shim the flywheel.

 

There are no such things as flywheel shims for LT1 clutches.

There are shims for LS1 clutch/flywheel setups, but not LT1 clutches.

An LT1 clutch is a pull clutch, not a standard clutch. Therefore shimming the flywheel serves no purpose whatsoever and will only create the risk of the pressure plate rubbing against the clutchfork.

As to what caused your clutch to come apart like that, I don't know, could have been a manufacturing defect most likely. I do know that shimming the flywheel out has nothing to do with it, and if anyone wants to try to find 'LT1 clutch/flywheel shims', you won't because they don't exist.

 

ok thanks, when draggin97s10 wrote about shimming I looked up weird, because I never saw nothing there when I installed my flywheel, and didn't read noting about that in the repair manual.

 

The scored pressure plate is a result of the TOB top flange popping off and the fork making contact. Same exact thing happened to me and I ended up with a nice silver stripe on the PP.

As already stated, shimming the flywheel on a LT1 is pointless.

 

Exact same thing happened to my zoom clutch, I talked to zoom about it and they sent me a whole new clutch kit and flywheel and their "super" throwout bearing which is a huge upgrade over the one that they originally send you. And you DO NOT shim these clutches

 

Do you have a picture of the super TOB?

 

oh really so when you cut a flywheel the pressure plate is not in a diffrent place as an un-cut flywheel therefore not changing the geometry of the way the clutch fork goes on the TO bearing.

maybe you guys are right. i always put back in behind the flywheel what i take off the face of it.

 

If you turn the flywheel, yes the pressure plate will move slightly forward but its not a problem. For discussion sake, lets say you cut .030" off the flywheel.

This is the way I understand it, right or wrong.
Just bolt the turned flywheel up without a shim and all the rest of the clutch, tranny and slave. The slave is self adjusting and will will push on the fork and take up the slack at the TOB and the fingers of the PP. This is now the slaves new home position which will be around .030" different than where it was before. The new geometry (angle) of the fork will be only a tiny bit different. The LT1 hydros are very forgiving when it comes to tiny changes.

I have done numerous LT1 clutch jobs and never found a need for the flywheel shim. In fact the last clutch I had, the PP was turned two times that I know of and at least one time by the dealer when it was new. I suspect there was around .050" total removed.

I think the flywheel shims were more critical in the old days when you had levers and bellcranks that were less adjustable connecting the pedal to the clutch. Honestly there is no harm in the shim assuming what comes off the flywheel is replaced by the shim and no more. If the shim were overly thick, now you risk the PP hitting the fork.

 

No i didnt take a picture of it. But the main bearing part is a sealed bearing. Instead of the loose ball crap they had before and they used a thicker gauge of metal for the entire piece.

 

If you ever run across a pic of it on the net, please post it up.

 

I've only done clutches in late 60s muscle cars. Is that the correct pressure plate? The contact area looks skinnier than the clutch contact area. Maybe it's correct -- others here should know.

 

Im going to shoot the guy at zoom an email and see if i can get some info on it.