quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Well upon getting the crankshaft to the machine shop we found a little issue on the rear rod journal. Fixed it by polishing it and running a .001 Over bearing on just rod 7 and 8. So now everything looks good picked everything up last night and got the crank in the block. All the clearances on the mains and rods are right where i want them and now i feel comfortable with the shortblock. Got the pistons back from swain tech too....look great with the PC9 and Moly Skirt and the Thermal Barrier Tops!!!



Also got a little present from UPS a little earlier that originally expected......

1-7/8" to a 3.5" Collector






Gapping the file fit rings..... nice lightweight ring set from total seal 1.2/1.5/3.0








Tool I made out of PVC to line up the rings in the block 1" down nice and eaisly to measure for gap.....



All the rods and pistons ready for assembly......



Crank in the block.....backed off the torque on the caps to 70ft/lbs this time to prevent cap distortion.....



One Piston and rod assembled then i got tired of fighting with the wire locks and called it a night lol.....that is one thing i liked about the SRP Proseries Piston's....they use wire locks instead of spiro-locks......easier to install....stronger....and most importantly lighter.....

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

is that the best beer ever i see in the 2nd to last picture?! octoberfest!?

looks good mike! u really rn't messin around this year are you? getting **** done asap!

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

haha thats garage rule tony.....if you are entering you better either have beer or **** lol.....

nope trying to get stuff done.......gonna sandblast the frame tonight and get this sucker in paint saturday hopefully.......then stuffs really gonna start comming together!!!

Matts94Z28

iTrader: (6)

Lots of useful information here. It makes my motor look like I just threw it together! Ha. Thanks for sharing. I will def. come back to this thread for reference on a few things when I put a larger crank in the car next year. Good luck with it!

SoxXpupPeT

iTrader: (34)

I cant get enough of this! i love Everything youve done with the car! and those headers gave me a woody! who makes them ?

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

they'll be more as i assemble .......motor should be complete by sunday im hoping.......

the headers are headman hustler race headers

CamaroRacing12

iTrader: (5)

whos the girl in ur avatar? dope!

Robs94z

iTrader: (4)

The build is looking GREAT Mike!! Keep the updates coming..

robsquikz28

iTrader: (246)

looking better everyday and im so hatin...everyone will have a car out this year

BOLO

iTrader: (40)

Looks like 9's on motor to me. Great rebuild Mike. And thanks for your advise and suggestions.

Matts94Z28

iTrader: (6)

That would be my g/f. She's also in last years calendar.

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Sorry, looks like a 10.01 second build to me at best. No 9's for you!!!!!!

. J/K, I wish you the best of luck .

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

i hope so .....and no problem man let me know if you need anything else....

damn.....i went 10.2 but congrats to you too lol!!

she got a sister?? j/k

thanks!!!

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Not motor related but I finally got the car sandblasted last night........the primer had a reaction with a previous paint job apparently so i had to strip the whole engine bay down to the metal........it sucked lol...still picking sand out of my head lol

gonna prime it at my shop tomorrow night and hopefully spray it down at the paint booth on saturday or sunday......then i can start re-assembly...

I dont know what had more sand on it my car or my truck lol

merim123

iTrader: (11)

thanks for all the detailed pics, very helpful to see some of those pics and what you did and why. keep it coming

tricked94camaro

iTrader: (1)

what sandblaster do you use for that?

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

we used a home modified harbor freight 100lb stand up blaster.........we put a deadman valve on it .......that thing was insane.......stripped the paint off from like two feet back in about 3 seconds lol

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Well I started assembly friday night......got pretty far untill my ring compressor broke and i bent one of my oil ring springs on the way in a bore........gonna call total seal and have one set in today.........but anyway heres some build pics.........

here you can see the crank installed.....i ran .001 undersize bearings (Clevite H Series) on half the shell on the front and rear mains to get the clearance i desire of .0032...also torque the caps down to only 75ft/lbs this time to prevent any cap distortion....



here you can see the wire locks holding the pins in the pistons.......srp pro pistons use wire locks instead of spiro locks.....they're stronger...easier to remove and lighter than spiro locks....



after i got the pistons hung on the rods i installed the rings.......being sure to have the gaps faced in the correct directions that total seal instructed...



after installing the rings i prepped all of the cylinders with the total seal quik seat graphite powder........this helps the rings seat by reducing the amount of oil allowed to get trapped in the cross hatches in the cylinder for the first few minutes of operation......anywhere there is oil residue left it turns green as you can see....pretty cool



removed the caps and cleaned all of the bearing backs and faces as well as the parting line surfaces of the rod and cap.....and then used assembly lube on the bearing shells for installation....also moly lubed the bolts...



here i use the ring compressor to compress the rings for installation into the block......



heres the shortblock assembled except for that one piston and rod with the bad ring
all of the rods i tightend while using the ARP rod bolt stretch gauge......i torqued the bolt untill i reached between .0053-.0058 rod bolt stretch as you saw earlier in my posts....



Here is the AI Solid Roller cam installed with the retaining plate on the front torqued down to 120in/lbs..



next the cloyes double roller billet timing set goes on.....



make sure the dots are lined up correctly!!! ......remember two crank revolutions is one cam revolution so either dot to dot or both at 12 O'Clock work the same......bottom is easier to line up though...


and i made sure the hex cam key in the gear lined up directly with the 0* mark on the gear......




next i brakekleen the deck and prepare it for installation of the head....



next i laid out all of my hardware and cleaned all the threads with a wire brush and brakekleen.....then used a small amount of rtv on the threads that go in the block....all of our threads go into the water jacket so this is a must...



also make sure that the gasket is clean and stays oil free......this is a new cometic i had custom built for my application.....



here are all of the studs hand tightened into the block and the gasket installed......be sure to wipe away any excess rtv that may ooze out of the bolt holes and onto the deck before putting on the gasket.....



next brakekleen the bottom of the cylidner head and check for any burrs or sratches that are protruding from the surface......this one looks good...


here the AI TFS 215cc head goes on and all of the washers and nuts.......being sure to use moly lube under the washer flats and on the threads....then torque the heads down using the proper sequence.....



heres the proper torque sequence......i go in three stages on mine......35ft/lbs.....then 55ft/lbs........then 75ft/lbs and then i recheck them all again....



heres what i got so far.....



more to come tonight and soon as i get that damn ring in the mail lol!!!

next.....
installation of the last piston and rod
other head
valvetrain and adjustment
oil pump/modification and pan/pickup

stay tuned!!! hopefully engine dyno in a couple of weeks!!!

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Not all.
The entire top row of bolt holes do not tap into any water jackets. If you used sealant on them you are getting a false torque reading.

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

u sure about that?