LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Street/Strip suspension

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Old 01-16-2011, 11:59 PM
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Default Street/Strip suspension

Curious to see what you street strip guys are running for suspension. Still need a torque arm, LCAs/brackets, SFCs? and lowering springs (thinking Stranos or BMR. My car is pretty much all street but I want it to perform well at the track when needed.
Old 01-17-2011, 12:10 AM
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Hey:

Strano for sways and springs, UMI for all else..

Dub
Old 01-17-2011, 06:27 AM
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On the street i cant really tell the suspension is there other then the torque arm firmness when i shift which was immediate. Not much you do when you run 4.10s, M6, and 285/40/17s its like its on ice even when not driving agressive from a stop and leaving from a stop and when getting on it from a roll. As for the strip my car hooks very good i just need to raise my launch rpm and get a technique perfected to get some respectable times.

UMI:
Upper Panhard Bar
Lower Adjustable Panhard Bar
Adjustable Rear LCA's

Suspension Techniques:

25mm Rear Solid Swaybar

Spohn & Custom Fabbed:

Tubular Weldin SFC with a Custom Fabbed HD Track Pack style Adjustable Torque Arm.

Rear Shocks/Springs:

KYB AGX Adjustables and Stock Springs.

Tire:

MT Et Streets on Stock 16s.

Only thing im not running yet is a set of LCA relo brackets which ill end up getting after i get the motor build done and together. Im not sure how much they will help me since running stock height springs???
Old 01-17-2011, 08:26 AM
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lol man I really need to get all my suspension mods installed... when I stab it from a stop the car just squats on the pass rear tire and lights em up.
Old 01-17-2011, 11:14 AM
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I would go all poly ended for a street car. Love all my UMI stuff!
Old 01-17-2011, 11:33 AM
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Not to hijack but i was wondering do the solid non adjustable lcas help over stock? I don't know much about suspension stuff and adjusting so I was looking at the solid LCAs.
Old 01-17-2011, 11:34 AM
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all poly bushings and mounts, umi panhard, kyb agx all around and sportlines(which arent the best at the track) but i cut 1.8-2.0s on that setup on a 275/40/18, stock sways, TA, lcas so forth, needed tire and a better spring in the rear. 4:10's M6
Old 01-17-2011, 08:49 PM
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i have all rodended UMI stuff out back, except for a bmr anti-roll bar. BMR springs out back, with QA1 singles. You want the rod ended stuff if you don't mind the harshness!
Old 01-17-2011, 09:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TheTransporter69
Not to hijack but i was wondering do the solid non adjustable lcas help over stock? I don't know much about suspension stuff and adjusting so I was looking at the solid LCAs.
If you have a 10-bolt you don't really need the adjustables. When you switch to an aftermarket rear you can re-center the wheels in the wheel-well if the LCA mount isn't perfect.

You don't NEED the adjustables, but they are nice to have. I wish I went with them with my 9".
Old 01-17-2011, 10:30 PM
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Non adj is great on a stock rear like Joe said but leaves you no room for adjusting in the fuuture! For the small price upfront just get the adjustable stuff. Rod ended does work better but wears on the street and is super harsh.
Old 01-17-2011, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Wicked94Z
i have all rodended UMI stuff out back, except for a bmr anti-roll bar. BMR springs out back, with QA1 singles. You want the rod ended stuff if you don't mind the harshness!
Ive ridden in my friends Camaro with poly/rod suspension, not a fan at all
Old 01-17-2011, 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by AChotrod
Non adj is great on a stock rear like Joe said but leaves you no room for adjusting in the fuuture! For the small price upfront just get the adjustable stuff. Rod ended does work better but wears on the street and is super harsh.
Think ill go poly/poly from what everyone is saying.
Old 01-17-2011, 10:32 PM
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what about a Torque Arm relocation? how beneficial would that be?
Old 01-17-2011, 10:46 PM
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Originally Posted by hitmanws6
what about a Torque Arm relocation? how beneficial would that be?
That's one less OEM rubber bushing to go bad. For the ease of install there's no reason to NOT go with a torque arm with the g-load brace front mount.
Old 01-17-2011, 10:49 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
That's one less OEM rubber bushing to go bad. For the ease of install there's no reason to NOT go with a torque arm with the g-load brace front mount.
Alright thanks for the input. Id like to get this setup I have now to crack the 11s with the right suspension, then later on swap in a 383 build I plan on starting soon and hit 10s.
Old 01-17-2011, 10:55 PM
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When my car was a DD i had a tunnel mount TA and hated it. Switched back to a full length TA and a UMI trans mount that relocates the TA off the trans and couldnt be happier. I also got better 60fts the way it is now.
Old 01-18-2011, 10:26 AM
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Thanks Ramair and Ac for the tips, Im not sure which ones ill go with yet but there going on my 10 bolt stock rear end.
Old 01-18-2011, 04:19 PM
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Kenny Brown 3pt sfc's
LG Motorsports springs (not sure what drop, but it's on the ground)
KYB AGX's
BMR lca's and relo brackets
M6
4.10's
285/40-17's

Not yet installed:
Double adj. aluminum phr with rod ends
UMI full length TQ arm with trans crossmember for relocation of front mount

No track times cause I DD it and not looking to break the 10 bolt until I have a backup.


Can any of you KYB / AGX users make shock adjustment recommendations?
Old 01-18-2011, 07:56 PM
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the rods ends are far from harsh. there a little noisy from time to time but its not bad at all. I also have a tunnel mounted torque arm. i really cant tell the difference in sound or bad noise compared to a stock one. cant even tell its there. having adjustable LCA's is nice because you can get your wheel perfectly centered.(stock rear)



i guess its all a matter of opinion though....
Old 01-18-2011, 08:03 PM
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My car is LOUD and rattly I can stand a lot, just couldnt take the tunnel mount TA, then again my car is a 6spd so maybe different on a A4. Every time banging the gears it seemed like it wanted to rip the floor pan out


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