Engine Oil Cooler Removal?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
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From: Nebraska
Engine Oil Cooler Removal? Hey guys, while i'm doing my header swap I have to to change a whole bunch of leaky seals and one of them is my oil cooler housing. I've heard of people taking these off completely.
My question is, is it safe to run the car without one? I race a lot and go to the strip also so I wasn't sure about it. Also, if you are able to remove the whole assembly, what all needs to be removed?
My question is, is it safe to run the car without one? I race a lot and go to the strip also so I wasn't sure about it. Also, if you are able to remove the whole assembly, what all needs to be removed?
You can remove it without a problem. It's essentially useless and doesn't provide much benefit, not to mention it just gets in the way half the time. In fact it's so useless that GM stopped offering it as an option in 1996.
All you have to do is remove everything and reuse the stock adapter. Cut off the fat part of the top of the two bolts, and all you need after that is the coolant bypass hose, OR plug the fittings in the lower radiator and water pump.
All you have to do is remove everything and reuse the stock adapter. Cut off the fat part of the top of the two bolts, and all you need after that is the coolant bypass hose, OR plug the fittings in the lower radiator and water pump.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
Likes: 2
From: Nebraska
You can remove it without a problem. It's essentially useless and doesn't provide much benefit, not to mention it just gets in the way half the time. In fact it's so useless that GM stopped offering it as an option in 1996.
All you have to do is remove everything and reuse the stock adapter. Cut off the fat part of the top of the two bolts, and all you need after that is the coolant bypass hose, OR plug the fittings in the lower radiator and water pump.
All you have to do is remove everything and reuse the stock adapter. Cut off the fat part of the top of the two bolts, and all you need after that is the coolant bypass hose, OR plug the fittings in the lower radiator and water pump.
If the OP wants an oil cooler, I highly suggest an aftermarket one because the stock one is just junk.
You can also run a much taller oil filter if you delete the KC4.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 1,740
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From: Nebraska
I 100% agree. But the stock oil cooler has inherent disadvantages. They have been known to clog and cause serious oil pressure issues, and it's design has been proven under certain circumstances to actually HEAT up the oil. Overall it's just a poor design.
If the OP wants an oil cooler, I highly suggest an aftermarket one because the stock one is just junk.
You can also run a much taller oil filter if you delete the KC4.
If the OP wants an oil cooler, I highly suggest an aftermarket one because the stock one is just junk.
You can also run a much taller oil filter if you delete the KC4.
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From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 1,157
Likes: 1
From: Kingfisher Oklahoma
You should find a oil filter adapter (pictured below) bolted to the block after you remove the cooler adapter.
The stock oil cooler sends "chilled" coolant to the oil cooler adapter mounted between the engine block and the oil filter. It supposedly cools the oil and then goes to the front again. The oil never leaves the block/adapter/filter.
If you have radiator and/or waterpump issues, the factory "oil cooler" will heat the oil rather than cool it.
Yank this hodge-podge of a mess out and plumb the hose from the waterpump to the radiator.
If you feel you need a cooler, get a real one with plates like a Earls, not one with just tubes running left to right. You'll need a block sandwich adapter. If you have headers, the sanwich adapter becomes an issue as the hoses will hit the exhaust. I went with the Canton adapter that can be rotated to point the hose fittings where you need it, not into the headers. Somebody wanna buy it?
The stock oil cooler sends "chilled" coolant to the oil cooler adapter mounted between the engine block and the oil filter. It supposedly cools the oil and then goes to the front again. The oil never leaves the block/adapter/filter.
If you have radiator and/or waterpump issues, the factory "oil cooler" will heat the oil rather than cool it.
Yank this hodge-podge of a mess out and plumb the hose from the waterpump to the radiator.
If you feel you need a cooler, get a real one with plates like a Earls, not one with just tubes running left to right. You'll need a block sandwich adapter. If you have headers, the sanwich adapter becomes an issue as the hoses will hit the exhaust. I went with the Canton adapter that can be rotated to point the hose fittings where you need it, not into the headers. Somebody wanna buy it?
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...il-cooler.html
that was my old thread that has a pic of the oil cooler that i had...fortunately you didn't have to go through such a headache like i did lol i was still new to these cars and didn't know that they had 2 different oil coolers that were offered in 95'...and i'm sure a lot of people on here don't know that either unless they had it on theirs lol.
that was my old thread that has a pic of the oil cooler that i had...fortunately you didn't have to go through such a headache like i did lol i was still new to these cars and didn't know that they had 2 different oil coolers that were offered in 95'...and i'm sure a lot of people on here don't know that either unless they had it on theirs lol.
