Im looking at the BMR LT1 k-members and they have two models or standard rack mounts and pinto rack mounts...what is the difference between the two...i dont know what one to get..thanks

 

corresponds with what steering rack you're running.

 

ok what is a pinto steering rack is it better over stock?...i have the stock now but am building my car to run 11's and 10's later on...

 

pinto rack will save you some weight, over a looped factory rack if you want to ditch power steering. It'll be 300-400 bucks for the rack and bumpsteer stuff.

 

is it still safe to run the stock steering no matter how much HP i have...like is it just a weight loss thing?

 

Isn't the Pinto rack non-power?

 

Go with the standard UMI k-member. It fits like a GLOVE and is marginally stronger than the BMR.

 

ok great thanks

 

UMI weighs a ton, get a PA Racing or a BMR.

 

They are a bit heavier yes but they're also stronger. You're only talking a few pound sacrifice for added strength. I suppose we'll let the OP decide what's more important.

 

Yes the pinto rack is a manual rack. No power.

 

Did your UMI come with new hardware like the Spohn does?

 

We are a few pounds heavier than the BMR K-member but we have done this for the street crowd. We have reinforced areas of the K-member that we feel are very vital to a street driven car. Some of the other brands are not designed for street use so make sure you ask and do your research.

As for the rack, the standard version is designed for the factory power steering rack. The pinto style is for a manual pinto rack. The manual racks eliminate the power steering completely so you need to designed which way you want to go. There is also a few a conversion kits out there that adapt manual racks to power steering mounts (we are working on one now) so a manual rack can be used on power steering rack mounts.

I hope that helps,
Ryan

 

FWIW I have NEVER heard of an aftermarket k-member breaking from street use. I have never heard of a stock one breaking either. Maybe someone could enlighten me on why they feel one is stronger than another when none of them have been tested to failure? The "piece of mind" excuse for having an extra bar doesn't make any sense. If that were the case we would ditch our lightweight skinny front tires and go with "stronger" steel front wheels for the added safety and strength. You buy a k-member to shed weight and to free up room for turbo stuff if you go that route. No point in buying a heavy k-member when there are much lighter pieces out there for the same money.

 

There has been aftermarket K-members that have failed, none to recent that I am aware of but there are some posts floating around. Some K-members are recommended for race only and the company will state this.

 

I agree go with UMI i just purchased mine like 3 weeks ago and just got it installed and i love the look and quality of it....i will continue to go with UMI for all my suspension needs.

 

i welded up a bmr k-member that had broken on a car.
hit a big pot hole.

 

I go with UMI everything!! Ive seen posts and pics of broken BMR k-members. Ive also seen the double bar on UMI's K save oil pans, headers etc. Ask Z8s what he runs and why

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.ph...2&pp=25&page=4
theres a ton of threads about broken BMR k-members