BMR LT1 K-Member help??
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Banned
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 78
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From: Florida
BMR LT1 K-Member help?? Im looking at the BMR LT1 k-members and they have two models or standard rack mounts and pinto rack mounts...what is the difference between the two...i dont know what one to get..thanks
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Verdad Gallardo They are a bit heavier yes but they're also stronger. You're only talking a few pound sacrifice for added strength. I suppose we'll let the OP decide what's more important.
We are a few pounds heavier than the BMR K-member but we have done this for the street crowd. We have reinforced areas of the K-member that we feel are very vital to a street driven car. Some of the other brands are not designed for street use so make sure you ask and do your research.
As for the rack, the standard version is designed for the factory power steering rack. The pinto style is for a manual pinto rack. The manual racks eliminate the power steering completely so you need to designed which way you want to go. There is also a few a conversion kits out there that adapt manual racks to power steering mounts (we are working on one now) so a manual rack can be used on power steering rack mounts.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
As for the rack, the standard version is designed for the factory power steering rack. The pinto style is for a manual pinto rack. The manual racks eliminate the power steering completely so you need to designed which way you want to go. There is also a few a conversion kits out there that adapt manual racks to power steering mounts (we are working on one now) so a manual rack can be used on power steering rack mounts.
I hope that helps,
Ryan
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FWIW I have NEVER heard of an aftermarket k-member breaking from street use. I have never heard of a stock one breaking either. Maybe someone could enlighten me on why they feel one is stronger than another when none of them have been tested to failure? The "piece of mind" excuse for having an extra bar doesn't make any sense. If that were the case we would ditch our lightweight skinny front tires and go with "stronger" steel front wheels for the added safety and strength. You buy a k-member to shed weight and to free up room for turbo stuff if you go that route. No point in buying a heavy k-member when there are much lighter pieces out there for the same money.
FWIW I have NEVER heard of an aftermarket k-member breaking from street use. I have never heard of a stock one breaking either. Maybe someone could enlighten me on why they feel one is stronger than another when none of them have been tested to failure? The "piece of mind" excuse for having an extra bar doesn't make any sense. If that were the case we would ditch our lightweight skinny front tires and go with "stronger" steel front wheels for the added safety and strength. You buy a k-member to shed weight and to free up room for turbo stuff if you go that route. No point in buying a heavy k-member when there are much lighter pieces out there for the same money.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2010
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I agree go with UMI i just purchased mine like 3 weeks ago and just got it installed and i love the look and quality of it....i will continue to go with UMI for all my suspension needs.
FWIW I have NEVER heard of an aftermarket k-member breaking from street use. I have never heard of a stock one breaking either. Maybe someone could enlighten me on why they feel one is stronger than another when none of them have been tested to failure? The "piece of mind" excuse for having an extra bar doesn't make any sense. If that were the case we would ditch our lightweight skinny front tires and go with "stronger" steel front wheels for the added safety and strength. You buy a k-member to shed weight and to free up room for turbo stuff if you go that route. No point in buying a heavy k-member when there are much lighter pieces out there for the same money.
hit a big pot hole.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/search.ph...2&pp=25&page=4
theres a ton of threads about broken BMR k-members
theres a ton of threads about broken BMR k-members
