parts needed to finish
#162
It's gonna be the best birthday gift ever to have the car running by my birthday. Now I'm waiting on some people to respond for some parts and that will make everything beautiful. I can't wait to get home so that I can get to putting everything together n get this bitch painted too.
#163
so my tci 3,800 stall came in today. IT LOOKS SWEET!! with the anti-ballooning plate. I'm trying to find a place to take it to so that they can cut it open and clean it all out to make sure that it's all good before I put in.
I'm also looking for a tubular k-member still. I'm trying to keep it at or under $300 shipped.
I should also be getting an electric waterpump on Monday or Tuesday.
After that I am going to need Oil Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge, and Fuel Pressure Gauge.
I'm also looking for a tubular k-member still. I'm trying to keep it at or under $300 shipped.
I should also be getting an electric waterpump on Monday or Tuesday.
After that I am going to need Oil Temp Gauge, Oil Pressure Gauge, and Fuel Pressure Gauge.
#165
Motor should HOPEFULLY be done sometime VERY soon. I'm getting extremely excited because I just purchased a whole UMI front end kit, k-member and upper and lower a-arms. I already got the eibach pro-kit and strange SA shocks, so my front end will be completely done!! Next will be getting my hands on a good deal on a s60.
Within the next 2 weeks I should have the motor and I'll be getting the injectors flow matched along with a computer tune. Then I'm putting the motor together in the living room.
Within the next 2 weeks I should have the motor and I'll be getting the injectors flow matched along with a computer tune. Then I'm putting the motor together in the living room.
#166
so I was able to cross some things off my "Want" list, thanks to the help of the beautiful girl previously pictured, (yea she's awesome)....
the old...
The motor should be here next week, and then the rest of the fun will start. I'm trying to take pics of every step too and when all of it is done I'll be able to show before and after pics of the whole process.
the old...
The motor should be here next week, and then the rest of the fun will start. I'm trying to take pics of every step too and when all of it is done I'll be able to show before and after pics of the whole process.
#168
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so I was able to cross some things off my "Want" list, thanks to the help of the beautiful girl previously pictured, (yea she's awesome)....
the old...
The motor should be here next week, and then the rest of the fun will start. I'm trying to take pics of every step too and when all of it is done I'll be able to show before and after pics of the whole process.
the old...
The motor should be here next week, and then the rest of the fun will start. I'm trying to take pics of every step too and when all of it is done I'll be able to show before and after pics of the whole process.
#172
^^ sam I'm coming for you buddy!! we'll have almost identical cars, ebony and ivory!! hahaha
and rob idk, i haven't seen your ride yet so we'll have to see. I hope to have this all together and down the GLD track by the end of June, but being unemployed gives me a lot more free time to work on the car
and rob idk, i haven't seen your ride yet so we'll have to see. I hope to have this all together and down the GLD track by the end of June, but being unemployed gives me a lot more free time to work on the car
#173
so just a little update, I picked up a CSR electric waterpump from a fellow ls1tech member, GREAT PIECE!! now I just have to figure out how to hook it up because I don't really know how to do any of that.
I'm still waiting on the motor so I'm trying to get everything done besides that to try and make things easier when I move out to Harvard July 1st. I will be cleaning the underside of the car and applying DUPLICOLOR rubberized undercoating to help prevent any future rust and just to see how it looks and works. I'm also going to be rolling the fenders to get the slicks to fit. I should also be putting just about all of the interior back in as well so it looks like a real car again!!
As soon as I accomplish some more things, I will make sure to post up some pictures!!
I'm still waiting on the motor so I'm trying to get everything done besides that to try and make things easier when I move out to Harvard July 1st. I will be cleaning the underside of the car and applying DUPLICOLOR rubberized undercoating to help prevent any future rust and just to see how it looks and works. I'm also going to be rolling the fenders to get the slicks to fit. I should also be putting just about all of the interior back in as well so it looks like a real car again!!
As soon as I accomplish some more things, I will make sure to post up some pictures!!
#175
I'm moving to Harvard cuz I don't wanna pay $950/month to live in a 1 bedroom apt. anymore. The place I'm moving to is my gf's, friends house. They are going to be traveling ALOT and they said we could just live there and all we have to pay is water and half the utilities. Pretty sweet deal for a 4k sq. ft. house on about 4 acres. WITH A GARAGE so the camaro will be protected. We're also getting a german shepard puppy so it will be a good place to train him n let him run around haha
ANYWHO.... got the underside of the car cleaned yesterday, after work I'll be going to get the Duplicolor Rubberized Undercoating and I'm going to apply that tonight and see how that goes...should be fun.
I also ordered up a set of hood pins from Year One for a Mopar, they're stainless so I don't have to worry about them rusting and looking nasty.
Waiting on the motor still, at this point it's looking like I'll be lucky to get it in before I have to move so I'm not keeping my hopes up and I'm trying to get everything else done.
Also as for the painless wiring harness, I'm not really sure how that thing works, I have the connector coming off the water pump but it doesn't look like the painless harness plugs into that...maybe I'm wrong but for stuff like that I need idiot proof step-by-step instructions.
ANYWHO.... got the underside of the car cleaned yesterday, after work I'll be going to get the Duplicolor Rubberized Undercoating and I'm going to apply that tonight and see how that goes...should be fun.
I also ordered up a set of hood pins from Year One for a Mopar, they're stainless so I don't have to worry about them rusting and looking nasty.
Waiting on the motor still, at this point it's looking like I'll be lucky to get it in before I have to move so I'm not keeping my hopes up and I'm trying to get everything else done.
Also as for the painless wiring harness, I'm not really sure how that thing works, I have the connector coming off the water pump but it doesn't look like the painless harness plugs into that...maybe I'm wrong but for stuff like that I need idiot proof step-by-step instructions.
#176
so at this point there is no way I'm going to have the car running by the end of the month. so my birthday goal is to get it all one color, and in full roller status minus the motor.
I have a question about the motor though. The motor that I will be receiving has stock re-conditioned rods with ARP rod bolts, I'm looking to swap them out for SCAT forged rods....how hard is it to replace them? and what is the difference between I-beams and H-beam rods?
I have a question about the motor though. The motor that I will be receiving has stock re-conditioned rods with ARP rod bolts, I'm looking to swap them out for SCAT forged rods....how hard is it to replace them? and what is the difference between I-beams and H-beam rods?
#177
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In that case make sure you get rods for the pressed on pistons like your factory rods are....unless someone had your stock rods set up for floating wrist pins. Also, I'd use the 4340 I-beam ones with capscrews instead of a bolt/nut arrangement....preferrably in 7/16" size. Last but most importantly, get your rotating assembly re-balanced after you get your new rods. You don't wanna shake your new motor apart.
#178
The motor that I'm going to be getting currently has Speed Pro forged pistons with stock re-conditioned rods with ARP rod bolts.
These are the ones I was thinking of going with...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700716/
with these bearings...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLE-CB663HN/
good or bad idea??
These are the ones I was thinking of going with...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SCA-25700716/
with these bearings...http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLE-CB663HN/
good or bad idea??
#179
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Those are the rods I was talking about, except I'm pretty sure you will need the version for press fit wrist pins. The part # you linked is for floating pins. If your Speed Pro pistons are the ones 99% of people use, then they are press fit and have no provisions for using floating pins. You wouldn't have any way to retain the pin with spiro locs or snap rings. The good news is that the press fit version of those rods is usually about $20 or 30 cheaper.
As for the bearings...those should be good, but I think a standard series of Clevite or Michigan 77 (or Federal Mogul or King or other name brand) would be fine.
As for the bearings...those should be good, but I think a standard series of Clevite or Michigan 77 (or Federal Mogul or King or other name brand) would be fine.
#180
one last question, if they say the crank has been cut 10/10, what does that mean? does that mean I have to look for bearings that are undersized? and do you think that would be in Inches or Millimeters.
I also looked at summit and the only ones that have 7/16" provisions are 6.100 in length, I thought I need, 5.7....idk what to do. maybe I'll just keep the new stock re-conditioned rods. Does anyone know what hp they are rated to?
I also looked at summit and the only ones that have 7/16" provisions are 6.100 in length, I thought I need, 5.7....idk what to do. maybe I'll just keep the new stock re-conditioned rods. Does anyone know what hp they are rated to?
Last edited by am_muscl; 06-08-2011 at 11:35 PM.