LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Found some damage to my valvetrain! A Little Help?

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Old 02-14-2011, 02:47 PM
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A cc306 with just a decent spring like a Pat gold would not need a AFR rev kit at all. Again those lobes are rather tame compared to todays modern lobes like the XFI etc and I have never once read where anyone had a valve control issue on the cc306.

If it were me, that rev kit would be coming off right away because it eliminates even a slim chance of it being the problem plus it removes 16 additional moving parts.
Old 02-14-2011, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by SPDEMON
I don't think the rev kit did any of this damage. The AFR Hydra Rev kit is a great part that eliminates valve float at high rpm, increasing the overall stability of the valvetrain.

IMO the hydra-rev is a waste of money, and masks other issues you may have had with your valve train. A lot of us run way more wicked cam lobes than a 306 without needing this part to stabilize the valve train. If you're still concerned, ditch the hydra-rev and invest in shaft mounts.
Old 02-14-2011, 04:10 PM
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First of all, the REV KIT came on the car when I bought it. So I don't really need guys telling me it's a waste of money and all that.

I did not build this car/set-up. The Heads, Cam, and intake were already done when I bought it.

I tweaked the car in other areas to get the set-up to run a little better.

at this point I am going to have to figure out what kind of set-up to run on the new motor.

I have to run the same cam because I have no options on a re-tune. At all. Sux. I'm in Hawaii, we only have 2 dynos on the island, and my car is set-up with an ACCEL GEN 6 Digital EFi control unit.

Anyone have an idea on a different cam I could run without a re-tune?
Old 02-14-2011, 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by SPDEMON
First of all, the REV KIT came on the car when I bought it. So I don't really need guys telling me it's a waste of money and all that.

I did not build this car/set-up. The Heads, Cam, and intake were already done when I bought it.

I tweaked the car in other areas to get the set-up to run a little better.

at this point I am going to have to figure out what kind of set-up to run on the new motor.

I have to run the same cam because I have no options on a re-tune. At all. Sux. I'm in Hawaii, we only have 2 dynos on the island, and my car is set-up with an ACCEL GEN 6 Digital EFi control unit.

Anyone have an idea on a different cam I could run without a re-tune?
Don't get bent out of shape when the truth is told about the Hydra-Rev kit. Fact is a properly setup valvetrain doesn't need it. SS MPSTR is 100% correct.

To run another cam properly, you need another tune, period. Your best option is probably going to be a mail-order tune to get a good baseline then a dyno-tune thereafter. I'm sure someone between those two shops can help tune your car.
Old 02-14-2011, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by SPDEMON
First of all, the REV KIT came on the car when I bought it. So I don't really need guys telling me it's a waste of money and all that.
Nobody claimed it to be a waste of money. We claimed it to not really be needed for your setup. But considering you are now in overly-defensive mode when you asked for assistance on a public message board, we clearly must be wasting our time trying to help you.

I wish you luck resolving your matter.
Old 02-14-2011, 06:35 PM
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Originally Posted by wrd1972
Nobody claimed it to be a waste of money. We claimed it to not really be needed for your setup. But considering you are now in overly-defensive mode when you asked for assistance on a public message board, we clearly must be wasting our time trying to help you.

I wish you luck resolving your matter.
IMO the hydra-rev is a waste of money, and masks other issues you may have had with your valve train. A lot of us run way more wicked cam lobes than a 306 without needing this part to stabilize the valve train. If you're still concerned, ditch the hydra-rev and invest in shaft mounts.

Why does every thread get way off topic and then become a big misunderstanding??????? He has the hydra rev kit, if i had it i would use it if i planned on rev up high, they have been used in SBC for a very long time. He was asking if he could use a diffrent cam with the tune he has. NO you can not without a new tune like said already. Do the shops not have updated software to tune LS1/LT1?
Old 02-14-2011, 09:21 PM
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Originally Posted by 96TransAmboosted
IMO the hydra-rev is a waste of money, and masks other issues you may have had with your valve train. A lot of us run way more wicked cam lobes than a 306 without needing this part to stabilize the valve train. If you're still concerned, ditch the hydra-rev and invest in shaft mounts.

Why does every thread get way off topic and then become a big misunderstanding??????? He has the hydra rev kit, if i had it i would use it if i planned on rev up high, they have been used in SBC for a very long time. He was asking if he could use a diffrent cam with the tune he has. NO you can not without a new tune like said already. Do the shops not have updated software to tune LS1/LT1?
The shops here are not high tec performance shops. They do more of the imports scene anyway.

The Gen 6 DFI system requires specialized software unique to that system, and someone that really understands it to tune it.

Anyway,

I AM NOT GETTING OFFENDED OR ANYTHING, TAKE IT EASY. I'm just stating the facts.

The set-up is not ideal and I know that.

I've just done the best I could with what I've got, and made some changes to try and optimize it.

I am in a position now where I have to make some choices, so I am here on a public message boad getting some ideas. No need to get upset if I disagree with anyof you, as you have the right to do so with me.

SO, At what kind of high RPMS is a REV kit become a critical part of the equation?
Old 02-14-2011, 09:28 PM
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Originally Posted by SPDEMON
SO, At what kind of high RPMS is a REV kit become a critical part of the equation?
With the proper valve springs, lifter control, and overall setup, it's never critical.
Old 02-15-2011, 07:50 AM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
With the proper valve springs, lifter control, and overall setup, it's never critical.
Maybe on a NA car but high reving Boost cars have a big issue with valve float and i have seen time and again The hydra rev help to fix the issue. I have seen the proper springs used and still encounter valve float on the high end and cause engine damage in some cases.

OP have you talked with these shops to see if they could help at all or if they planned on updating software? If they tune then im sure with some time getting to know the new program they could get you up and going..... They may even know someone else on the island that could help you. Its a small place out there and im sure your not the first one with an lt/ls....
Old 02-15-2011, 09:36 PM
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rev kits are sillyness, if you're having valvetrain control issues there is a problem in your valvetrain
Old 02-15-2011, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SPDEMON
I don't think the rev kit did any of this damage. The AFR Hydra Rev kit is a great part that eliminates valve float at high rpm, increasing the overall stability of the valvetrain.

At this point I'm over trying to figure out why it happened. I just want to fix it and get the car back on the road. Its been dead for over a year now.

I already have a set of new Patriot Gold Springs on the heads, and a set of new LS7 lifters.

I'm just gonna rebuild the bottom end and forge it, then try again.
It happened because you ran your springs way too long and you got valve float. If your lifters are that bad there's a 99% chance you cam is toast too.
Old 02-15-2011, 10:09 PM
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Originally Posted by SPDEMON
The Gen 6 DFI system requires specialized software unique to that system, and someone that really understands it to tune it.
Don't be afraid of the Gen 6. If you already have a decent tune that has good drivability you are only looking at minor changes to the fuel and spark maps. A decent AFR meter is pretty much all you will need to guide you.

I would get rid of the rev-kit when you change the cam. Get springs to match the new cam plus good lifters and you will be OK.
Old 02-15-2011, 10:26 PM
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hey gizmo, if you could pm me your phone number or if you have AIM or something... I have some questions about tuning the Tau and "accelerator pump" tables. It would be great if you could give me some guidance, I have a real fat spot coming off the transbrake, but also it goes lean brake stalling the car
Old 02-16-2011, 01:47 AM
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Ive heard a lot of bad reviews from the owners of Comp 918s. My friend broke 3 in under 20K on his cam only 503 setup. Time for a top end refresh
Old 02-16-2011, 02:37 AM
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Well at this point I'm gonna have to go ahead and just do the bottom end.

I will probably just run the exact same set-up save for going .030 overbore on the cylinders.

I'm not gonna re-tune it.

I know I sound stubborn, but I know the "hot-shot" rod builder around here and he can't touch the tune I have right now.

I picked up some serious power from a re-tune here: https://ls1tech.com/forums/dynamomet...lt1-today.html

I should have listened to my instinct and did the springs sooner.

The car runs good enough for me when its running. So no biggie there.

I already have new lifters, springs, and pushrods.

LS7 Lifters, Patriot Gold Extreme's, and COMP Chromemoly pushrods. I'll be re-using my COMP Magnum rocker arms.

So I guess its just time to find a rebuild kit that suits my needs!



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