24x Kit, A Couple Questions
24x Kit, A Couple Questions I know this is getting to be a popular item in here, but I'm wondering what you guys have spent for a total cost to get this setup.
I developed a horrible misfire right at the end of my driving season and I have a feeling I ruined another opti. The first one the bearing went out of it and the rotor would wobble and I think that 3 years of 7k rpms finally took its toll on my new one.
I really haven't got into finding the problem right now, I have other projects in line first, but it obviously has to get fixed.
Now back to the 24x kit, I have plans for a new motor and would like to set up the kit on my current motor and work out the bugs before hand so I don't have to do it with a fresh motor.
But I'm curious to see what you guys have spent on the kit, I know the prices are on their site, but I also know that the little extra bits and pieces can add up quick.
And has anyone been successful fitting a double roller timing chain with the kit? And if so whats involved with fitting them together.
Thanks in advance and sorry if its been gone over, I thought I looked over most of the 24x threads
I developed a horrible misfire right at the end of my driving season and I have a feeling I ruined another opti. The first one the bearing went out of it and the rotor would wobble and I think that 3 years of 7k rpms finally took its toll on my new one.
I really haven't got into finding the problem right now, I have other projects in line first, but it obviously has to get fixed.
Now back to the 24x kit, I have plans for a new motor and would like to set up the kit on my current motor and work out the bugs before hand so I don't have to do it with a fresh motor.
But I'm curious to see what you guys have spent on the kit, I know the prices are on their site, but I also know that the little extra bits and pieces can add up quick.
And has anyone been successful fitting a double roller timing chain with the kit? And if so whats involved with fitting them together.
Thanks in advance and sorry if its been gone over, I thought I looked over most of the 24x threads
what i know so far This is what I know so far. Im going to be doing this very soon, if your not picky about some of the parts you can scrounge them up used. Like the coils, coil harness, pcm, and brackets. You can probably find all of that stuff for around $250. Ok, now onto your questions.
As far as a double roller with the 24x kit you HAVE to buy their billet timing cover. Then you will have to machine the hub for the extra space of the double sprocket and the reluctor. Im personally hoping the professional products hub im gonna order will work without machining since it comes with so many spacers.
As far as a double roller with the 24x kit you HAVE to buy their billet timing cover. Then you will have to machine the hub for the extra space of the double sprocket and the reluctor. Im personally hoping the professional products hub im gonna order will work without machining since it comes with so many spacers.
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Let's talk 1996-97 LT1 engines and a double row timing set...
The clearance between the crank seal area of the timing cover and 4x crank reluctor is minimal as GM designed it. If one were to make a new 4x reluctor that first cleared a double row timing chain on the back side (toward crank timing sprocket) and second was dished out on the front side to clear the crank seal area of the timing cover, you will find that there is no material remaining of the reluctor. So that means you must move the crank seal area of the timing cover forward. Your next problem is that the lower optispark "leg" or mount is significantly limiting the distance the crank seal can move forward.
This is the issue with the GM timing cover, double row timing set, and crank reluctor.
The clearance between the crank seal area of the timing cover and 4x crank reluctor is minimal as GM designed it. If one were to make a new 4x reluctor that first cleared a double row timing chain on the back side (toward crank timing sprocket) and second was dished out on the front side to clear the crank seal area of the timing cover, you will find that there is no material remaining of the reluctor. So that means you must move the crank seal area of the timing cover forward. Your next problem is that the lower optispark "leg" or mount is significantly limiting the distance the crank seal can move forward.
This is the issue with the GM timing cover, double row timing set, and crank reluctor.
Let's talk 1996-97 LT1 engines and a double row timing set...
The clearance between the crank seal area of the timing cover and 4x crank reluctor is minimal as GM designed it. If one were to make a new 4x reluctor that first cleared a double row timing chain on the back side (toward crank timing sprocket) and second was dished out on the front side to clear the crank seal area of the timing cover, you will find that there is no material remaining of the reluctor. So that means you must move the crank seal area of the timing cover forward. Your next problem is that the lower optispark "leg" or mount is significantly limiting the distance the crank seal can move forward.
This is the issue with the GM timing cover, double row timing set, and crank reluctor.
The clearance between the crank seal area of the timing cover and 4x crank reluctor is minimal as GM designed it. If one were to make a new 4x reluctor that first cleared a double row timing chain on the back side (toward crank timing sprocket) and second was dished out on the front side to clear the crank seal area of the timing cover, you will find that there is no material remaining of the reluctor. So that means you must move the crank seal area of the timing cover forward. Your next problem is that the lower optispark "leg" or mount is significantly limiting the distance the crank seal can move forward.
This is the issue with the GM timing cover, double row timing set, and crank reluctor.
It is absolutely not compatible with the LS1 pcm. I burned through 3 transmissions doing this (I was basically the guinea pig).
The pump, valve body and seperator plate are all different. It is not jsut a converter locking issue (I got mine to lock fine). It will bleed off pressure and cause it not to be stable. Your 3-4 clutch pack will fail after some time. You have been warned!!!! lol
The pump, valve body and seperator plate are all different. It is not jsut a converter locking issue (I got mine to lock fine). It will bleed off pressure and cause it not to be stable. Your 3-4 clutch pack will fail after some time. You have been warned!!!! lol
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It is absolutely not compatible with the LS1 pcm. I burned through 3 transmissions doing this (I was basically the guinea pig).
The pump, valve body and seperator plate are all different. It is not jsut a converter locking issue (I got mine to lock fine). It will bleed off pressure and cause it not to be stable. Your 3-4 clutch pack will fail after some time. You have been warned!!!! lol
The pump, valve body and seperator plate are all different. It is not jsut a converter locking issue (I got mine to lock fine). It will bleed off pressure and cause it not to be stable. Your 3-4 clutch pack will fail after some time. You have been warned!!!! lol
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Verdad Gallardo Ok so can I do a billet timing cover, double roller, and then turn down the hub to keep the belt in line with everything else?
I have a Cloyes double roller timing chain, stock cover and stock 95 crank hub and absolutely no issues at all. I would like to keep the double roller, it just makes me feel a little more comfortable
Now as far as cost I know I can get used parts, but I also know there is a gamble doing so.
I have a Cloyes double roller timing chain, stock cover and stock 95 crank hub and absolutely no issues at all. I would like to keep the double roller, it just makes me feel a little more comfortable
Now as far as cost I know I can get used parts, but I also know there is a gamble doing so.
Yes, you need to either swap to a 96-97 housing with all the late model parts OR you can take your trans out of the car and swap to the newer valve body (and electronics), newer seperator plate, and the newer pump.
I was nervous doing this conversion with an early year 60e, but at the time EFI told me that it should work just fine with tuning. They never gave me any reasoning on why I NEED to run a 96-97 trans. $1000's of dollars later I learned the lesson and now I try to warn everyone else
A common misconception here is that this will cost over $2K. Not true. If you purchased the entire EVERYTHING from EFI Connection's site, then yes, you'd probably be touching $2K.
I bought almost the entire kit (everything but coils) with the pre-made 'plug n play' harness lightly used for $1100. My coils were $100. Wires another $100 (LSX DIY MSD's). So for $1300 I was up and running.
What's the big deal about double rollers? There are single roller cars out there that are drag only turning 10K+ rpms that run single rollers. I'm making pretty damn big power, and I'm also running a single roller without issue.
To me, running a double roller with this setup is more of a PITA than bargained for. And the cost goes up significantly, without the same ratio of benefit increase.
I'm sure with more scrounging than I did and re-pinning your own harness, the 24x conversion can be had for around $1K.
I bought almost the entire kit (everything but coils) with the pre-made 'plug n play' harness lightly used for $1100. My coils were $100. Wires another $100 (LSX DIY MSD's). So for $1300 I was up and running.
What's the big deal about double rollers? There are single roller cars out there that are drag only turning 10K+ rpms that run single rollers. I'm making pretty damn big power, and I'm also running a single roller without issue.
To me, running a double roller with this setup is more of a PITA than bargained for. And the cost goes up significantly, without the same ratio of benefit increase.
I'm sure with more scrounging than I did and re-pinning your own harness, the 24x conversion can be had for around $1K.
A common misconception here is that this will cost over $2K. Not true. If you purchased the entire EVERYTHING from EFI Connection's site, then yes, you'd probably be touching $2K.
I bought almost the entire kit (everything but coils) with the pre-made 'plug n play' harness lightly used for $1100. My coils were $100. Wires another $100 (LSX DIY MSD's). So for $1300 I was up and running.
What's the big deal about double rollers? There are single roller cars out there that are drag only turning 10K+ rpms that run single rollers. I'm making pretty damn big power, and I'm also running a single roller without issue.
To me, running a double roller with this setup is more of a PITA than bargained for. And the cost goes up significantly, without the same ratio of benefit increase.
I'm sure with more scrounging than I did and re-pinning your own harness, the 24x conversion can be had for around $1K.
I bought almost the entire kit (everything but coils) with the pre-made 'plug n play' harness lightly used for $1100. My coils were $100. Wires another $100 (LSX DIY MSD's). So for $1300 I was up and running.
What's the big deal about double rollers? There are single roller cars out there that are drag only turning 10K+ rpms that run single rollers. I'm making pretty damn big power, and I'm also running a single roller without issue.
To me, running a double roller with this setup is more of a PITA than bargained for. And the cost goes up significantly, without the same ratio of benefit increase.
I'm sure with more scrounging than I did and re-pinning your own harness, the 24x conversion can be had for around $1K.
And I'm not planning on getting everything from EFI, but I'm getting the harness, possibly the timing cover, and maybe some other stuff I don't know yet.
But what coils are the recomended ones to get? I'm still debating if I should drop the coin to get this or just get another opti and hope for the best.
The sky is the limit with coil mounting, you can do anything you want. Moroso makes extension harnesses for the main harness to coil sets, but Casper's can make them any length you want (I custom ordered a set from them and ended up not needing them).
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TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 456
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TECH Regular
Joined: Jan 2005
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A few threads...
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...0e+differences
http://www.impalassforum.com/vBullet...d.php?t=227225