LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

template/guide for porting heads?

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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:16 AM
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Default template/guide for porting heads?

doing a cam swap on my lt1 (on a budget) soon. wondering if gm or anyone makes something to help with porting heads? dont really have the money to have them sent out, and this would be my first port job so i'd like to have a little insurance that im not going to remove too much or too little inside the runner. anyone know of anything?
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:49 AM
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Its super easy to screw up a port job, with that said buy some cheap ones to practice on before jumping in and working the heads you plan to run
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by greenZ96
Its super easy to screw up a port job, with that said buy some cheap ones to practice on before jumping in and working the heads you plan to run

^^ what he said, Everyone thinks that "Porting" is so simple, there are a lot of physics involved, where, how much, angle of port ect.You must understand the properties of air flow, swirl, tumble, turbulence. There was a speed shop that the owner just hogged out the ports on his own car to make a point, well he did, his car ran 3/10ths slower as all of his customers cars he ported. There is the short side of the radius, understand what this means? then don't do it.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 08:59 AM
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and the runner is the least critical area to worry about. The bowl is much more important!
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 10:56 AM
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LESS IS ALWAYS MORE !!!! just do the basics like gasket matching a inch or two in the runner and smooth all the bumps and ridges make it smooth not shiny but it is ok to polish the exhaust runners and chamber but just remember only those two areas....as for the bowl just be carful not to nick the seats or guides and use a sand cartridge roller before using a carbide cutter....
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 11:39 AM
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As stated above, if you are not going all out, bowl work will be where you see the most gains. The next would be in the short radius.

I would recommend against gasket matching. If you don't do any runner work you can create a mess. A better bet is to use the 1996-97 intake manifold.

Cam choice is also key. If you do the above work the heads will go static at about .500 lift.

You don,t have to hog everything out to make power. Velocity is your friend here.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by moehorsepower
^^ what he said, Everyone thinks that "Porting" is so simple, there are a lot of physics involved, where, how much, angle of port ect.You must understand the properties of air flow, swirl, tumble, turbulence. There was a speed shop that the owner just hogged out the ports on his own car to make a point, well he did, his car ran 3/10ths slower as all of his customers cars he ported. There is the short side of the radius, understand what this means? then don't do it.
i understand that guys often think they know exactly what they are doing when they don't bc they are ignorant, egotistical etc etc.. so i see a lot of posts on here from experienced members trying to deter others from doing their own port work. i dont pretend to know exactly what i'm doing, (although i do think i know some) and i dont think that "porting" is simple either. there is a reason guys pay a lot of money to have professionals do it... i am on a budget... i've never done it b4, but everyone who has ported heads had never done it b4 at some point right? i am mechanically inclined and am confident i could have success doing it. however i AM concerned i may do more damage than good due to lack of experience, which is why i am asking questions hoping to get insightful answers.

to answer your question i believe the short side radius is the bend on the bottom side going down into the bowl. the bend is sharp, like a right angle and this in essence 'kinks' air flow. smoothing out the top of this bend to 'straighten' air flow increases power. i also understand that making this 'arch' taller is not advantageous so more harm than good is done by messing with the top, but to widen the bend by focusing more on the bottom shelf is what you want. if i'm wrong, i'm wrong. this is just what i have been told by a few ppl that should know.

but what i was asking and still havent had answered is.. is there any kind of guide that is sold for doing this? some kind of template? figured they may be available through GM.. i know that mopar makes them as one of my friends has used them to port a couple of sets of heads for 440 builds.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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When I did my first port job, I had pictures galore of ported LT1 heads and how everything was shaped. Pictures and search other sites on how to's.

Take your time and you'll be fine. Everyone making it out like its the hardest thing to do, but if you know what you need to remove, you wont do more harm then good.
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 01:46 PM
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Originally Posted by RB5509
i understand that guys often think they know exactly what they are doing when they don't bc they are ignorant, egotistical etc etc.. so i see a lot of posts on here from experienced members trying to deter others from doing their own port work. i dont pretend to know exactly what i'm doing, (although i do think i know some) and i dont think that "porting" is simple either. there is a reason guys pay a lot of money to have professionals do it... i am on a budget... i've never done it b4, but everyone who has ported heads had never done it b4 at some point right? i am mechanically inclined and am confident i could have success doing it. however i AM concerned i may do more damage than good due to lack of experience, which is why i am asking questions hoping to get insightful answers.

to answer your question i believe the short side radius is the bend on the bottom side going down into the bowl. the bend is sharp, like a right angle and this in essence 'kinks' air flow. smoothing out the top of this bend to 'straighten' air flow increases power. i also understand that making this 'arch' taller is not advantageous so more harm than good is done by messing with the top, but to widen the bend by focusing more on the bottom shelf is what you want. if i'm wrong, i'm wrong. this is just what i have been told by a few ppl that should know.

but what i was asking and still havent had answered is.. is there any kind of guide that is sold for doing this? some kind of template? figured they may be available through GM.. i know that mopar makes them as one of my friends has used them to port a couple of sets of heads for 440 builds.
One, what Gizmo said , Key word "Velocity" and to answer your question about a guide, Yes, I purchased a porting kit years ago, dont remember the name of the company but they also sent me a video on basic porting, You might ask the company you plan to purchase the kit from if they have something like this..If I knew where the video was I would give it to you.
Its VHS so that how long ago it was..
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Old Feb 15, 2011 | 07:27 PM
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I beleive you're referring to "Standard Abrasives" they offer a basic porting video and they have all kinds/shapes of porting tools. Google them and you'll see what I mean and good luck with your project, just don't forget to take it to a good machine shop and get your valve job done.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 05:22 AM
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You really need a flow bench if you want to port heads right, or access to one that you can use an unlimited amount of time. LT1 heads really need work just about everywhere but the port floor, and the gasket area. Pushrod pinch and venturi need to be opened up, roof needs to be raised, short sideradius reworked. Once the port roof, bowl, shortside radius is done then you need a flow bench. Find the venturi size that works best for your port but usually 88-91%. If the shortside is laid back pretty good and the port is real wide over the shortside with the roof raised a lot over shortside, you can get by with 91% and get over 270 CFM from the 1.94 intake valve. If you open the venturi up too much, it will allow more air coming thru than you want and the air speed over the short side will be way too high. I would start at 88% and measure the velocity over the shortside. As long as you can keep the air below 260 FPS, keep going larger until it is in the 260 FPS range. this will offer the most CFM with the air being the right speed.

If you understand and can do all of that above go ahead and port them.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MICHZ28
You really need a flow bench if you want to port heads right, or access to one that you can use an unlimited amount of time. LT1 heads really need work just about everywhere but the port floor, and the gasket area. Pushrod pinch and venturi need to be opened up, roof needs to be raised, short sideradius reworked. Once the port roof, bowl, shortside radius is done then you need a flow bench. Find the venturi size that works best for your port but usually 88-91%. If the shortside is laid back pretty good and the port is real wide over the shortside with the roof raised a lot over shortside, you can get by with 91% and get over 270 CFM from the 1.94 intake valve. If you open the venturi up too much, it will allow more air coming thru than you want and the air speed over the short side will be way too high. I would start at 88% and measure the velocity over the shortside. As long as you can keep the air below 260 FPS, keep going larger until it is in the 260 FPS range. this will offer the most CFM with the air being the right speed.

If you understand and can do all of that above go ahead and port them.
question for ya: when was the flow bench invented? im pretty sure ppl have been porting heads longer than it has been around... im not trying to build a space shuttle, just wanna pick up a couple tenths. if you understand that then good. if not, i don't know how to word it in a way you would understand. im pretty sure that if my budget wont allow me to send my heads out to be ported, it also won't give me unlimited access to a flowbench (there is probably only a handful of them in ohio)
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 03:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MICHZ28
You really need a flow bench if you want to port heads right, or access to one that you can use an unlimited amount of time. LT1 heads really need work just about everywhere but the port floor, and the gasket area. Pushrod pinch and venturi need to be opened up, roof needs to be raised, short sideradius reworked. Once the port roof, bowl, shortside radius is done then you need a flow bench. Find the venturi size that works best for your port but usually 88-91%. If the shortside is laid back pretty good and the port is real wide over the shortside with the roof raised a lot over shortside, you can get by with 91% and get over 270 CFM from the 1.94 intake valve. If you open the venturi up too much, it will allow more air coming thru than you want and the air speed over the short side will be way too high. I would start at 88% and measure the velocity over the shortside. As long as you can keep the air below 260 FPS, keep going larger until it is in the 260 FPS range. this will offer the most CFM with the air being the right speed

If you understand and can do all of that above go ahead and port them.
The best engine builder i know and a well known from were i live never uses a flow bench when porting, unless upon request
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 03:47 PM
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To answer your question, there have been various types of flow benches since whenever airflow had to be measured. Moot point.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:50 PM
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SBC heads have never been ported so noone know how to do it.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by WS Sick
SBC heads have never been ported so noone know how to do it.
Very true. Only way power will be made is through AIs wizardry
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
Very true. Only way power will be made is through AIs wizardry
True true

(disclaimer* yes I know they do awesome work)
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by gregrob
Very true. Only way power will be made is through AIs wizardry
3 months ago you were set on using AI stuff, till you picked up a second-hand set of LE heads. Now you're anti-AI...

**** cracks me up.
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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
3 months ago you were set on using AI stuff, till you picked up a second-hand set of LE heads. Now you're anti-AI...

**** cracks me up.
1 Did not pick up a set of 2nd hand LE heads... I picked up used virgin trick flows and sent them to Lloyd

2 This post was specifically intended to rile you AI loverboys up. Glad you took the bait.


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Old Feb 16, 2011 | 09:15 PM
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Well aren't you cunning!

When is your motor going to be done?
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