Help me build my shortblock!
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 444
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
Help me build my shortblock! Hello all, so I recently found that I had 4 damaged/galled lifters and my cam is trashed.
I want to build a forged shortblock and get my car back on the road.
The plan is to get all of the parts together and pull my motor and re-build it. The other option is to purchase a built shortblock and have it shipped.
Because of the complexity of my situation, I will not be able to re-tune the car so the set-up cannot change much, if at all. I have a DFI system and live in Hawaii, which means I won't be letting one of the 2 shops here that have a dyno mess with my tune.
This means that the compression, cam, degree of the cam, and further will have to be the same, if not EXTREMELY close.
The last time I dynoed the car, it put down 388rwhp/381 rwtq. at about 5800 rpm (with worn out springs).
The A/F ratio was pretty rich at around 11.6 or so if I remember correctly. When we first installed the new injectors the car was down in the 9's when it came to a/f ratio, and the mid - high 11's was as good as it would get.
I will be using the exact same heads, and the same COMP CC306 cam (not the same, but a new one). I know it's not the best option these days, but the car runs strong enough for me with that cam, and I know that if I run another cam, the tune is worthless.
So being that the A/F ration was a tad rich, would running a 383 stroker be a wise move?
Otherwise I was just going to go .030 over and call it a day.
This is kind of on a budget so:
Which parts - Crank, pistons, rods, bearings, etc should I go with?
Thanks guys, Matt
I want to build a forged shortblock and get my car back on the road.
The plan is to get all of the parts together and pull my motor and re-build it. The other option is to purchase a built shortblock and have it shipped.
Because of the complexity of my situation, I will not be able to re-tune the car so the set-up cannot change much, if at all. I have a DFI system and live in Hawaii, which means I won't be letting one of the 2 shops here that have a dyno mess with my tune.
This means that the compression, cam, degree of the cam, and further will have to be the same, if not EXTREMELY close.
The last time I dynoed the car, it put down 388rwhp/381 rwtq. at about 5800 rpm (with worn out springs).
The A/F ratio was pretty rich at around 11.6 or so if I remember correctly. When we first installed the new injectors the car was down in the 9's when it came to a/f ratio, and the mid - high 11's was as good as it would get.
I will be using the exact same heads, and the same COMP CC306 cam (not the same, but a new one). I know it's not the best option these days, but the car runs strong enough for me with that cam, and I know that if I run another cam, the tune is worthless.
So being that the A/F ration was a tad rich, would running a 383 stroker be a wise move?
Otherwise I was just going to go .030 over and call it a day.
This is kind of on a budget so:
Which parts - Crank, pistons, rods, bearings, etc should I go with?
Thanks guys, Matt
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 444
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
Then it would run like ***. If I put it back to stock it would still have the tune for the current set-up in it.
What is beyond absolutely rediculous is that the one thing i tell everyone I will not change is all you guys want to talk about. I am happy with the way the car ran before the damage. I just want it back to that, but forged so I can run some spray.
All I am asking is which forged parts I should run and where to get them.
If you only are going to tell me that I need to be able to tune it, then don't respond.
This thread is about building a forged shortblock, thats it.
Teching In
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 33
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One of the global setup perameters is engine size. When you change that in the setup to 383 the computer is going to modify the calculations for fueling and your going to be back to where you were before. You can email the data logs from your DFI to a good tuner in the states and Should be able to get it straightened out pretty quickly. With that being said..... Build it the way you want it.
One of the global setup perameters is engine size. When you change that in the setup to 383 the computer is going to modify the calculations for fueling and your going to be back to where you were before. You can email the data logs from your DFI to a good tuner in the states and Should be able to get it straightened out pretty quickly. With that being said..... Build it the way you want it.
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We use The Callies Dragonslayer crank and Compstar H beam rods, or the Scat Forged Crank and H beam rods. For pistons I personally think the CP Bullet can't be beat, but I also like the Mahle pistons too. You can't go wrong with any of those parts.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
10 Second Club
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 2,630
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You can't build a shortblock for yourself with parts sourced from the internet, and machining done locally, cheaper than Clayton Racing can build for you. Their prices are excellent. Not sure how much shipping a 300lb shortblock to Hawaii would be though, lol.
Here is there ebay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/claytonracingengines
Here is one of their 383's with forged everything:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SBC-383-LT1-Forg...item3a56f5e366
Here is there ebay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/claytonracingengines
Here is one of their 383's with forged everything:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SBC-383-LT1-Forg...item3a56f5e366
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 444
Likes: 0
From: Kailua-Kona, HI
You can't build a shortblock for yourself with parts sourced from the internet, and machining done locally, cheaper than Clayton Racing can build for you. Their prices are excellent. Not sure how much shipping a 300lb shortblock to Hawaii would be though, lol.
Here is there ebay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/claytonracingengines
Here is one of their 383's with forged everything:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SBC-383-LT1-Forg...item3a56f5e366
Here is there ebay store:
http://stores.ebay.com/claytonracingengines
Here is one of their 383's with forged everything:
http://cgi.ebay.com/SBC-383-LT1-Forg...item3a56f5e366
I'm thinking of going with the kit from Advanced Induction and re-use my stock crank.
That will keep everything down under 3 grand.
11 Second Club
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 304
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From: Lancaster, tx
Keeping it under 3k is going to be a challenge, mainly if you're sourcing parts and not doing your own labor. If you cam is ruined I'd have my valves and springs checked also just to be safe. I'm not sure if you can get around a tune unless you put it back the way it was, and why not? you did say you were happy with the way it preformed. Cc306 may be out dated but it's far from obsolete.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 444
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From: Kailua-Kona, HI
Keeping it under 3k is going to be a challenge, mainly if you're sourcing parts and not doing your own labor. If you cam is ruined I'd have my valves and springs checked also just to be safe. I'm not sure if you can get around a tune unless you put it back the way it was, and why not? you did say you were happy with the way it preformed. Cc306 may be out dated but it's far from obsolete.
The Springs are brand new, Patriot Gold Extremes. And I will have the valve checked before I re-install the heads too.
And yeah, I'm planning on just building the same shortblock but forged so I can run my current tune. I don't see the need to go changing the cam to pick up another 10-15rwhp, which isn't even worth the trouble of the re-tune and all that.
