what's this?
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
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what's this? hey guys. so I dropped my steering wheel to make my header install go smoother and it was actually pretty simple and a pretty big space maker. I went to put the wheel back in and I see this cable with a white tip marked "Up Up Up" floating around back there behind my cluster. i'm just wondering what it is because I think it might need to be replaced. here's a pic:
That looks like the cable that connects to the steering column on one end and the automatic shifter on the other end. I think that cable is what prevents the car from starting when it is not in park, but I am not certain.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Thanks a lot! I've actually had trouble in the past with my key getting stuck in the ignition. any idea if it's broken or just out of place and how it goes back in?
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What headers are you installing? This is the first time I've ever read about dropping the steering shaft for a header install. Removing the steering knuckle is about all that needs to be done...
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Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Haha ya. 3 of my manifold bolts blew out... that's why i did the header install in the first place. because i get 2 new holes with headers. But I still had a bolt I needed stuck in the head flush with the surface. I dropped the wheel so I could get a 90 deg drill in there with a reverse bit but had no luck so I'm going to put it together with 5 bolts (better than 3) and see if there's a bad leak. If I get a leak I will have a shop pull the heads and drill it and tap a new hole. Whole process has been a nightmare but I'm treating it as a learning experience.
Big thanks btw for all the help. finally got them in and now I just need to finish putting everything back.
Big thanks btw for all the help. finally got them in and now I just need to finish putting everything back.
Haha ya. 3 of my manifold bolts blew out... that's why i did the header install in the first place. because i get 2 new holes with headers. But I still had a bolt I needed stuck in the head flush with the surface. I dropped the wheel so I could get a 90 deg drill in there with a reverse bit but had no luck so I'm going to put it together with 5 bolts (better than 3) and see if there's a bad leak. If I get a leak I will have a shop pull the heads and drill it and tap a new hole. Whole process has been a nightmare but I'm treating it as a learning experience.
Big thanks btw for all the help. finally got them in and now I just need to finish putting everything back.
Big thanks btw for all the help. finally got them in and now I just need to finish putting everything back.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
Other than the tool to release the fuel supply and return lines, a couple of sockets and open end wrenches are about all you need to remove the intake, and a couple more sockets and extensions get the cylinder head off. Working on a SBC is pretty straightforward...
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
well the only write ups I've seen for top end removal are for cam swaps and say that I need to pull the water pump and balancer. do I need to do all of this if I'm not doing a cam swap but just pulling a head?
The water pump does not need to be moved there is at least one bolt that goes thru the accessory(sp?) bracket in the passengers side head that has to come out. Only basic tools are needed along with a good torque wrench. Also don't forget about the water lines thats connected on the rear of both heads.
Last edited by riceburnerZ28; Mar 1, 2011 at 06:08 PM.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
The water pump does not need to be moved there is at least one bolt that goes thru the accessory(sp?) bracket in the passengers side head that has to come out. Only basic tools are needed along with a good torque wrench. Also don't forget about the water lines thats connected on the rear of both heads.