mikes94z

I've save a bunch of info on the LS series ecm. I know the mexican vans had a vortec motor with the distributer and single coil. If memory serves me right these were availible in 2000 or 2001. I had a stock vin file but I need to find it. The crank position was a 4 pulse signal.
Now most of the info was from a well known tuner(would love to give his name but I hope he finds this)(He might be a sponser here). I also got a bunch of info from monodax forum that might be history now. So if we repin most of our stock harness or start with a LS1 harness most of this can be done fairly easily. I will work on finding the info in the nair future.


Now can you imagine. If you use a sbc fuel injected intake, the vortec distibutor, LS ecm(trucks are are $50-75 at the junk yards), and make the wiring changes yourself.
I never had much of a problem with the opti but 7000 rpms suck.


What do you guys think?

mikes94z

The L31 file for the 2001 van is what file you need to start with. The 96-97 LT1 crank position sensor is the same one you need to use. Then a ecm ending with 0411.

mikes94z

Maybe Larry from speed inc can check and see if he has a base file?

355z28

iTrader: (8)

Ive posted about this a couple times before. But have yet to find anyone thats attempted it.

The crank sensor I think is a 4 pulse, and the vortec dist. has the cam sensor built it.

I dont see why it wouldnt work (same iac,map,maf,tps setup) But like anyone else Id like to see it done before I attempted it. But I think I will have to just bite the bullet and give it a shot.

mikes94z

It has been done. Need to find the 01-02 pin outs for the ecm.

It has been done many times on the vortec sbc. But the LT1 is the same thing once you usee the 96-97 timing cover and a sbc intake.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

There's no reason why you could machine your lt1 intake for the distributer. Ill have to try to find the pin outs.

mikes94z

Give Ed Wright a call if you need a base tune. That is who I was going to get for a base tune a while back just didn't go thru with it.

I have a 5.3L from a 2002 truck in my 91 chevy with a 4L80E. it was simple and didn't cost much for the whole swap. I think this ecm can be done for a few hundred or 500-600 if you have to get some help on the harness.

And yep your intake can be modified to run a distributer. The wiring is easy the hard part is finding the schematic.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

Would the obd2 connector inside of the car need to be repinned?

mikes94z

Heres some info I just found.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

Know anywhere where you can get breakdowns like what shbox has on his website?

duh

iTrader: (16)

At this point why not just modify the optispark to accept the cam sensor from the vortec distributor? ;-) oh wait, that's what I'm working on once I can find a junk 95+ opti unit....lol

mikes94z

the only thing I would do with the opti is use it for spark direction to the wires. that way with the vortec distributer under the cowl you don't have to mess with the wires.

Now I have a tbi sbc here that i could use as a test mule. Or if there is a local project that someone has going I would donate my time(to a piont) to prove this works. But not looking to take on the whole project. Personally I don't see a need to up grade ecm's unless 7000 rpm's is going to be in your power range. But I want to put together a how to. If someone is putting a LT1 or vortec in a vehicle thats wants to run with the 0411 ecm let me know.

355z28

iTrader: (8)

Im interested in doing it just to try to get rid of a top end miss Ive been chasing for years, Ive been through everthing, except changing computer systems.

but there would be no repinning the lt1 harness, looking at the 411 computers here at work the pcm connectors are different.

mikes94z

Yes it needs a new housing but the the connectors I believe are the same. Now I have to go look again. But even if you had to crimp new pins on they cost a couple cents each.

mikes94z

Well I got all the info needed to make the swap. There is no reason why this couldn't be done for around $500 if you used the stock gm parts with a vortec distibuter and modified the wiring harness your self. That price does not include anything for tuning. That is up to yourself and your local dyno shops.

I think the option of the 4 pulse crank trigger and a modified opti for cam position would work great if you want to keep the opti for spark displacement without running a rear didstributor.

duh

iTrader: (16)

currently I'm working on finding a hall effect sensor that I can put into the opti right where the original optical sensor is. Once I find a suitable sensor I can work on the 1x reluctor wheel to go with it. I've found quite a few sensors that can be used, it's just a matter of weather or not it'll work with just a steel wheel. So far I have $90 into my project, but that is buying a 95+ opti, the timing cover, crank reluctor and balancer hub. All I really need is a cam, wire, a sensor and wheel and then the 411 pcm. I figure if I do it right I can come under $500 in hard parts, then the tune. With the way I'm going, if you have a 96/97 you could get away with $500, tune included, and be done. But I really need to find a compatible sensor first. I'm thinking I might pick up the 01/02 vortec cam sensor and see how or if it will fit, since that would make things really easy.

G/L with your project and sorry to half way hijack.

S10Wildside

This has been done since at least 2006. More info at http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/tp...-opinions.html.



It was a popular request that pretty much fizzled. Other than corrosion issues with the cap/rotor in the Vortec distributor, the conversion works well.

mikes94z

Get the pickup out of the vortec distributer. From 96-03 5.7's or the v-6

You can get a used distributer cheap and rob the part you need out of it.

Wicked94Z

iTrader: (26)

1x cam sensor inside the opti is done...... Also 4x crank setup that will work with a double roller timing chain inside a stock cover is almost done, wouldn't require a 96-97 cover either, I can mill the 92-95 covers for the crank sensor setup.

duh

iTrader: (16)

the only real concern about doing that is trying to make sure there's enough room under the cap and rotor. From what I can tell the wheel is a little deep as it a flat plate with one half hanging down. I need to physically get my hands on one, so I may take a trip out to the junk yard on wed. and see if I can't find something that will work.