djjab57

iTrader: (17)

I didnt read all 3 pages but I would go with a bigger injector. A 36 or 37

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Agreed...

merim123

iTrader: (11)

go the site i linked and play with the settings

heads = 56cc
piston = 5cc
gasket = .041 (stock)
gasket bore = 4.125
deck clearance = search what stock deck and piston in the hole
stroke = 3.75

so you have to do one piece of research- deck clearance and then pick the head gasket thickness.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

can't comment on the FI, don't use it, but think you'd something different, especially for a hair dryer.

assuming you keep the shortblock once done, you're only option at that point is bigger cc heads and not sure if you can get a 62/72cc lt1 head to drop that compression a bit.

FI guys can help you more.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

puck on here has a CC guide that is simple and cost about $3, search for his thread and you'll get it.

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

How big do the headgaskets go? Would be nice to have CR in the 10's but a turbo would be a long time away... I do however already have the nitrous... So how does the CR look as it is...? Also the chamber #'s??

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

Yeah but you haven't figured in machine/assembly/material costs yet so not sure how much you'll be in the black. No matter. I'll be glad to help. Don't think you'll like it, but it's just a mere suggestion. I think you should stay away from LE all together. If you are looking for 400rwhp for a good daily driver then go with the LPE 211/219 cam. With a set of good ported heads and intake on your stroker you should be real close to 400rwhp with a **** ton of torque. Depending on your taste the good/bad news is this cam will make the engine sound just like stock. There would be absolutely no lope, but the good news is it would make a nice sleeper and I bet it would outperform any of LE's grinds of the same caliber. again, if you have a good set of ported heads/intake to complement the cam that is. You could do this on 30lb injector no problem. The car would behave just like stock. A set of 3.42 gears and a 2800 stall and you'd be most likely in the 1.5 60' range on a drag radial. The car would be a killer off the line and your gas mileage would be aces as well.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

so if you go with what SS RRR is telling you, you can keep that entire bottom end. Then keep an eye out for some nice used SBC heads with 72-74cc heads. Pick them up and have them converted to reverse flow and throw your hair dryer on!

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Good info ... Idk LPE but ..ok, the car has 3.23's , full tubulR susp and bald tires ..i wouldn't mind some lope.. As far as cost ... I'm committed to doing it and doing the assembly my self .. I got 500 in the pistons and rods , 700 in the block... Pretty sure I got raped on cam bearings, freeze plugs,bore and clearance there... , buying a crank Friday... Then going to have it balanced and assemble in my kitchen where it's on a stand , then focus on heads....

merim123

iTrader: (11)

how are you going to check all the clearances?

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

With tools,
Won't be the first motor I've put together

Puck

iTrader: (17)

Way too much CR for a boosted build - NA and Turbo setups need completely different parts to perform.

You can run a .026 VR head gasket and some stockish sized heads for now for closer to 12:1, and then get a thicker gasket and some larger chambered AFR or TFS heads when you want to go turbo. It won't be as good as changing the pistons as well, but it will still drop the CR down to a much more boost friendly high 9.x.

Was within 1cc of the machine shops measurement - a syringe is not as accurate as a burette, but it gets the job done .

That LPE is killer on a stock headed daily driver, but there is no way in hell I'd run one in a ported headed stroker. Sorry, but any of LEs grinds will demolish it with all things being equal.

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

^^^^ thanks for the info , my mind is set on LE .. As far as the head gasket what is "VR" ? And I need part #'s what's the benefit of increasing the CR from where it's is to 12:1? Also still need a suggestion on timing chain and gear set to run w/o water pump drive in my 93 cover..
Mike

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I would highly advise converting to a vented optispark (try searching for parts involved) if your budget allows. If you stick with the non-vented optispark your options for a timing chain are extremely limited to a stock-type set. If you convert to a vented optispark using a 95 timing cover (95 specifically) you give yourself the benefit of running a double roller timing chain (like the popular Cloyes 3145), plus the benefit of running a vented opti instead of the non-vented.

"VR" stands for Victor Reinz.

There is no magical formula for HP increase with compression since there are so many other variables that could be altered. I have heard for each full point you gain 4%, but the returns are diminishing. The higher you go the less HP you gain. You can more HP by going from 9:1 from 10:1 than you do from 11:1 to 12:1. Fact is you WILL see more power (peak), probably somewhere around the 5-15HP range.

1961ba427

iTrader: (26)

If you have a vented opti, I really like the GM # 12371043. Single Roller Timing Chain Kit. It comes with the chain, both gears, cam bolts, cam retainer (2 diff ones included), and retainer bolts. It lists for $56.25. It is the same chain used in the ZZ4 and other GMPP sbc crate motors.

It uses the exact same chain and crank sprocket as the Extreme Duty LT1/LT4 timing set that lists for almost $298.

merim123

iTrader: (11)

I've got an OEM vented opti with 6k miles and a 95 cover that is welded for an electric wp for sale here shortly

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

I'll keep that in mind so keep me posted . I am running a vented opti set up already via an MSD cap and vent line with the check valves to the manifold and the opti weep holes plugged .. I'm more interested in running my cover and opti with a HD timing set ... Cheap suggestions? PN#?

Ultimatly I just Wana keep it simple and spend money where it's needed... I.e. My working opti and cover so... Thanks for the input keep it comming
Mike

SS RRR

iTrader: (2)

The 211 cam is a killer with ported heads/intake stock block or stroker. The OP states he wants good driving manners and 400rwhp. This cam fits the bill perfectly. Yeah and as far as which one would destroy the other, it's nothing more than a matter of opinion. From reading all these boards for the last several years I haven't seen anything you state to be true with any LE cam close to the 211 grind, but that's neither here nor there.
Well good luck with that. Hopefully you can be living testimony of what Puck believes.

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for the words of wisdom, thing is there's no one around here (my area) that knows a lt1 or it's heads like people claim LE does.. And would only make since to
have him cut a cam for me while he has my heads ...
Still need an answer on the timing set/chain delema ..

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I already said you're limited to a stock-type set. AFAIK there is no "specific HD set" for a non-vented opti (which is why I suggested upgrading to a vented). If you run a vented, you can run any typical SBC timing set. Due to the spline drive of the vented opti, you're stuck.