i run Oliver Billet Steel I-Beam rods and they have the Oliver/ARP WSB 7/16" Bolts in them............its overkill but i know im safe at 8000+rpm with them......they run these rods in 9000rpm cars making wayyy more power than me

 

Wow thats quite a bit of grinding you had to do James. I think I am going with the 5.7" rods... haven't decided yet though.

I don't see why that assembly wouldn't work though. Just make sure you balance it correctly. The difference is most likely in the flexplate and balancer

 

If you are worried about clearence get a custom crank and small journal rods

 

^^^ Way to much money... I am not worried about it I am just wondering so I know what issues lie ahead.

What is the minimum piston to deck height that I can have? I know optimal would be about .017"ish to help with quench but would it be better to get a shorter piston and mill the deck to proper height or a 0.00" piston to deck height?

 

Why, they come with the flexplate and balancer. It's completely balanced and ready to go,

Is the front of the crank different on a LT1?

Al

 

Well that is your problem the head on those L19's is huge. ARP 2000 in mine I have some L19's but I never wanted to clearance for them.



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No need to weld anything. If your going with a 4.00" then maybe.
Here is my 3.875 in a vette block that's in the car right now.
http://img266.imageshack.us/i/dsc04550x.jpg/

If you want some .030 Wiseco forged pistons I have a set of those for sale.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...1-125-pin.html

 

NO NEED lol!!!!


you can run whatever you want for deck height mine is .003 long as you keep ur quench over .030 or so your fine.....


nope.......like i said i run a genI crank in my car.....

exactly......the wsb bolt i run is stronger yet smaller than the L19........prob why i didn't have to clearance my pan rails.....also like i said mine is a billet I-beam.....its a smaller lighter rod..........but as fek said theres no reason you should have to weld..........

 

The L19's are way too big, no reason for them.


The rails and the cam side have been hogged out a bit much, I might get away with a 4" crank, but it would definitely be a half fill if I was going to do it.


Edit: This is more than what you will need for a 3.875" crank, we were just having fun with the mill.
Extra clearance the cam side.

 

yea thats what i did with mine to get them by........not nearly as much though.......luckly the olivers are a compact rod my rod is .015 away from one of my cam lobes at one point lol

 

Well then it looks like I am leaning towards a 3.875" crankshaft. What pistons and rods did you use with your setup fex?

 

Well, I'm not saying you should go with Eagle on the crank but this is what my setup is. I wouldn't build a shortblock if it wasn't a forged crank and pistons. I run H-beams cause I don't need anything stronger. Oliver rods are awesome, but the price isn't.
The Eagle part number I have is 12113
435338756000 - 4340 3.8750" Crank (Ohio crank can get you a better price)
CRS6000B3D2000 - 6.000" H-Beam (This is their pn with ARP2000 bolts, the cheaper rods come with ARP 8740 rod bolts, don't mess with the L19s either)
Mahle forged 4032 -5.0cc 1.062 Pin height (Decide on the heads and what you are going to want out of the motor.)


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If you go with the bearing from them make sure they don't send you that "king" ****, specify Clevite CB663H rod bearings and MS909H Mains.

 

Wow that is a small compression height. Would a 5.7" rod work ok too or would I benefit from 6"?

Also I will definitely be going forged on crank and pistons.

If you don't mind me asking how much did you spend on the whole bottom end balanced and everything?

 

Run the 6" rod, with the parts I would say I have 800-1200 in the machining and assembly.

 

With 5.7 rods its very hard to balance the assembly.You could go with 5.85 rods
but its hard to get off the shelf pistons for that combo

 

a 6" rod also makes for a more durable motor and a better rod ratio...........a 5.7" rod beats the snot out of the piston and cylidner walls........a 6" rod is a better choice....

 

What do you mean Ohio crank can get me a better price? I looked on their website and they only list 1 crankshaft that is a one piece RMS.

 

Call them
This is the prices you are trying to beat.
From eagle
$1781.25 for the rotating assembly (12113)
$665.33 Crankshaft (435338756000)
$540.00 H-beams w/ ARP2000s (CRS6000B3D2000)
$575ish Mahle forged


Or you could buy my pistions and make a 388, that would require less machining and you would be running a 3.8 crank and 6" rods.


Here is what my 396

 

I would buy them if i had the money at the moment. But I was leaning towards a stock bore. But we will see when I pull the motor apart and see how much the cylinder walls need to be punched out.

I figured I would have to call them. I am just trying to figure up how much I need to save up to fund my rebuild. And if I am going with another crank I might as well get a big *** one!

Thanks for all the help guys!