I'm old school, I'd look in the pan and pull the rear main at least to check. If you find scratches in the bearing, metal got into the oil and you need to deal with it. Lots easier to just ignore it, but it will cost you later.

And, I'd block the oil filter bypass.

Al

 

Noo I got mine 25 bucks used... slow car discount

Order one from Race-mart, they have the absolute best prices on lunati stuff! I remember seeing a set of "lunati" HIPPO lifters for 450 on that site, then they changed it

 

I can tell by looking at the cam gear that it's an iron gear, so I don't think your "everwear" gear would have been much help.

 

Lol dont say that! i just ordered an everwear gear last night. I cant see it giving me much of an issue tho.

Im still waiting for afew parts to come in before i can get everything back together. But i was able to check my valve train of any shavings or dirt and everything was like new. I sent my intake out to get cleaned because there was ALOT of oil in it. Im thinking its coming from the throttle body. The seal had alot of oil on it.. i have to look into it more. I got my intake back today and i must say. It is the CLEANEST intake ive ever seen! this isnt painted, its just raw cast aluminum.





Beautiful... Next I decided to put a mechanical oil pressure guage in line. In the event that something like that happens again i can know for a fact on wether its an electrical problem or mechanical. I T'ed it off the back of the block where the sending unit screws in.



Its abit primitive but it works and clears the intake and fuel rail. I primed the system as much as i could without lifters or a seal around the oil pump. The guage got to around 5 psi tho when i put my little slow drill on it, so im happy to atleast know my oil pump still works

I shouldd be getting the rest of my parts in tomorrow that ill be needing. That being a slightly used gear drive unit from Rob and Wicked's aluminum plate that goes over it. And a Lunati Everwear gear. Ill atleast be able to get the valve train put back in while i wait for those parts to come in hopefully tomorrow.

 

no bud, speed-demon24's Ai pimping link was talking about an everwear gear on the Ai cam's that would have magically saved you drive gear. But since you have an iron gear on your cam, it was just terrible pimping.

 

Ahhh gotcha. i was worried.. for a sec

 

Well now i have to wait till tomorrow till the gear comes in for some stupid reason :\ everythings preped to go back together. I cleaned up my TB abit. Looks alot better then it did before with all the oil and muck on it. LEtting it sit in simple green over night helped out alot

 

I just pulled my oil pump drive stub for inspection and it has just enough wear to the tooth to be noticeable. You can feel the transition from untouched tooth surface to worn tooth surface with a small flat tipped screwdriver. This is also with around 10K miles on it and it is not going to fail any time soon.

My older billet cam is supposed to have the cast gear installed but when I called comp with the serial number, they told me it was a billet gear but he sounded a bit unsure. The dude at Comp acted like I was burdening him with my call so I might call again and reach someone else. It would make sense to me that the serial should specifically indicate what gear is installed. LE stated it should have the cast gear.

I have the everwear pump drive gear on the way but I am not sure if I will use it after seeing how well the stocker is still holding up. If the cam really does have the cast gear like LE says it should, I am wondering if the everwear gear would then wear the cam gear out. Damn this is frustrating.

 

That bites man. I have everything except for Wicked's aluminum saver. Im going to put the everwear gear on it and just run it like that. It is frustrating but im going to work around it. I cant see it causing much of an issue anyway.

 

Hey guys - I had my Camaro break down while out on Woodward Ave (the main strip for cruising) on the 29th for the same reason, though my gear didn't look as bad.

I have a CC503 and am planning on buying the Lunati Everwear gear. What's this Wicked's aluminum saver piece that's being described here? I saw Herron Performance has the $130 billet piece that replaces the plastic piece and it also has a hole for oil to get to the gears to help keep it lubricated - I haven't made up my mind if it's something that's necessary or not.

I'm just really surprised about this because I never once heard in any discussions about cam swaps that the oil pump gear needs to be taken into consideration and yet a google search turns up hundreds if not thousands of people who are having the same issues. Wish I would have known instead of learning the hard way...

Here's my thread (on a different site) with pics. http://www.mifbody.com/vbulletin/sho...Problem-Thread

 

89032lun

 

Just an FYI to who ever claimed it was high milage gears I had a brand new stock gear used with my LE builit cam and I noticed when I had the motor apart that the gear had quite a bit of wear for only 2 to 3k miles but I went a head and put it back in any way and I am now using the oil pump drive saver on it. I don't put a lot of milage on my car and it has the standard volume standard pressure pump in it with a 10/30 oil. I am going to be pulling the intake this fall or winter to check intake gaskets I had a problem with the last time and I am going to be swapping to the wearever gear and we will see how much more wear there is on it. I have pics of what it looked like new when I primed the engine and at 2 to 3 k miles and it should have 4 to 5k on it by fall when it gets inspected again. I'll take pics and we shall see.

 

meissenation i would suggest the lunatic everwear gear. I loved how mine went in and how it felt/looked. So far my cars been running really strong tsince i finished putting everything back together. i havent gotten the chance to update with that.

jaycenk definitely check the gear. Its worth the piece of mind to atleast know that its good or not. I had done my lifters at the very end of winter and i should of checked the gear then but never did... shame on me thatll Never happen again

 

I have been running the comp cams composite gear for the past 25k on a cc502. trashed 3 gears before that (one steel the other cast and one brass). only thing is that the stub shaft is .427" so you have to get the .500" and make an adapter shim to fill the gap. or chop up an old dizzy of your choice, I just had access to a lathe at the time

the biggest thing is to watch the gauge like a hawk on red bull until you trust the gear...then keep watching

 

So do you guys think the Lunati gear plus this piece would make for peace of mind?

https://www.herronperformance.com/st...&productId=317

 

The herron piece is a Huge expense and IMO not required. When you tighten down the bolt that holds that piece in to the block just be sure not to tighten it to much. Thats why most of them break. Be sure to get a plate from wicked. I have one but it came to late for me to install it but its a real nice piece for the coin

 

expensive piece but you can do without

 

So... Can this evergear be run on a cast cam gear. Im building a 383 right now with comp cams 7-467-8. Comp's tech support says its a cast gear and cam. Should I replace with a stock drive unit or just buy the evergear.

Thanks,

 

Yea...Will do. In fact that is the only reason I planned on pulling it this fall since I did not like the amount of wear that I saw this last time and the rash of stripped gears lattley. So it is deffinatly getting pulled and swapped. We will see how much wear it has.

 

Yeah Definitely do what i didnt do!