i had an LE 234/242 on 111 .610 both ways at 1.6 and i really liked it. Car made very usable power. ran it with 410 gears and m6. 
This Cam?
This Cam? LE spec'd me a cam for my 383. I really like the numbers. I was looking at the comp 280xfi, I think LE custom grind is the way to go.
232/242
.578/.576 @ .050
110LSA
I just ordered a Yank SS3600 for the new setup. Like most of us, I'm trying to keep drivability. It's not a daily driver, but may need to drive it daily if needed.
I just want to hear your thoughts on the cam regarding power, drivability, idle, shift point, etc?
Going with Patriot Gold Springs 8401-BSBC, Comp rockers 1618-16, ARP Rocker studs. Staying with 3/8 studs so i can run the SA rockers.
232/242
.578/.576 @ .050
110LSA
I just ordered a Yank SS3600 for the new setup. Like most of us, I'm trying to keep drivability. It's not a daily driver, but may need to drive it daily if needed.
I just want to hear your thoughts on the cam regarding power, drivability, idle, shift point, etc?
Going with Patriot Gold Springs 8401-BSBC, Comp rockers 1618-16, ARP Rocker studs. Staying with 3/8 studs so i can run the SA rockers.
I knew someone would bring that up, lol. And I know you're just looking out for me, which I appreciate, but I spoke to a few reputable people who said I should be ok as long as it's balanced and I keep it from detonating. If it breaks, it breaks, I'll go forged next time. Everyone says "it's just a couple hundred extra bucks", but a forged crank is $600 at least, then have to get it balanced, and I could probably only get $100 for my cast crank if I sold it. So that's at least $500 extra. Plus I figure only 5% of people who build motors are on these forums, so there's probably tens of thousands of people running these cranks with no problems. And I must not know how to search because I went looking for pictures of broken cranks, and I only found a handful.
Anyway, that's not what the threads about. I'll go ahead and get the ball rolling on the cam & valvetrain so I can get back on the road by mid-June.
Anyway, that's not what the threads about. I'll go ahead and get the ball rolling on the cam & valvetrain so I can get back on the road by mid-June.
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I understand your financial dilemma. But the people who say you SHOULD be alright obviously haven't had one break on them. 
The 'if it breaks it breaks' mantra doesn't make sense, because if it breaks it can take out just about every part of your engine, costing you FAR more than the cost of a forged piece (www.ohiocrank.com sells a forged 4340 3.75" 1-pc RMS crank for $475 - the same one I am running in my motor).
There...that's my last ditch effort to persuade you. The cam looks nice.
The 'if it breaks it breaks' mantra doesn't make sense, because if it breaks it can take out just about every part of your engine, costing you FAR more than the cost of a forged piece (www.ohiocrank.com sells a forged 4340 3.75" 1-pc RMS crank for $475 - the same one I am running in my motor).There...that's my last ditch effort to persuade you. The cam looks nice.
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Verdad Gallardo Thanks, I've been trying to sell tons of LT1 stuff on here and Craigslist. If I could sell some of those goodies, I'd have no problem getting a forged crank, but it's been over 4 weeks, and I can't seem to give this stuff away. It's almost June and my car has been 'out of order' since February.
I'm still considering it, and $475 is more appealing than a $600 eagle. I'm putting this build off every week hoping to sell just a few of the bigger ticket items, so I don't have to cheap out on this build, but I'm starting to think it could takes months before some of this sells. And I don't want sept and oct to roll around and I'm still messing around this motor.
Decisions are a bitch. When I took this motor out in Feb, it was supposed to be just to "check it out", maybe a few new parts, and put it back together as is, same bottom end, same cam, etc. Now it's turning into 3 months and $3,000, cam/stall/gears all out rebuild. Some say 'go forged' and some say 'cast should be ok'. Yesterday I was confident in the cast crank and today not so much.
I'm still considering it, and $475 is more appealing than a $600 eagle. I'm putting this build off every week hoping to sell just a few of the bigger ticket items, so I don't have to cheap out on this build, but I'm starting to think it could takes months before some of this sells. And I don't want sept and oct to roll around and I'm still messing around this motor.
Decisions are a bitch. When I took this motor out in Feb, it was supposed to be just to "check it out", maybe a few new parts, and put it back together as is, same bottom end, same cam, etc. Now it's turning into 3 months and $3,000, cam/stall/gears all out rebuild. Some say 'go forged' and some say 'cast should be ok'. Yesterday I was confident in the cast crank and today not so much.
LE spec'd me a cam for my 383. I really like the numbers. I was looking at the comp 280xfi, I think LE custom grind is the way to go.
232/242
.578/.576 @ .050
110LSA
I just ordered a Yank SS3600 for the new setup. Like most of us, I'm trying to keep drivability. It's not a daily driver, but may need to drive it daily if needed.
I just want to hear your thoughts on the cam regarding power, drivability, idle, shift point, etc?
Going with Patriot Gold Springs 8401-BSBC, Comp rockers 1618-16, ARP Rocker studs. Staying with 3/8 studs so i can run the SA rockers.
232/242
.578/.576 @ .050
110LSA
I just ordered a Yank SS3600 for the new setup. Like most of us, I'm trying to keep drivability. It's not a daily driver, but may need to drive it daily if needed.
I just want to hear your thoughts on the cam regarding power, drivability, idle, shift point, etc?
Going with Patriot Gold Springs 8401-BSBC, Comp rockers 1618-16, ARP Rocker studs. Staying with 3/8 studs so i can run the SA rockers.
i'm in the same boat you're in on the cast/forged deal lol... i know how you're feeling but mine's been down about a year lol...
the guy that did my machine work told me in countless strictly strip cars he has put cast cranks in and they've held up forever, but everything i hear on here scares the everliving **** outta me if i do run this cast eagle crank...
for the car sitting a year and me getting this far, with my room now looking like a small parts warehouse, i'm itching to get it together and all i need is a cam and valvesprings now, which with my next pay i should have, but i may let it sit down a month or so longer to get some better quality bottom end parts
the guy that did my machine work told me in countless strictly strip cars he has put cast cranks in and they've held up forever, but everything i hear on here scares the everliving **** outta me if i do run this cast eagle crank...
for the car sitting a year and me getting this far, with my room now looking like a small parts warehouse, i'm itching to get it together and all i need is a cam and valvesprings now, which with my next pay i should have, but i may let it sit down a month or so longer to get some better quality bottom end parts
