Relocated battery to trunk...now starter clicking??
05-09-2011, 05:24 PM
#22
I don't really care if it passes tech. Its more of a street car. My local tracks don't really check anyway. I did it to clean up the engine bay and to take the weight off of the nose. I maybe added 10 lbs of wiring. If I run into problems with tech I will just add the necessary equip. no big deal. But I will add a ground or two and see what that does...
05-09-2011, 05:32 PM
#23
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I moved mine to the spare tire well, I used 1 ga to starter and for ground to rear subframe and 4 ga from batt to alt, plus a ground from block to frame and if the car sits a few days it will click or not start. I have a flaming river push kill switch which is nhra legal, it's nice cause I just shut it off when it's sitting a few days. I have a new standard autozone battery, I want to get a high cca Odyssey battery, I'm sure with a stronger battery I won't get any clicking problems. I run it at Maple Grove which is a major nhra track and it passes tech.
05-09-2011, 06:02 PM
#24
So where didja put the spare tire?
As my ride is a daily driver with occasional runs to upstate NY, I insist on carrying a spare. In my car's case, a GTO 17 inch spare with a smaller tire to fit into the spare tire well. Yes-I've had to use it.
I did a ton of research on mini, racing, lightweight and such batteries and decided on the Powervamp PVR40 at 1,150 cranking amps at 27 pounds. They are in England and make aircraft and military batteries.
Please excuse the filthy wheels
As my ride is a daily driver with occasional runs to upstate NY, I insist on carrying a spare. In my car's case, a GTO 17 inch spare with a smaller tire to fit into the spare tire well. Yes-I've had to use it.
I did a ton of research on mini, racing, lightweight and such batteries and decided on the Powervamp PVR40 at 1,150 cranking amps at 27 pounds. They are in England and make aircraft and military batteries.
Please excuse the filthy wheels
05-09-2011, 06:11 PM
#25
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^^^ I haven't had the spare tire there since '02 I guess, thats when it stopped being my dd. I just keep a can of tire sealer in there for an emergency, I've never had to use it though, but the longest trip I take in it anmore is about an hour or so to one of the nearby tracks. If it was still my dd I wouldnt be running the battery in the back, it'd be way too much hassle.
05-09-2011, 06:56 PM
#26
i also have the same clicking sound when starting and im using 2gage welding cable for the starter and 4 gage welding cable for the alt. i also have a yellow top optima and 2 grounds on the engine block to the frame rails and another on the trans. never did it before when it was in the stock location. i guess i need to either ground the battery better.
05-09-2011, 09:48 PM
#27
So I just relocated my batt to the trunk. It is a brand new battery, and the starter is just about a year old. There is no cut off switch, I just have 1/0 gauge cable going from the positive to the starter, 4ga going from starter to distribution block. 4ga going from battery positive to the alt. 1/0 gauge from negative to the rear seat belt stud. And a 4ga ground from the drivers side motor mount bolt(to the block) to the drivers side frame rail where an abs bracket bolt went.
Usually when I try to start it it just clicks and the lights flicker. And I can see the crank turning a little. But it does this randomly, sometimes will start fine, other times click. Or sometimes will click for a sec then start. Just whatever it feels like doing. And if I plug my charger in and put it on the start setting and let it sit for a min, it will usually start no problem.
What u guys think my problem is??
Usually when I try to start it it just clicks and the lights flicker. And I can see the crank turning a little. But it does this randomly, sometimes will start fine, other times click. Or sometimes will click for a sec then start. Just whatever it feels like doing. And if I plug my charger in and put it on the start setting and let it sit for a min, it will usually start no problem.
What u guys think my problem is??
05-09-2011, 09:59 PM
#28
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I agree to fix your grounds , but it wouldnt hurt to load test that battery. I just got a brand new battery last tues, car ran fine for maybe 20 mins. I went to start next day and it wouldnt turn over I charged it maybe got a click or two. I load tested it and sure enough it was junk. Took it back to the parts store, they couldnt believe it was bad, they tested it maybe 2 times , after first trying to say I need to check the alt. Before load test it was lik 11.9v, during 1.6v.
05-10-2011, 08:35 AM
#29
Not sure if anyone answered your question, too much bs to look through, but you need to ground the battery to the frame. The seat belt stud is spot welded on, it won't work. Check over every connection though and pull on all your crimps. You should also use 1/0 from the block to the frame. Make sure you thoroughly cleaned your ground points too. I would definitely start with moving that ground though.
As the seat belt stud is welded to the body, it can be a good point for the ground connection-and others have used it with good results. As I said in post #3, the paint needs to be ground away until bare metal is exposed.
05-11-2011, 10:15 AM
#30
I agree with all this however the question has been answered in a few different ways.
As the seat belt stud is welded to the body, it can be a good point for the ground connection-and others have used it with good results. As I said in post #3, the paint needs to be ground away until bare metal is exposed.
As the seat belt stud is welded to the body, it can be a good point for the ground connection-and others have used it with good results. As I said in post #3, the paint needs to be ground away until bare metal is exposed.
05-11-2011, 11:05 AM
#31
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I have tried 2 different brand new batterys from Oreillys. The paint was ground off at the seat belt stud, but yesterday I moved it to the frame. I also moved the engine ground to another location on the frame. The paint is completely ground off on all my ground points.
Still no change whatsoever.................
Still no change whatsoever.................
05-13-2011, 01:40 AM
#33
Would be a good time to try troubleshooting this and stop throwing parts at it. Do you have a digital volt meter? That's all you need besides a long piece of wire and someone to twist the key. Harbor Freight sells digital meters for about $3.00.
If you have a digital meter I'll walk you through the test. You can PM me and I'll send you my phone number or answer here and I'll do the procedure here.
Al 95 Z28
If you have a digital meter I'll walk you through the test. You can PM me and I'll send you my phone number or answer here and I'll do the procedure here.
Al 95 Z28
05-13-2011, 11:38 AM
#35
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Alright cool
I do have a multimeter and I tested the voltage at the purple wire on the starter with a long piece of wire ran from it to the drivers seat while I was cranking (clicking) and I am only getting between 2.0-2.5 V
I do have a multimeter and I tested the voltage at the purple wire on the starter with a long piece of wire ran from it to the drivers seat while I was cranking (clicking) and I am only getting between 2.0-2.5 V
05-13-2011, 12:26 PM
#37
Al
05-13-2011, 05:38 PM
#39
The purple wire power comes off a relay contact in the "theft deterrent relay". The feed contact for it gets it's power from a yellow wire that comes from the ignition switch located on the steering column. This same yellow wire provides the power to the theft deterrent relay coil. This coil gets it's ground from the body control module.
As you're getting some voltage at the starter's purple wire, this relay appears to be working.
When you try to start the engine, you should have full voltage at the purple wire at the starter solenoid. As you have way less, you need to figure out why by working your way backwards.
With the engine off, how bright do the headlights burn? If they're dim, you have a bad connection somewhere affecting everything. If they're nice and bright, do they stay bright when you try to start the engine?
I think your problem lies in the positive side of the system, not the negative/ground side.
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg
As you're getting some voltage at the starter's purple wire, this relay appears to be working.
When you try to start the engine, you should have full voltage at the purple wire at the starter solenoid. As you have way less, you need to figure out why by working your way backwards.
With the engine off, how bright do the headlights burn? If they're dim, you have a bad connection somewhere affecting everything. If they're nice and bright, do they stay bright when you try to start the engine?
I think your problem lies in the positive side of the system, not the negative/ground side.
http://shbox.com/1/starter_charging_96.jpg
05-13-2011, 07:52 PM
#40
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With Big Als help we tested for an hour an a half and figured out its the theft deterrent relay. If I jump the yellow and purple wires on the relay it will crank