What would you do?
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On The Tree
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What would you do? 1996 Formula A4 with the following mods: 3.42's, comp eng drag rear shocks, heater hose mod, ls1 front brakes, air and egr delete, eBay lt headers and open y pipe, Msd wires, ngk tr55 plugs, power steering delete and Ac delete, low mount alternator, ls1 RAM air, ls1 steering shaft,n along wit new opti and cooling system. I noticed that the oil pan gasket and front seal were leaking and want to get it taken care of. I wanted to know what you guys think would be worth doing while having the motor out or should I just tackle the leak with the motor still in there?
Is it an automatic or stick car? From what I've heard, the auto cars can have the pan gasket changed without removing the engine or moving back the tranny, while the stick cars need to have the tranny slid back, because the 6 speed and bellhousing is a little bit larger, and takes up precious room.
Having said that, my '96 Z-28 is an auto car, and I've dropped the pan out twice, over the years. It's no "day at the beach", but it's far from the worst job I've ever done....
Having said that, my '96 Z-28 is an auto car, and I've dropped the pan out twice, over the years. It's no "day at the beach", but it's far from the worst job I've ever done....
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Well it is an A4 and I an still trying to find a how to thread on it for some assistance on the install while motor is in the car. I am planning on a cam but I just want to take the car out for the first time since I bought it
Depending on what kind of "y-pipe" you have on the car, that will have to be removed, along with disconnecting the battery and removing the starter. The motor mount bolts will have to be removed, and the tranny mount bolt loosened.
Loosen the oil pan bolts, then lift the motor from the front end, until the intake manifold is barely touching the cowl, then remove the pan bolts, and the pan should just make it out. You might have to rotate the crankshaft, in order to get the "throws" of the two front cylinders in the "up" position, for additional room for the pan to slip out.
Loosen the oil pan bolts, then lift the motor from the front end, until the intake manifold is barely touching the cowl, then remove the pan bolts, and the pan should just make it out. You might have to rotate the crankshaft, in order to get the "throws" of the two front cylinders in the "up" position, for additional room for the pan to slip out.
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Verdad Gallardo Yes, you do have to pull the crank hub to change the seal, but as previously mentioned, you then have to pull the water pump, Opti, maybe the cooling fans, IIRC, and finally the front cover. Then put it ALL back together and bleed the cooling system......
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Well I picked up a timing gasket set from AZ and replaced the front seal put the hub back on and started it up. Everything was good but then a minute later I see the oil build up around the hub and gush out along with some more oil coming from a little spot on the side of the timing cover. Should I buy the repair sleeve out that they sell?
I wouldn't bother with the repair sleeve. If your hub's "sealing surface" is that worn, I'd simply buy the Power Bond replacement hub. I have one on my car right now, and if I recall correctly, it wasn't too expensive.
If, however, you'd like to try a Fluidampr, I have one for sale....
If, however, you'd like to try a Fluidampr, I have one for sale....
.....because race cars leak oil.
It's like the somewhat old joke, "Why wasn't the computer invented in England?"
.....because their engineers couldn't figure out how to make them leak oil!!
It's like the somewhat old joke, "Why wasn't the computer invented in England?"
.....because their engineers couldn't figure out how to make them leak oil!!
