LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

how to disconnect M6 from LT1

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Old 05-31-2011, 05:20 PM
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Default how to disconnect M6 from LT1

i just dropped the engine and transmission and i tried to disconnect the tranny. I first took off all the bolts from the bell housing and the 10mm bolts holding the plate in between. that would slide off so i disconnected the transmission from the bell housing and still no go.. They are loose but it seems like something is still holding on.

How do i take the tranny off from the engine?
Old 05-31-2011, 05:28 PM
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pull u my need to wiggle it A little
Old 05-31-2011, 05:34 PM
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You also have to disconnect the clutch fork from the to bearing. Pull it out and you will feel it disconnect from the to bearing.
Old 05-31-2011, 05:53 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGG 97Z
You also have to disconnect the clutch fork from the to bearing. Pull it out and you will feel it disconnect from the to bearing.
the thing that goes from where the slave connects to the clutch?
Old 05-31-2011, 06:26 PM
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yesss
Old 05-31-2011, 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GREGG 97Z
You also have to disconnect the clutch fork from the to bearing. Pull it out and you will feel it disconnect from the to bearing.
X3.
Old 05-31-2011, 07:01 PM
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can't seem to get it off. Is there a certain way? its connected to the tranny so it can't just come off and i've tried tapping it out via hammer.. just won't budge.
btw tranny is on rolling platform and engine is on one also and ive been trying to wiggle it apart.
Old 05-31-2011, 07:11 PM
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You just pull it to the side, to the left. Then the motor and trans will pull apart. You don't actually remove it, it will slide to the left.
Old 05-31-2011, 07:29 PM
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has it been confirmed that you've released the clutch fork? other then that, it should come appart like butta. Nothing should be able to hold it together.
Old 05-31-2011, 07:32 PM
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i had to relieve the tension because it was pulled apart then the fork slid right off.. that was easy.

now the fly wheel? haha. is there a technique for that?
i know i ask stupid questions
Old 05-31-2011, 07:36 PM
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I think it's about time somebody picks up a Haynes manual....
Old 05-31-2011, 08:05 PM
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Yes, use an impact gun, flywheel bolts will come right out. If you don't have one good luck! Pretty ugly any other way. I had zero luck even with someone assisting me breaking the flywheel bolts loose the first time I ever tried to remove them. Next day borrowed a compressor and impact from the neighbor, had the flywheel off in no time.

I second that, I have a Haynes, a Chiltons, thought about looking for a factory manual set one of these days just to have them.
Old 05-31-2011, 08:42 PM
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i have a haynes manual somewhere in the den, just figured replies on here would be shorter easier read than the old haynes manual. However, i'll tackle the flywheel tomorrow, get the accessories off the front and get it on an engine stand. hopefully..
Old 05-31-2011, 08:58 PM
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Ok, just checking. Mine sits on top of the tool box, it's probably the best tool you can have working on these cars. The books not perfect but it will get you through most of the typical jobs.
Old 05-31-2011, 10:33 PM
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Update. Got off my *** and filled the old compressor oiled the impact gun and damn it flywheel came off in a second. I really need to use that thing more often
Old 06-01-2011, 09:46 AM
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Pneumatic tools are your friend! Too bad I can't afford a nice big compressor...
Old 06-01-2011, 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by food nd cars
Update. Got off my *** and filled the old compressor oiled the impact gun and damn it flywheel came off in a second. I really need to use that thing more often
I used to be the same way. I have air and impact yet would rarely use it. Now I can't imagine not having it. Taking off those hard to reach/top trans/top drivers side bellhousing bolt(s) are quick and painless w/ an impact.
Old 06-01-2011, 10:40 AM
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i have a new dilemma.. The clutch looks worn, pressure plate and flywheel need to be resurfaced. So i have no problem putting in a new clutch and getting the parts resurfaced, but.. How can i break in the new engine properly if i can't romp on it because the new clutch isn't broken in yet? is this a problem some of you have faced before?

For engine break in i am referring to this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

how much RPMs should i be reaching with a new Comp. Clutch and a rebuilt engine on the first time out? i just want to make sure rings seal properly. but at the same time i don't want to F the clutch up
Old 06-01-2011, 11:32 AM
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If it were me I'd just romp on it anyway. I'd just do it after the clutch was fully engaged (not at dead stop and having to slip the clutch).
Old 06-01-2011, 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
If it were me I'd just romp on it anyway. I'd just do it after the clutch was fully engaged (not at dead stop and having to slip the clutch).
Yeah. I figured no burnouts or doughnuts for 500 miles haha.


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