how to disconnect M6 from LT1
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how to disconnect M6 from LT1 i just dropped the engine and transmission and i tried to disconnect the tranny. I first took off all the bolts from the bell housing and the 10mm bolts holding the plate in between. that would slide off so i disconnected the transmission from the bell housing and still no go.. They are loose but it seems like something is still holding on.
How do i take the tranny off from the engine?
How do i take the tranny off from the engine?
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
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From: Sacramento, CA
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 452
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
can't seem to get it off. Is there a certain way? its connected to the tranny so it can't just come off and i've tried tapping it out via hammer.. just won't budge.
btw tranny is on rolling platform and engine is on one also and ive been trying to wiggle it apart.
btw tranny is on rolling platform and engine is on one also and ive been trying to wiggle it apart.
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Thread Starter
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i had to relieve the tension because it was pulled apart then the fork slid right off.. that was easy.now the fly wheel? haha. is there a technique for that?
i know i ask stupid questions
Yes, use an impact gun, flywheel bolts will come right out. If you don't have one good luck! Pretty ugly any other way.
I had zero luck even with someone assisting me breaking the flywheel bolts loose the first time I ever tried to remove them. Next day borrowed a compressor and impact from the neighbor, had the flywheel off in no time.
I second that, I have a Haynes, a Chiltons, thought about looking for a factory manual set one of these days just to have them.
I had zero luck even with someone assisting me breaking the flywheel bolts loose the first time I ever tried to remove them. Next day borrowed a compressor and impact from the neighbor, had the flywheel off in no time.I second that, I have a Haynes, a Chiltons, thought about looking for a factory manual set one of these days just to have them.
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i have a haynes manual somewhere in the den, just figured replies on here would be shorter easier read than the old haynes manual. However, i'll tackle the flywheel tomorrow, get the accessories off the front and get it on an engine stand. hopefully..
Ok, just checking. Mine sits on top of the tool box, it's probably the best tool you can have working on these cars. The books not perfect but it will get you through most of the typical jobs.
I used to be the same way. I have air and impact yet would rarely use it. Now I can't imagine not having it. Taking off those hard to reach/top trans/top drivers side bellhousing bolt(s) are quick and painless w/ an impact.
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i have a new dilemma.. The clutch looks worn, pressure plate and flywheel need to be resurfaced. So i have no problem putting in a new clutch and getting the parts resurfaced, but.. How can i break in the new engine properly if i can't romp on it because the new clutch isn't broken in yet? is this a problem some of you have faced before?
For engine break in i am referring to this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
how much RPMs should i be reaching with a new Comp. Clutch and a rebuilt engine on the first time out? i just want to make sure rings seal properly. but at the same time i don't want to F the clutch up
For engine break in i am referring to this http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
how much RPMs should i be reaching with a new Comp. Clutch and a rebuilt engine on the first time out? i just want to make sure rings seal properly. but at the same time i don't want to F the clutch up
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