Turbo 383 Build.. AGAIN
#83
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The next test and tune is Friday. Weather is suppose to be nice so I will shoot for then.
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yes there are ones specifically for turbo applications.
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...locking+Lining
http://www.treadstoneperformance.com...locking+Lining
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I've had the same tires for the past 4 years. Nitto 555R 275/40r17. They are starting get thin.. maybe 2/32nds left. I'm thinking of getting 11" wheels and trying the Nitto NT05R.
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I did! I was so scared something was going to break, but she held up. My first run was the only clean pass with a 11.29@127.8mph 1.91 60ft. The 60ft is what's killing me. A new converter and tires should fix that. I need some more fine tuning. It sputters at the top of 1st and 2nd from either running too rich or hitting the rev limiter cause it's not shifting fast enough.
I was expecting 11.5's at this power level so I'm happy about that. I also weighed my car for the first time.. 3,505lbs.
I was expecting 11.5's at this power level so I'm happy about that. I also weighed my car for the first time.. 3,505lbs.
#90
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Congrats! What was the DA'? Did you launch under boost?
If you remember, one of my customers (1982z28with18s on cz28.com and skinnies on ls1tech.com) ran the following numbers with less power:
(5psi 1st and 2nd gear, 7psi in 3rd gear - 91 Octane 15 degrees timing) - 11.2 @ 121mph w/1.56 60'
(8lbs in 1st, 11.5 in 2nd and 3rd, lifting 1-2 shift and tranny wouldnt shift correctly - 91/110 Octane w/ 24 degrees timing) - 10.8 @ 127.8mph w/1.56 60'
1996 Formula
355ci 9.5:1 CR
LT1Boost Log Manifold kit (keeps A/C) with BB T76 Q trim and 44mm wastegate @ 11psi
Stock Heads
Stock Cam/intake/TB
TH400 w/ 4000 stall and 3.42 gears/10 bolt
Stock ECU
I think something is still going on as the mph should be higher IMO with your setup.
If you remember, one of my customers (1982z28with18s on cz28.com and skinnies on ls1tech.com) ran the following numbers with less power:
(5psi 1st and 2nd gear, 7psi in 3rd gear - 91 Octane 15 degrees timing) - 11.2 @ 121mph w/1.56 60'
(8lbs in 1st, 11.5 in 2nd and 3rd, lifting 1-2 shift and tranny wouldnt shift correctly - 91/110 Octane w/ 24 degrees timing) - 10.8 @ 127.8mph w/1.56 60'
1996 Formula
355ci 9.5:1 CR
LT1Boost Log Manifold kit (keeps A/C) with BB T76 Q trim and 44mm wastegate @ 11psi
Stock Heads
Stock Cam/intake/TB
TH400 w/ 4000 stall and 3.42 gears/10 bolt
Stock ECU
I think something is still going on as the mph should be higher IMO with your setup.
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Well just rub it in my face that my car is slow lol. Not sure on DA. I was launching off idle and boost doesn't kick in till right around 60'. One time I tried to stall it up to ~1,900 and it went sideways as soon as boost hit.
I believe I can go 10's if I get a solid launch. What would it take to build boost off the line? Just a higher stall? The Yank SS3200 I have was for bolt ons and doesn't work well on this setup. The 3.00 rear end gears don't help much either but I chose those for a specific reason.
I believe I can go 10's if I get a solid launch. What would it take to build boost off the line? Just a higher stall? The Yank SS3200 I have was for bolt ons and doesn't work well on this setup. The 3.00 rear end gears don't help much either but I chose those for a specific reason.
#92
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Well just rub it in my face that my car is slow lol. Not sure on DA. I was launching off idle and boost doesn't kick in till right around 60'. One time I tried to stall it up to ~1,900 and it went sideways as soon as boost hit.
I believe I can go 10's if I get a solid launch. What would it take to build boost off the line? Just a higher stall? The Yank SS3200 I have was for bolt ons and doesn't work well on this setup. The 3.00 rear end gears don't help much either but I chose those for a specific reason.
I believe I can go 10's if I get a solid launch. What would it take to build boost off the line? Just a higher stall? The Yank SS3200 I have was for bolt ons and doesn't work well on this setup. The 3.00 rear end gears don't help much either but I chose those for a specific reason.
What is your WOT timing and what was the final A/F from the tuning session?
BTW, PM skinnies about his combo, maybe he can recommend some tips.
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I wasn't involved much in the tuning process since that's the one thing I struggle with. My A/F seemed to be around 11.1 going down the track. I would have to ask my tuner what the WOT timing was. I tried out my new boost controller today and it wasn't spiking my boost like the other ones were. So I should be back on the dyno sometime to raise the boost and turn on the meth injection
Thanks dude!
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Jon, I'm glad you said something about those exhaust flex couplers. Check this out! The braid got pushed down to a 1 inch restriction!
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/MWRalls/IMG_2428.jpg)
The only reason I even removed the exhaust was because I'm dropping the transmission. I toasted the trans last night when I went back to the dyno for higher boost. I set my low boost setting to 9 psi and made 480hp. Then we put it to 18 psi and it made LESS hp. It took us a few pulls to figure out it was blowing through the converter. Took it back home and it was making all kinds of banging when the converter locks. Also cutting in and out when accelerating.
I'm not too upset about the trans because I already knew it was the weakest link. What I'm worried about is my rear end. First off, I have 3.00 gears and I just put on 28" tires which is making my ratio crazy low now. So I decided to change to something 3.50 or higher. I drained the diff fluid tonight there looks to be way too much fine metal in the fluid. I realize there is suppose to be some metal but I just changed the fluid about 1,000 miles ago and don't remember it being this bad. I also pulled the axles out last week to install new wheel studs and the fluid coating the axles were clean. It's been roughly 500 miles plus these dyno pulls since last week. What do you guys think of this fluid?
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/MWRalls/IMG_2428.jpg)
The only reason I even removed the exhaust was because I'm dropping the transmission. I toasted the trans last night when I went back to the dyno for higher boost. I set my low boost setting to 9 psi and made 480hp. Then we put it to 18 psi and it made LESS hp. It took us a few pulls to figure out it was blowing through the converter. Took it back home and it was making all kinds of banging when the converter locks. Also cutting in and out when accelerating.
I'm not too upset about the trans because I already knew it was the weakest link. What I'm worried about is my rear end. First off, I have 3.00 gears and I just put on 28" tires which is making my ratio crazy low now. So I decided to change to something 3.50 or higher. I drained the diff fluid tonight there looks to be way too much fine metal in the fluid. I realize there is suppose to be some metal but I just changed the fluid about 1,000 miles ago and don't remember it being this bad. I also pulled the axles out last week to install new wheel studs and the fluid coating the axles were clean. It's been roughly 500 miles plus these dyno pulls since last week. What do you guys think of this fluid?
![](http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h290/MWRalls/IMG_2430.jpg)
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I'm really confused to what happened to the rear end. The more I think about it, the fluid was definitely clean when I had the axles out last week. I since ran it down the track one time, made about 10 dyno pulls, and maybe 300 miles highway. Far less abuse than it's already experienced. I should have the center section out this weekend and hopefully find out what happened.