Low Profile Oil filter and why brand of Oil
06-07-2011, 02:55 PM
#21
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In my dd '08 trailblazer and wifes '11 Outback I run the M1 15k mi oil and a M1 filter. Run all my dd cars to 15k on it for the past 10 years without a single internal problem. Just use the RP in the z because it has been reported to add a few extra hp. I only put a few thousand a year on it and change it so I'm not so concerned about any 'breakdown' of the oil.
06-07-2011, 08:10 PM
#27
Have we not learned anything along the way? STAY AWAY FROM ANY FRAM OIL FILTER LIKE IT'S THE PLAQUE.
German Castrol and Cummins Fleetgaurd oil filters are what I use. Having failed that, Mobil One oil & filters would be my second choice. Wix, K&N, RP are good filters. Most synthetic oil is good, RP is certainly at the bottom of the choices of synthetics yet is the most expensive-why use it??
And never, ever use an oil additive or "stabilizer".
Not slammin Royal Purple here, they make the best ATF that foams the least.
German Castrol and Cummins Fleetgaurd oil filters are what I use. Having failed that, Mobil One oil & filters would be my second choice. Wix, K&N, RP are good filters. Most synthetic oil is good, RP is certainly at the bottom of the choices of synthetics yet is the most expensive-why use it??
And never, ever use an oil additive or "stabilizer".
Not slammin Royal Purple here, they make the best ATF that foams the least.
06-08-2011, 05:22 AM
#28
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don't just buy into the BS do some research and check out the UOA's. hell theres been numerous UOA's posted on tech, search and READ.
I run M1 in both my engine & trans & wix filters personally. after I get it rebuilt down the road I'll switch over to the GC, just don't want to run 0w w/ 80k miles.
and for those gullible people still dropping stupid amounts of money on RP-> http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,b1M25KBS
want to buy some z-max to go along with that? add a tornado and zzzing!
I run M1 in both my engine & trans & wix filters personally. after I get it rebuilt down the road I'll switch over to the GC, just don't want to run 0w w/ 80k miles.
and for those gullible people still dropping stupid amounts of money on RP-> http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,b1M25KBS
want to buy some z-max to go along with that? add a tornado and zzzing!
06-08-2011, 08:34 AM
#29
Have we not learned anything along the way? STAY AWAY FROM ANY FRAM OIL FILTER LIKE IT'S THE PLAQUE.
German Castrol and Cummins Fleetgaurd oil filters are what I use. Having failed that, Mobil One oil & filters would be my second choice. Wix, K&N, RP are good filters. Most synthetic oil is good, RP is certainly at the bottom of the choices of synthetics yet is the most expensive-why use it??
And never, ever use an oil additive or "stabilizer".
Not slammin Royal Purple here, they make the best ATF that foams the least.
German Castrol and Cummins Fleetgaurd oil filters are what I use. Having failed that, Mobil One oil & filters would be my second choice. Wix, K&N, RP are good filters. Most synthetic oil is good, RP is certainly at the bottom of the choices of synthetics yet is the most expensive-why use it??
And never, ever use an oil additive or "stabilizer".
Not slammin Royal Purple here, they make the best ATF that foams the least.
A lot of guys run their tall race filter, myself included.
06-08-2011, 01:08 PM
#30
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I agree I can crush a standard fram filter with my hand, not so with the race filter.But, I use wix filters and Mobile 1 or valvoline if conventional.
06-08-2011, 04:35 PM
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don't just buy into the BS do some research and check out the UOA's. hell theres been numerous UOA's posted on tech, search and READ.
I run M1 in both my engine & trans & wix filters personally. after I get it rebuilt down the road I'll switch over to the GC, just don't want to run 0w w/ 80k miles.
and for those gullible people still dropping stupid amounts of money on RP-> http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,b1M25KBS
want to buy some z-max to go along with that? add a tornado and zzzing!
I run M1 in both my engine & trans & wix filters personally. after I get it rebuilt down the road I'll switch over to the GC, just don't want to run 0w w/ 80k miles.
and for those gullible people still dropping stupid amounts of money on RP-> http://www.imakenews.com/lng/e_artic...mW6PM,b1M25KBS
want to buy some z-max to go along with that? add a tornado and zzzing!
06-08-2011, 07:58 PM
#36
To the OP's original question, if you want a short filter just use what the application book says to use for your car, the F Body LT1 filters are very short. I use the taller truck filter to get more filter media and oil capacity.
As to brands of oil and filter, it is certainly true that lots of people just use what they think is best with no real reason for it. I did some research on filters and came away liking Purolator Pureone and Bosch for my own personal use. They are similar in quality to the premium filters (Mobil 1 and K&N) at about half the price. As for oil the European Formula Castrol Syntec always produces great UOAs, that's probably what I'd run if my car didn't drink oil.
As to brands of oil and filter, it is certainly true that lots of people just use what they think is best with no real reason for it. I did some research on filters and came away liking Purolator Pureone and Bosch for my own personal use. They are similar in quality to the premium filters (Mobil 1 and K&N) at about half the price. As for oil the European Formula Castrol Syntec always produces great UOAs, that's probably what I'd run if my car didn't drink oil.
06-08-2011, 08:12 PM
#37
just run a fram ph30 with a valvoline oil...........no need to go wasting your hard earned money on fancy looking boxes and bottles..........i been running frams and valvoline in everything i own and ive never once had an issue with anything..........i run the VR1 Valvoline in my LT1 and the Valvoline Synthetic in my LS2 gto.......and the high mileage valvoline in my truck.......cheap and great oil....
06-08-2011, 08:50 PM
#38
Yes, the Fram racing filters are OK but no better than a M1 filter.
Yes, Amsoil is one of the good brands of synthetic oils, there's too many decent brands to list.
In my area, RP is always over seven bucks a quart, That's ludicrous. Highway robbery even. Castrol Syntec (including the GC) is often on sale at Pep Boys and Auto Zone for like 25 bucks for five quarts and a toss away cheapo filter like a Fram or bottom line Chumpion. Once, they had a similar sale Castrol sale with K&N filters.
OP, you asked why we'd recommend certain oils. I recommend German Castrol because it has shown to have the best breakdown resistance at high temperatures compared to other oils and it universally gets best ratings over at BITOG.
Yes, Amsoil is one of the good brands of synthetic oils, there's too many decent brands to list.
In my area, RP is always over seven bucks a quart, That's ludicrous. Highway robbery even. Castrol Syntec (including the GC) is often on sale at Pep Boys and Auto Zone for like 25 bucks for five quarts and a toss away cheapo filter like a Fram or bottom line Chumpion. Once, they had a similar sale Castrol sale with K&N filters.
OP, you asked why we'd recommend certain oils. I recommend German Castrol because it has shown to have the best breakdown resistance at high temperatures compared to other oils and it universally gets best ratings over at BITOG.
Last edited by Paul Bell; 06-08-2011 at 11:42 PM.
06-08-2011, 10:07 PM
#39
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I been using Redline ATF in my transmission for a few years now and like it a lot. Car seems to shift smoother than it does with anything else. I was just curious if their motor oil is as good.
06-08-2011, 11:25 PM
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I did some research on filters and came away liking Purolator Pureone and Bosch for my own personal use. They are similar in quality to the premium filters (Mobil 1 and K&N) at about half the price. As for oil the European Formula Castrol Syntec always produces great UOAs, that's probably what I'd run if my car didn't drink oil.
Granted, it's only been a problem on the model number for my truck.