Passed Test #1....I dont hear any High RPM Breakup!!!! VIDEO
#1
Passed Test #1....I dont hear any High RPM Breakup!!!! VIDEO
Well after another round of fixes i took the car for a ride.........seems really good.......runs well seems to not stumble at idle any more or anything.........i made a pull with the car from about 40mph to 140 or so with the full exhaust on the car and a bit lower timing and it ran really good.........this is through a 3" Y pipe and with only 30* of timing............hopefully it will run this well with the exhaust off too...........hoping i got the high rpm breakup finally fixed!!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDgw7S84gFA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2Z0DxihetI
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rDgw7S84gFA
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y2Z0DxihetI
Last edited by quik95lt1; 06-23-2011 at 08:43 AM.
#3
yea im hoping its finally fixed..........real test is with the exhaust off.......thing gains about 75rwhp with the exhaust open........yea mines the same i had the shift light at 7850 on these pulls but with the exhaust off it pulled to 8200 last year.......dont see why it wouldn't this year
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#11
thanks tony!!
yea im hoping its finally fixed..........real test is with the exhaust off.......thing gains about 75rwhp with the exhaust open........yea mines the same i had the shift light at 7850 on these pulls but with the exhaust off it pulled to 8200 last year.......dont see why it wouldn't this year
yea im hoping its finally fixed..........real test is with the exhaust off.......thing gains about 75rwhp with the exhaust open........yea mines the same i had the shift light at 7850 on these pulls but with the exhaust off it pulled to 8200 last year.......dont see why it wouldn't this year
#13
sorry guys i was quite busy yesterday...........anyway hers what i did this time around to try and fix the issues............as far as i know it seems fixed.......ive yet to run it with just the race mufflers but it seems damn good with the full exhaust on.....so i have my hopes..
1. Car has a brand new ignition coil (dont think this was the issue however)
2. Brand new cap and rotor.......i drilled the old cap and watched the contacts and re-phased the cap and rotor with the engine running.....the phasing was off a tad.....and the old cap didn't look too good due to the slightly off phasing
3. I drilled the new cap and vented it using engine vacuum and a fresh air hose to the front of the engine bay (even with my whopping 5inhg of vacuum lol) this should keep fresh air cycling through the cap at all times which will keep the static charge of the air down and hopefully eliminate or drastically reduce the possibility of cross sparking inside the dizzy
4. I unplugged my cam sensor and grounded all un-used inputs on the XFI ignition triggering circuits......so no input will be able to be falsely triggered by EMI....
...... i did pick up evidence of falsely triggered inputs on my data log from the xfi......see this post here........
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...check-out.html
5. I ran a new sheilded twisted conductor wire to the crank trigger vs. the standard TL wire i had going to it........the sheild and inner spare conductor are grounded to the battery -.....
6. I removed all plug wires and shortened them as much as possible.......also re-routed all of them and got them as far as possible away from any signal wires and each other....again to avoid emi
7. I installed a noise filter on the power lead to the MSD box again in an attempt to reduce any noise being back fed through the power lines into the system of the car by the MSD 7AL Box
i got a good feeling that this has solved the problem...........after seeign the false triggering of the xfi and the evidence of a large emi/rfi issue in the xfi datalog i took all these steps to reduce these problems.......the car seems to be running muchh better........idling better.......sounds better.......and no more low rpm stubles espically at idle.........the rain has been killing me lately but this weekend im GOING racing somewhere regardless if I have to drive down to Atco or E-town.........
1. Car has a brand new ignition coil (dont think this was the issue however)
2. Brand new cap and rotor.......i drilled the old cap and watched the contacts and re-phased the cap and rotor with the engine running.....the phasing was off a tad.....and the old cap didn't look too good due to the slightly off phasing
3. I drilled the new cap and vented it using engine vacuum and a fresh air hose to the front of the engine bay (even with my whopping 5inhg of vacuum lol) this should keep fresh air cycling through the cap at all times which will keep the static charge of the air down and hopefully eliminate or drastically reduce the possibility of cross sparking inside the dizzy
4. I unplugged my cam sensor and grounded all un-used inputs on the XFI ignition triggering circuits......so no input will be able to be falsely triggered by EMI....
...... i did pick up evidence of falsely triggered inputs on my data log from the xfi......see this post here........
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...check-out.html
5. I ran a new sheilded twisted conductor wire to the crank trigger vs. the standard TL wire i had going to it........the sheild and inner spare conductor are grounded to the battery -.....
6. I removed all plug wires and shortened them as much as possible.......also re-routed all of them and got them as far as possible away from any signal wires and each other....again to avoid emi
7. I installed a noise filter on the power lead to the MSD box again in an attempt to reduce any noise being back fed through the power lines into the system of the car by the MSD 7AL Box
i got a good feeling that this has solved the problem...........after seeign the false triggering of the xfi and the evidence of a large emi/rfi issue in the xfi datalog i took all these steps to reduce these problems.......the car seems to be running muchh better........idling better.......sounds better.......and no more low rpm stubles espically at idle.........the rain has been killing me lately but this weekend im GOING racing somewhere regardless if I have to drive down to Atco or E-town.........
#14
Motor sounds incredible and pulls hard. This is tremedous info on shift points and your power band up top. Especially with the exhaust un-corked. What size are your LT headers? PM is fine if that work better. I hope to have my set-up on the rollers in a few weeks. I will definitely make some pulls now with the cut-outs open after hearing this.
#15
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5. I ran a new sheilded twisted conductor wire to the crank trigger vs. the standard TL wire i had going to it........the sheild and inner spare conductor are grounded to the battery -.....
7. I installed a noise filter on the power lead to the MSD box again in an attempt to reduce any noise being back fed through the power lines into the system of the car by the MSD 7AL Box