IronOutlaw

iTrader: (4)

No. It's two different cars. I was running stock oreilly wires with the pacesetters.

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

Painted headers will rust out quickly in Chicago. This is an investment, if you want a return on your times and the money you spent, spend it on parts that are worth it and will last you a long time. Otherwise you will be buying cheap parst that won't work as good and will have to buy the real parts shortly down the road. It will cost you twice as much to do it 70% now!

Torque Fiend

iTrader: (6)

I'm from Chicago, and use my TA in the winter. I have coated Pacesetters, not painted and even those started rusting within 2 years. The collectors are pretty damn rusty already. Pacesetters, have great fitment though, and I got mine for super cheap slightly used from Florida.

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

Fast,cheap, reliable.......pick two lol

bizerk1

i wont be driving it in winter unless it isnt snowing, and ill look into coated ones

madmike9396

iTrader: (29)

Sell your car, keep the 1200 and Add to it when possible and buy a LS1 !

if not buy a stall and some drag radials

LarsV8

I think this is a person who should use the hot cam kit.

bizerk1

I dont want a hot cam i would like to do a 396 w/ le2 heads with a custom cam, and rear mount turbo , or ls1 that i would have built before dropping it in and putting in a rear mount turbo, why get a ls1 car when I can put it in this and not have to worry about emissions. I dont feel like going through selling this, I would trade + cash for ls1 though but that wouldnt happen b.c ppl w. there ls1 dont want to trade for lt

bizerk1

how are pi vig tq converter if it 3200 stall? would that be good?
or higher

irocurpony8489

iTrader: (2)

that would work good since pi are alittle looser then the others.

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

I took excerps from a few of your posts to show a contradiction to what you want and what you are saying.I realize one is in reponse to selling your car for an LS equipped car, but it still shows frame of mind, and lack of knowledge and understanding. You are saying two COMPLETELY different things. You are also using the words Budget and wanting performance, but still have reservations becaue you want an SS hood to go with your "ss rear".
I thought up until now most of the recommendations have been straight forward and somewhat thoughtful and helpful. For your goals and budget the hotcam kit fits the bill. If your car truly does have a cam in it, it should already be turnin 13's. For $1200 you couldnt even buy the machine work needed for a 396.

My advice to you would be as it is to anyone. Doesnt matter how much power you make or how you make it, if you can't get it to the ground it ain't ****. Build your cra suspension first, get everything tied in so it can handle the power and keep it to the ground. With it being an auto I would stall it with a QUALITY converter anywhee from 3000-3600 since you are DDing it. Pair that with 3.73's out back and you will swear you have a new car......from there I would (in your case) work on the headers and exhaust, and then start adding to the engine.

bizerk1

Yea I was just saying the 396 with le2 heads for the future. I am wanting it at least want to put down 350-370rwhp that could put down a 13.00 or if better would be great until then I want to start with doing some prep work. The ss rear end is the rear end I believe the gears so it would be wat a 3.42? I want an SS hood b.c they r the best looking hood for the camaro IMO and I hate this stock z28 hood that has like this 1in bondo mark plus spider webbin going on

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

No problems with wanting your car to look good. I promise you the advice I laid out in the above post is legit. If you build it in that order you will have the best results. It sucks spending moeny on suspension parts because initially you don't get that seat of the pants feeling. However whn you do the other mods after that, they each respond amazingly. Then by the time you do get around to your motor everything else is in place and will take what you can throw at it, except for the new rear you will eventually need lol

bizerk1

what are the key suspension stuff, lca and tq arms but isnt there clearance issues with certain headers? I think this round I am going to end up with 1.6rr and LT/ y pipe and a tq converter and a starter since im haveing starter issues. Then round 2 in about 2m will be lca, tq arm, subfrme conn, and ss hood.

But I may be able to pick up so lca on tuesday if speed inc still have there sale, are non adj umi lcas worth it/ good ?
Im also going to try to squeeze out cash for 160 tstat and bbk ud pulley

Then obviosly get tune after everythng

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

I recommend that you read a lot of the threads on this site, do a ton of research and please get some baseline numbers. And I would recommend doing all the FREE mods.. good luck on your build.

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

And I have regular painted pacesetter "race only" headers...they fit great..but just look crappy from the surface rust.

bizerk1

ima do some weight removal when the time comes, Q? while i am thinkin of these rr if I go to 1.6rr do i need to change the pushrod are the pushrod same length? or lifters or can I keep them stock for a while?

I have some xtra cash outside the budget to do this starter and hopefully lca's if you guys recommend the lca
and i will get the 160 tstat since i think mine is bad newayz

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

So far as LCA's are concerned the stockers are stamped steel and they are not boxed you can put a screwdriver in the eyelet and twist it all the way around with one hand. It doesnt have to be an adjustable LCA, ANYTHING is better than stock. If you do not plan on lowering the car those will be fine. If you plan on lowering it you should get lca relocation brackets and adjustable lcas. You should get a new TA and subframe connectors as well.

To answer your other Q's RR's are just replace, no need to change anything else at the moment. You will probably have to clearance your vlave covers. I wouldn't waste my time on the UD pulley at all. I have seen more harm than good due to te fact they undercharge the alternator, so unless you change that pulley too, its not worth it.

96azz28

To answer your question on how to find out if you have tg converter just press the brake all the way down and slightly press on the gas and just watch and see how high you can rev it. I think stock you can rev it up to 1500 rpms

bizerk1

and if it goes past that then it isnt stock? how do u clear the valve covers? The car has aftermarket struts, there are a set of umi subfrc and adj lca with brackets for sale on craig list near me should i get them or a new set? Thx for the help guys