andrew ws6

Alright I have had my car running for a year now and am bored with it. Let me start off with the fact that I don't care about 1/4 mile time or numbers, maybe oneday I will but i just enjoy driving. I want to add a supercharger on my existing setup I will list what I have below thanks in advance for the help.


2 bolt block, arp studs
stock rods, arp bolts
speed pro forged pistons w/ moly rings
cc 503 cam
ls7 lifters
stock heads
1.6 rr
52mm tb
pacesetter lt
! air egr and cats
255 walhbro pump
pistons claimed a 10.4 cr with stock heads
engine dynoed with the tune at 343/363

What do yall think sc this one and ride or start over?

Andrew

defaultexistence

iTrader: (11)

Well what exactly about it bores you? If you got the coin, sure... Throw a SC at it... OR get some head work and a cam matched along with converter ...

duh

iTrader: (16)

Couple of basic questions...Stock ported heads? Budget? Forged pistons?

You could in theory put a supercharger on it. I still would not run much over 8 psi due to a few things. One your ring gaps are not set for a blower motor, if you heat the rings up too much with the added combustion pressure the gaps close and then you end up breaking pistons. Second the cam is not ideal, nor are the rods. And the heads will be a large restriction. For a driver, then yea you can do it, but remember you're going to need bigger injectors and a tune at minimum to be safe. But if you keep the boost low and aren't trying to set any records you'll be fine. If you want the mot out of it, get another block and go from there. Just my $.02.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

First question is what are you running for trans gears and suspension? If you dont have the suspension whats the point in adding more power and going nowhere? Are you an A4 or M6? If an auto and being bored i can see you not having a stall converter or 2.73 lazy gears. Once we get that out of the way we can start to help you go in the right direction.

IMO i would keep it N/A and buy a matched set of heads and cam from AI or LE and bump the compression up. That CC503 is a very mild cam so if your looking for more power its got to go. Adding compression and a bigger matched heads cam setup will pick you up easily 50rwhp and make it whole new car to drive.

andrew ws6

Rode in my friends stang that was sc whole nother world from my car.

Not looking for a dyno queen and I drive this car a good bit and dont want a lot of compression and huge cam to mess up drivability.

andrew ws6

Yes stock heads, Forged pistons, and i dont have a budget I make my mind up for what I want and work till I get it.

Understood I'm not looking to kill it, just have a little more fun.

andrew ws6

M6 stock suspension, 3.73 gears. I am looking more into the sc to keep the drivability But I have never rode a big head and cam car so school me on how they act.

duh

iTrader: (16)

a car with Big heads and a rowdy cam can be street driven....It all depends on what you want to put up with. Big cams, typically pull very little vacuum. Therefore it can be hard to stop, the heat selector may not move very quick, and sometimes if not tuned properly you get bad driveability. Now there are solutions to each problem. Want power brakes? convert to hydra-boost. Want vacuum accessories to work? put in a vacuum can. Want ti to idle at 600 rpm? Not going to happen (depending on how big you go). It's all about what are you willing to live with. Me, if I build my motor will be far and gone from what most people consider DD, but I will. If you're looking for stop light to stop light fun, put some 4.11's in it, an do a H/C job. From there you can decide if it's still not enough, save and build a motor better equipped to handle the boost. That will keep your "eye" for a little while at least....

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

If you dead set on a blowe setup you have to build a motor designed for it to make it last or your playing with fire. Yes you have a set of decent pistons but likely the stock rods will not hold up to extra abuse. If you keep it the way it is even at 10.4cr even 8lbs is borderline. This is why i said it above you need to build a motor around the blower in mind to make it safe and reliable.

As said above having big cams can have there cons for driveability but there are things to overcome them. Tune is key to any h/c making it drive nicely and be able to daily it. The cc503 is very flat line it builds power all the way up from idle to 6k. You dont notice the power increase as say a bigger radical cam would. Typically 3500-4000 is where most bigger cams power comes on. So you get on it and doesnt really do much untill then but when it does it puts you in the seat and pulls all the way to 6500+. If you were to either put a small thin gasket and mill the heads down to a decent amount to get bump 1 to 2 points more you easily gain 10-20rwhp just doing that let alone porting. Porting should net you roughly 20rwhp and a cam dependent on what you get can add 10-20rwhp overtop of that cc503. You can easily build a 400rwhp+ car that drives nicely and pulls like ****.

gatorhead

iTrader: (4)

You haven't received bad info from the posts above. I think there is plenty of great advice contained in there, but I fell like it is advice based upon an incomplete goal. You really haven't described what you are after other than stating you are bored with it. I am not bashing you, I am just trying to get a better understanding of what you are after and we could offer better advice from there.

What year was mustang, and what were the mods? Your setup should be able to eat most mustangs, and for the better part of the last decade they have all been supercharged, its the only way they could stay competitive.
Explain what it weas that was so different for you......that will help us with a feel for what ya want.
Depending on where in Bama you are I am sure we could line you up for a ride with someone with a setup similar to what ya want<---thats the cool thing about these forums when everybody plays nice

Camaroking1996

For a supercharger get a better cam, ported heads, higher stall and gears, ported intake, and full bolt ons, then u will be ready for a supercharger

andrew ws6

The mustang is a 95 with a 347 trickflow heads cam specs are real close to mine and a vortech supercharger.

Not trying to be mean at all but I am not wanting to go heads and cam yet all I am really wanting to know is will it hold a sc. Sorry if this statement pisses anyone off but I want to be different don the heads and cam crowd.
Also why can u run a sc on a stock engine and all is good but when you talk about it on a built engine with better pistons and bolts is it a no no

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

As i posted earlier 10.4cr is on the highside for boosting. Yes you have a set of forged slugs but stock rods are where i would draw the line and be cautious. Your cr is the issue right now for a boosted application you need to get it down to run safe and have longevity. What are you currently running for a headgasket right now? You could try and swap gaskets to lower it a bit or resort to buying a set of AFR or TFS 62-65cc heads which is a win win for you help the motor and make way more power. Once you get the compression down to 9.5 you are lot better off. This is what you need to consentrate on right now before you put the blower on your car.

duh

iTrader: (16)

Ford inherently handle boost better than chevy's. Could be a number of factors, most being that in 87 they started putting forged parts in them from the factory. Plus head design is a bit different and flows a bit better. Now you won't upset anyone with wanting to put a SC on your car, they're just not going about the correct way of telling you it's not the best idea. Stock cars and superchargers don't typically last too long when driven on a regular basis and occasionally driven hard. What they are tying to say is if you just add boost to an engine as an after thought, it typically turns out bad. Now you can do it, by all means, it is your car. But if you take your time and build an engine to handle it from the ground up, you will be happier with the results. Just slapping a blower on your car may jump your RWHP #'s up to 450. Now if you build the engine appropriately you can see north of 600 RWHP running more boost and being more reliable. It's all up to you, they're just doing a really crappy job of not recommending it. It's your car. I'd say your engine can handle a stock kit from Vortech or similar, but I wouldn't go adding much more than that or you're potentially asking for trouble.

323steel36

click on this link
youl find what you want.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Power...Q5fAccessories

duh

iTrader: (16)

that would work fine....just be forewarned you can potentially destroy your engine if you're not very careful...that's all everyone has been trying to say

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

Just get your heads ported. leave the cc503 in there and run 6 lbs on the street and 8 at the track. You should be just fine. People are just as scared of boost as they are nitrous. if you keep the CR at 10.4 then run a intercooled setup. when/if you do go through with this get a large head gasket to lower the CR a bit.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

CC503 is not the best idea to be used with a s/c. If your looking for a good off the shelf blower cam get the CC305 on the 114lsa. The smoother the LSA the more ideal it is for a blower setup. As we keep saying over and over again if you want a blower you build the motor around it. Dont know how many times we have to keep bringing this up

duh

iTrader: (16)

jeez, the guy just wanted to know if he could safely put a blower on his existing engine. Answer is yes, but it would make more power if it was a dedicated build. If he's just looking to have fun on the street it wouldn't hurt anything.

nitrous2fast

iTrader: (2)

Why change cams?????? He already has the 503... this isn't a debate over what cam would be best. If that were the case you shouldn't be giving him a cam from the XE family. XFI would be the best bet for him. His cam is fine for what he needs.

Also LSA doesn't get smoother or rougher. It gets wider or narrower. Also there is a lot more than picking out a cam based on the LSA. For example. The 305 you mentioned has a LSA of 114 and it has 55 degrees of overlap. The 466XFI has a LSA of 113 but has only 46 degrees of overlap. which do you think would be better??? overlap is the concern when adding boost.

Back on topic: Keep the 503, SC it and run a slightly lower boost 6-8lbs. hell if you run race gas pump it up to around 10lbs. Keep the rpms around the 6000 area and you should be just fine.