Plan is motor's going in tomorrow. The BMR k-frame is already in. Question is, is it a possibility to install the engine with the serpentine belt system (minus the AC) through the top?

Obviously the headers are a no go but I'd like to make sure the accesory belt lines up with the new Fluidampr.

 

When I was putting my eng back in it was just the long block by it self no hub either and it was a tight fit

 

I have to put it in with the balancer on. Did you have you're raidator still in the bay?

 

hell no

 

The balanced will hit the radiator support if its on the engine. Make sure the chain in toward the back so you can tilt the engine into place easier.

 

Balancer will fit if u have the radiator out. U will have to turn the motor toward the passenger side, but it will fit. We have took several motors out and put them in with the balancer on. It also helps to have a very long extension on your cherry picker.

 

Your going to need to take everything off the engine. As stated including the crank hub.

 

It can go in with the opti and hub on but I had to extend my boom on the cherry picker and I used the happy hooker lifting plate with a big hook and short chain out of the boom and turned the engine to the passenger side when going in. I also have a moroso pan on it. car was on the ground, no jack. I do say it is a hold your breath and pray situation when I use the happy hooker though lol. This pick was of the first time it went in. after head gaskets failed and it went back in the second time I did it with the opti and hub both on all by my self. I think I could even get it in and out with the water pump on but it may be a lot tighter squeez. no way to do it with Acc's on or even the damper for that matter.

 

Put mine in complete, everything except the exhaust. Balancer, waterpump, intake and all. Did not have the bracket that holds the alternator, power steering pump and AC. And no torque converter, but the flex plate was on. I even had the starter on but had to take it off.

Al 95 Z28

 

Well here's the thing, I primed the engine yesterday with the balancer off and oil poured out of the front timing cover. Was gonna put the balancer on and prime it again to make sure nothing leaked.

 

It poors out because it fills the vally and runs down the timing chain. Primming the oil system again is not going to show you if you have leaks in seals, only if something was missed like an oil passage unplugged or fitting not on. Untill the engine gets up to temp and is running you wont know if seals and what have you are gonna leak. I will tell you right now if you have a groove on the water pump drive where it contacts the seal in the timing cover...its gonna leak. This is the only oil leak I have on my fresh 383 and it is driving me nuts because I know I have to tear the entire fron of the engine apart to do it.

 

Yet another reason why you should go through the bottom.

I know that doesn't help you right now...carry on!

 

That sucks. But my timing cover WP drive is welded shut so that's one less thing to worry about..

LMAO! I still can. It's only the k-frame and a-arms that's bolted up. What's another 10 bolts and another 2 hours of my time. The reason why I'm doing it this way is because I need the engine weight to compress the springs to attatch the brake spindles to the upper a-arm.

 

We put the short block in with balencer, water pump on, no radiator. Went right in. Bolting the top end on in the car.

 

I always do it with my ATI balancer on, but no accessories.

 

Cool.

 

Where can the "happy hooker" be bought??

 

Where ever crack is SOLD....

 

Lol ... Seriously though

 

I believe TPIS invented it and I think they still sell them.