My first 383 Build
09-28-2011, 05:26 PM
#28
He didn't say that.........
He is saying lower compression ratios are better for a boosted app. 11:1 isn't a bad compression ratio you could have went a lil higher yes but 11:1 is to high for any type of boost. Keep what you haven now and spray it.
He is saying lower compression ratios are better for a boosted app. 11:1 isn't a bad compression ratio you could have went a lil higher yes but 11:1 is to high for any type of boost. Keep what you haven now and spray it.
09-28-2011, 05:40 PM
#29
11.1 is too low for a proper NA/nitrous setup and too high for a proper boost setup. Most guys who put ported heads and a bigger cam in a stock shortblock run more compression.
We could have helped a whole lot more had you asked questions from people who know what they are doing beforehand.
Should contact a magazine though, you build is a magazine dream build, might be able to get your car some ink.
What is the .050" duration on the cam?
We could have helped a whole lot more had you asked questions from people who know what they are doing beforehand.
Should contact a magazine though, you build is a magazine dream build, might be able to get your car some ink.
What is the .050" duration on the cam?
09-28-2011, 07:28 PM
#30
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11.1 is too low for a proper NA/nitrous setup and too high for a proper boost setup. Most guys who put ported heads and a bigger cam in a stock shortblock run more compression.
We could have helped a whole lot more had you asked questions from people who know what they are doing beforehand.
Should contact a magazine though, you build is a magazine dream build, might be able to get your car some ink.
What is the .050" duration on the cam?
We could have helped a whole lot more had you asked questions from people who know what they are doing beforehand.
Should contact a magazine though, you build is a magazine dream build, might be able to get your car some ink.
What is the .050" duration on the cam?
09-28-2011, 08:13 PM
#31
CPrice I haven't slammed my engine in the car yet with this damned rain every fricken weekend, so I haven't had a chnce to enjoy anything yet. However I went with the setup because it's getting harder and harder to find anyone local to me who even tunes LT1s anymore and everyone can tune LSx plus I like the coil per cylinder setup. It's more reliable than the opti and cheaper than going DFI or something else aftermarket.
09-28-2011, 08:38 PM
#32
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CPrice I haven't slammed my engine in the car yet with this damned rain every fricken weekend, so I haven't had a chnce to enjoy anything yet. However I went with the setup because it's getting harder and harder to find anyone local to me who even tunes LT1s anymore and everyone can tune LSx plus I like the coil per cylinder setup. It's more reliable than the opti and cheaper than going DFI or something else aftermarket.
09-28-2011, 08:43 PM
#33
Now you are running a SLIGHTLY different intake but the successful LT1 383 hydraulic builds are usually more like mid 230s for intake duration and over .600lift with modern springs and lobes. The ultra short intake runners shift the rpm range upwards quite a bit. With cams that much shorter duration than your's they can go all the way to the pcm's limitations. Stock shortblocks go to 7100rpms on cams under 230degrees.
IMO the only thing that will keep the top of your power curve usable will be those heads choking the engine. With ported heads that cam would have likely peaked up in the 7000rpm range, ideally you have room to rev past peak HP by 4-500rpm so you use the whole top of the curve. The pcm will only handle 7-7200 depending on which one and if you got a good one.
If you have ignition troubles the MSD opti should be your first suspect as they are a step backwards from stock.
Even on the bottle I think 3.90-4.10s would have been a better choice, the double overdrive eats it right up on the road and even the 4.10s would let you hit 140mph with a 28" tire in 4th
Hope you prove me wrong and the thing makes 450rwhp and runs low 11s NA, but I don't think so, I think you got a lot of poor information based on gen 1 stuff and this is going to be a high 11 second NA car.
I think you could have gotten more for less by asking questions FIRST.
Look at RamAir95TA's setup as an example of a well done hydraulic cammed 383, you can see all the mods in the for sale link in his sig. In benchracing your setup is theoretically better, at the track though it will be a different story entirely, you would need the jug to challenge his car's performance.
09-28-2011, 09:00 PM
#34
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Now you are running a SLIGHTLY different intake but the successful LT1 383 hydraulic builds are usually more like mid 230s for intake duration and over .600lift with modern springs and lobes. The ultra short intake runners shift the rpm range upwards quite a bit. With cams that much shorter duration than your's they can go all the way to the pcm's limitations. Stock shortblocks go to 7100rpms on cams under 230degrees.
IMO the only thing that will keep the top of your power curve usable will be those heads choking the engine. With ported heads that cam would have likely peaked up in the 7000rpm range, ideally you have room to rev past peak HP by 4-500rpm so you use the whole top of the curve. The pcm will only handle 7-7200 depending on which one and if you got a good one.
If you have ignition troubles the MSD opti should be your first suspect as they are a step backwards from stock.
Even on the bottle I think 3.90-4.10s would have been a better choice, the double overdrive eats it right up on the road and even the 4.10s would let you hit 140mph with a 28" tire in 4th
Hope you prove me wrong and the thing makes 450rwhp and runs low 11s NA, but I don't think so, I think you got a lot of poor information based on gen 1 stuff and this is going to be a high 11 second NA car.
I think you could have gotten more for less by asking questions FIRST.
Look at RamAir95TA's setup as an example of a well done hydraulic cammed 383, you can see all the mods in the for sale link in his sig. In benchracing your setup is theoretically better, at the track though it will be a different story entirely, you would need the jug to challenge his car's performance.
IMO the only thing that will keep the top of your power curve usable will be those heads choking the engine. With ported heads that cam would have likely peaked up in the 7000rpm range, ideally you have room to rev past peak HP by 4-500rpm so you use the whole top of the curve. The pcm will only handle 7-7200 depending on which one and if you got a good one.
If you have ignition troubles the MSD opti should be your first suspect as they are a step backwards from stock.
Even on the bottle I think 3.90-4.10s would have been a better choice, the double overdrive eats it right up on the road and even the 4.10s would let you hit 140mph with a 28" tire in 4th
Hope you prove me wrong and the thing makes 450rwhp and runs low 11s NA, but I don't think so, I think you got a lot of poor information based on gen 1 stuff and this is going to be a high 11 second NA car.
I think you could have gotten more for less by asking questions FIRST.
Look at RamAir95TA's setup as an example of a well done hydraulic cammed 383, you can see all the mods in the for sale link in his sig. In benchracing your setup is theoretically better, at the track though it will be a different story entirely, you would need the jug to challenge his car's performance.
10-05-2011, 10:33 PM
#37
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Got a tune fro pcmforless coming in.Should be here tomorrow.Will keep everyone posted on the build.
Ps. Thanks to everyones input. Learned a few things for being a newbie to the lt1 scene.
Ps. Thanks to everyones input. Learned a few things for being a newbie to the lt1 scene.
