Use stock rods for 355?
09-13-2011, 11:19 AM
#21
My 355 is forged rods/pistons with splayed 4 bolt mains with a stock crank...it turns 400rwhp on motor and handles an .88 jet just fine. For your goals, stock rods and crank are fine, upgrade to forged pistons and arp bolts everywhere and you'll be fine a 150 shot.
09-13-2011, 02:20 PM
#22
A stock crank will take all the power your willing to throw at it but its been proven many times on this board by people taking chances using stock rods in built motors they let go. The best way to go about building a worth while short is using a stock crank and going with a forged rod/piston combo. It will take a heck of alot more abuse then some stock rods with arp bolts. But hey that just my 2 cents do what you want.
09-13-2011, 04:03 PM
#24
Thanks for all of the great feedback guys. MORE THAN LIKELY I will never hit the car with the juice but theres aloways that "just in case". Really I need to do my whole suspension and rear before I spray it anyways.
I guess its safe to say though if I decide not to spray it, the stock rods will hold fine for what Im doing, basic heads and cam. If I do decide 100% on spraying it though, I think Ill go with some good 6" forged rods.
Once again thanks for keeping it civil, and giving helpful advice. Now I have to decide who I want to do my heads.
I guess its safe to say though if I decide not to spray it, the stock rods will hold fine for what Im doing, basic heads and cam. If I do decide 100% on spraying it though, I think Ill go with some good 6" forged rods.
Once again thanks for keeping it civil, and giving helpful advice. Now I have to decide who I want to do my heads.
09-13-2011, 06:10 PM
#25
Village Troll 
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A stock crank will take all the power your willing to throw at it but its been proven many times on this board by people taking chances using stock rods in built motors they let go. The best way to go about building a worth while short is using a stock crank and going with a forged rod/piston combo. It will take a heck of alot more abuse then some stock rods with arp bolts. But hey that just my 2 cents do what you want.
09-14-2011, 01:24 PM
#28
Resident Racing Jerk
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Just remember... a tard can blow up an expensive forged rotating assembly with a quickness if he has the tools to make the car kill itself.
that said, i would stick with the stock stuff. arp rod bolts and stock pistons unless you are really going to be leaning on it. if so, i would do a lightweight forged piston. you dont want anything heavy trying to rip the rods apart. get it balanced and call it a day. i would trust the powdered rods over a chinese rod of similar design.
that said, i would stick with the stock stuff. arp rod bolts and stock pistons unless you are really going to be leaning on it. if so, i would do a lightweight forged piston. you dont want anything heavy trying to rip the rods apart. get it balanced and call it a day. i would trust the powdered rods over a chinese rod of similar design.
09-14-2011, 04:01 PM
#30
Just remember... a tard can blow up an expensive forged rotating assembly with a quickness if he has the tools to make the car kill itself.
that said, i would stick with the stock stuff. arp rod bolts and stock pistons unless you are really going to be leaning on it. if so, i would do a lightweight forged piston. you dont want anything heavy trying to rip the rods apart. get it balanced and call it a day. i would trust the powdered rods over a chinese rod of similar design.
that said, i would stick with the stock stuff. arp rod bolts and stock pistons unless you are really going to be leaning on it. if so, i would do a lightweight forged piston. you dont want anything heavy trying to rip the rods apart. get it balanced and call it a day. i would trust the powdered rods over a chinese rod of similar design.
09-14-2011, 05:10 PM
#31
From what I've read, the cost of resizing and fitting stock rods with ARP bolts is either the same or equal to a decent aftermarket forged I-beam with ARPs already installed in it. I've personally had a stock rod bolt failure, so I'm definately a supporter of getting some good bolts in whatever rod you end up with.
09-14-2011, 07:21 PM
#38
TECH Apprentice
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I used H rods on my previous 355 but I was spraying a dual shot 150..If it's in your budget go this route(link below)...I also wouldn't hesitate using the stock PM rods, they are very durable rods..now pink rods well??
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
http://www.ellweinengines.com/Ellwei...Kit/355Kit.htm
09-15-2011, 10:31 AM
#39
Just confirmed with my mechanic that he believes it was a rod failure, just as it appears in the picture 
So, to answer the OP's question...NO, don't use stock rods on a 355, whats a couple hundred bucks for insurance it can handle some abuse without snapping rods in half like a twig? Or, just stick with stock ones and risk building your motor twice like me
So, to answer the OP's question...NO, don't use stock rods on a 355, whats a couple hundred bucks for insurance it can handle some abuse without snapping rods in half like a twig? Or, just stick with stock ones and risk building your motor twice like me
09-15-2011, 10:42 AM
#40
Just confirmed with my mechanic that he believes it was a rod failure, just as it appears in the picture So, to answer the OP's question...NO, don't use stock rods on a 355, whats a couple hundred bucks for insurance it can handle some abuse without snapping rods in half like a twig? Or, just stick with stock ones and risk building your motor twice like me
So, to answer the OP's question...NO, don't use stock rods on a 355, whats a couple hundred bucks for insurance it can handle some abuse without snapping rods in half like a twig? Or, just stick with stock ones and risk building your motor twice like me