Use stock rods for 355?
Use stock rods for 355? Im starting to plan my 355 build. It's gonna be a fast street car with some trips to the track in the summer. I'm planning on a 100-150 shot. I'm keeping the stock computer so I'd like to shift at around 6500-6800 rpms.
I want to keep the stock crank. Im not sure on pistons and rods yet. I figured forged pistons would be a must but Im not sure if I should re-use the stock rods or if I should go with a forged set.
Goals for the car will be mid 11s and around 420RWHP.
What do you guys recommend?
Topend will be one of the big two names on here, I havent decided yet, and dont want to get into that.
I want to keep the stock crank. Im not sure on pistons and rods yet. I figured forged pistons would be a must but Im not sure if I should re-use the stock rods or if I should go with a forged set.
Goals for the car will be mid 11s and around 420RWHP.
What do you guys recommend?
Topend will be one of the big two names on here, I havent decided yet, and dont want to get into that.
I'm thinking it may be a little much on the rods myself but wanted some input. I know Gregrob used the stock crank in his high compression N2O build but I dont think he has it going yet. If I have to get a forged crank, I might as well stroke it, which will put me over what I want to spend on the bottom end parts.
I would recommend a decent set of rods and pistons for the spray.. I was in the same boat and ended up going 4340 all forged bottom just to be on the safe side.. Doing once only so i told the wife...lol
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"quality" forged parts would be ideal
...with that said polish the stock crank and get the rods resized for ARP bolts and good forged pistons.
spec a cam you dont need to spin past 6200 that makes good power
for nuts out cam specs then just go forged all the way
...with that said polish the stock crank and get the rods resized for ARP bolts and good forged pistons.
spec a cam you dont need to spin past 6200 that makes good power
for nuts out cam specs then just go forged all the way
All right another noob question. If I spin over 6500 rpms do I need to go with splayed main caps? Or can I keep two bolt mains? What if I go with a milder setup and just spin to 6200 like suggested?
Shifting at 7000-7100 here with stock rods, resized with ARP bolts. RPM is tougher on rods than cylinder pressure from the nitrous, provided you don't detonate.
Stock pistons won't leave you any margin for tuning error on a 150 shot, although I know people doing it.
The stock crank is the least of your worries.
The stock 2-bolt mains are fine for 6500 rpm and a 150 shot.
Stock pistons won't leave you any margin for tuning error on a 150 shot, although I know people doing it.
The stock crank is the least of your worries.
The stock 2-bolt mains are fine for 6500 rpm and a 150 shot.
If your looking for budget stock rods resized with arp hardware in them, Go with a mahle powerpack or some CP bullet pistons and let her rip. No 4 bolt caps are not needed but it doent hurt. I dont think I would flinch at a 2 bolt block with ARP main bolts and rod bolts with the shot your after.
Stock bottom end LT1s have gone high 130s on gas, I think Vtec has trapped a little over 140MPH in his stock bottom end LT1. Bowtienut got it right on the RPM. One of the old school guys on CZ28.com and a good friend of mine ran stock rods with ARP bolts, a cast Scat 3.75" crank, some forged off the shelf pistons, ported MTI LT1 heads and a little CC305 in a 383. He had a 150 shot hidden in the fender and another 150 on the elbow via a nozzle, car ran like that 5+ years, stock rods never let go.
Unless you dont care about another rebuild down the road go for it and see how long it lasts. IMO if your building a motor its best to do it right the first time with the right parts. Like mentioned it might take it for awhile but its a ticking time bomb if you plan to hit it with the jug.
QFT. Anyone will be hard pressed to find an incident where a LT1 rod failed that wasn't caused by something else.
Oh for ***** sake...
Unless you dont care about another rebuild down the road go for it and see how long it lasts. IMO if your building a motor its best to do it right the first time with the right parts. Like mentioned it might take it for awhile but its a ticking time bomb if you plan to hit it with the jug.
Last edited by SS RRR; Sep 13, 2011 at 10:40 AM.
on a 355 build the stock crank will handle more power than most will ever throw at it. Most go to forged cranks with "stroker" motors because cast cranks are **** and you cant use the stocker obviously. The stock rods are fairly strong aswell... but If it was my build, I would use the stock crank, good set of pistons, rods, w/ arp hardware.
reconditioned stock rods, ARP rod bolts, polished stock crank, forged pistons and 2bolt mains.
From everything Ive read stock rods are pretty strong and can handle some decent power with ARP bolts. Just make sure your tune is good.
From everything Ive read stock rods are pretty strong and can handle some decent power with ARP bolts. Just make sure your tune is good.
Last edited by AChotrod; Sep 13, 2011 at 11:06 AM.