ideas on 383 build
ideas on 383 build well the dreaded spun main baring an i was searching around for a 383 kit well i found one on ebay and wanted some feed back on it
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagle...mZ190551009959
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagle...mZ190551009959
If you spun a main you are likely best off to get a replacement block. In which case I would use a complete junkyard engine before what you are looking at on ebay. A stock shortblock is stronger than that and in all likelihood would make more power.
To get genuinely good parts you need to pretty much put a 1 in front of the price on what you are looking at, AND then the kit would not include damper or flexplate.
To get genuinely good parts you need to pretty much put a 1 in front of the price on what you are looking at, AND then the kit would not include damper or flexplate.
You want opinions, here is mine. Stay away from Eagle Crankshafts. Remember one rule of thumb...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR! Eagle is notorious for having balancing problems. I am not saying you can't balance them properly HOWEVER the amount of machining and material you have to remove to get them balanced over say a Callies Crankshaft is not worth it IMO.
Also there is A LOT more to consider when building a 383 Stroker than just the rotating assembly. Deck height, gasket thickness, Static and Dynamic Compression Ratios, heads, camshaft, valvetrain, intake manifold, throttle body, intake, headers, exhaust it all comes into play...I don't know what all you already have on your engine but to take full advantage of a 383 you need to upgrade just about EVERYTHING on the LT1 Engine if you want a 383 that will make more power than a modded 355...If you just throw in a 383 Rotating Assembly and call it good with stock or mildly ported heads and a small cam then you will be SEVERELY disappointed when a 355 with the same heads/cam/setup makes the same amount of power and runs faster at the track.
Also there is A LOT more to consider when building a 383 Stroker than just the rotating assembly. Deck height, gasket thickness, Static and Dynamic Compression Ratios, heads, camshaft, valvetrain, intake manifold, throttle body, intake, headers, exhaust it all comes into play...I don't know what all you already have on your engine but to take full advantage of a 383 you need to upgrade just about EVERYTHING on the LT1 Engine if you want a 383 that will make more power than a modded 355...If you just throw in a 383 Rotating Assembly and call it good with stock or mildly ported heads and a small cam then you will be SEVERELY disappointed when a 355 with the same heads/cam/setup makes the same amount of power and runs faster at the track.
I have to concur. You really do get what you pay for in this arena. A canned solution from eBay probably isn’t the best solution available to you. Do your homework and it will pay off! I just finished a 383 stroker build on my LT1 this summer myself.
Also another thing with that kit on Ebay that I didnt mention...look at the parts list and then slap yourself for thinking it is a good deal...
The Eagle Crankshaft is STEEL CAST
The Rods are NOT FORGED
The Pistons are hypereutectic which is basically stock replacement
All you are doing to that engine is building a VERY EXPENSIVE break. With the power you will be pushing out IF you upgraded heads/cam/intake/etc, the crank/rods/pistons would merely be ticking timebombs...If your going to do a 383 Stroker and don't want to build it TWICE, you need a 4043 Forged Crank, 4043 Forged Rods, and AT LEAST 4043 Forged Pistons IF NOT 2618 Forged Pistons.
If your on a budget, do a 355 rebuild and play it safe...don't even ATTEMPT the 383 because you will just end up paying double when you break a rod, crack a piston and/or break the crank.
I am building a 383 Stroker right now and in my Rotating Assembly ALONE I have $2000.00 invested, and that is not counting the Machining of the block ($500), the new Heads ($2500), upgraded Injectors ($400) and the list goes on! Either replace the crank and rod and keep it as is, do some minor upgrades to the current setup, or do it right...otherwise I will be looking for your thread you will post later titled something like "Broken Crank in my brand new 383".
The Eagle Crankshaft is STEEL CAST
The Rods are NOT FORGED
The Pistons are hypereutectic which is basically stock replacement
All you are doing to that engine is building a VERY EXPENSIVE break. With the power you will be pushing out IF you upgraded heads/cam/intake/etc, the crank/rods/pistons would merely be ticking timebombs...If your going to do a 383 Stroker and don't want to build it TWICE, you need a 4043 Forged Crank, 4043 Forged Rods, and AT LEAST 4043 Forged Pistons IF NOT 2618 Forged Pistons.
If your on a budget, do a 355 rebuild and play it safe...don't even ATTEMPT the 383 because you will just end up paying double when you break a rod, crack a piston and/or break the crank.
I am building a 383 Stroker right now and in my Rotating Assembly ALONE I have $2000.00 invested, and that is not counting the Machining of the block ($500), the new Heads ($2500), upgraded Injectors ($400) and the list goes on! Either replace the crank and rod and keep it as is, do some minor upgrades to the current setup, or do it right...otherwise I will be looking for your thread you will post later titled something like "Broken Crank in my brand new 383".
You are better off doing it right the first time. You will spend less in the long run. Are you going NA or FI? I just spent 2600 for my FI rotating assembly. Its not cheap but I don't have to worry about it breaking.
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You do not need a forged crank in a street car. Nor do you need to spend 2K on a rotating assembly. If this was a track only car then yes. Look at the Scat 9000 kit that CNC Motorsports has. The Scat 9000 crank, with forged rods and hyper pistons is fine. Most of the people that talk about broken cast cranks have never broke one and are just repeating what they read on the internet. A good balance job and a good tune with no detonation will insure the engine lives.
I just built this engine with the above kit....I will let you know when it breaks...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-project.html
I just built this engine with the above kit....I will let you know when it breaks...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-project.html
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You do not need a forged crank in a street car. Nor do you need to spend 2K on a rotating assembly. If this was a track only car then yes. Look at the Scat 9000 kit that CNC Motorsports has. The Scat 9000 crank, with forged rods and hyper pistons is fine. Most of the people that talk about broken cast cranks have never broke one and are just repeating what they read on the internet. A good balance job and a good tune with no detonation will insure the engine lives.
I just built this engine with the above kit....I will let you know when it breaks...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-project.html
I just built this engine with the above kit....I will let you know when it breaks...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-m...s-project.html
No way would I use a cast crank on ANY motor.
Except when the people who HAVE broken a cast crank chime in, is their opinion worthless? Or when a so-called respected engine builder (not saying any names) says that broken cast cranks happen all the time and that it's commonplace, yet continues to offer them in his motors?
No way would I use a cast crank on ANY motor.
No way would I use a cast crank on ANY motor.
Have you broke one? I havent. I have one in a Full Size Blazer, 383, that I pull a 7000 pound camper with. I have owned it for 10 years with the same cast Scat 9000 crank in it. Not one problem. The above 383 should make at least 500 CHP. Like I said I will let you know when it breaks.
Have you broke one? I havent. I have one in a Full Size Blazer, 383, that I pull a 7000 pound camper with. I have owned it for 10 years with the same cast Scat 9000 crank in it. Not one problem. The above 383 should make at least 500 CHP. Like I said I will let you know when it breaks.
A tow rig blazer is a completely incomparable application to a street/strip car as is comparing what a company put out over a decade ago vs. today.
A well done stroker LT1 should easily eclipse the 500hp rating on the aftermarket cast cranks.
Lots more to longevity than just hp though piston weight plays a huge role in rotating assembly stress.
A well done stroker LT1 should easily eclipse the 500hp rating on the aftermarket cast cranks.
Lots more to longevity than just hp though piston weight plays a huge role in rotating assembly stress.
I would never use a cast crank beside the factory one period.
I also laugh when people say stay away from Eagle. Their forged cranks are in more race cars than ANY other crank. Some MIGHT require some add work but same deal with most companies. Hell EVERY crank should be checked b4 you put the motor together.
I also laugh when people say stay away from Eagle. Their forged cranks are in more race cars than ANY other crank. Some MIGHT require some add work but same deal with most companies. Hell EVERY crank should be checked b4 you put the motor together.
I have also run a Scat 9000 crank to some good numbers as well. I had it in a FI 383 for 8 years and have run as fast as 137mph at 3850lbs. When the motor came apart it looked fine and still have it and might use it again one day.
Maybe it is a Scat vs Eagle thing??
Maybe it is a Scat vs Eagle thing??
Again with comparing OLD stuff to current stuff. Companies are always making stuff cheaper.
Scat has a better track record on cast stuff than Eagle but it is a couple hundred more to do forged vs. risk losing everything to cast.
Scat has a better track record on cast stuff than Eagle but it is a couple hundred more to do forged vs. risk losing everything to cast.
You want opinions, here is mine. Remember one rule of thumb...YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR! Eagle is notorious for having balancing problems. I am not saying you can't balance them properly HOWEVER the amount of machining and material you have to remove to get them balanced over say a Callies Crankshaft is not worth it IMO.
I would never use a cast crank beside the factory one period.
I also laugh when people say stay away from Eagle. Their forged cranks are in more race cars than ANY other crank. Some MIGHT require some add work but same deal with most companies. Hell EVERY crank should be checked b4 you put the motor together.
I also laugh when people say stay away from Eagle. Their forged cranks are in more race cars than ANY other crank. Some MIGHT require some add work but same deal with most companies. Hell EVERY crank should be checked b4 you put the motor together.
