LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

Totally picked the wrong bolts for header install!

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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:22 AM
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Default Totally picked the wrong bolts for header install!

Took me almost 1 and 1/2 hours to get the passenger side Jet hot headers in. I bought ARP 12 point header bolts. Mistake. The primaries are so close to the bolts that I can't get a socket on them.

Using 6 point bolts now and I had to use a open ended wrench to tighten them. May have to have my mechanic torque them down to spec when this is over.

Lunchtimes over. Back for the driver's side.....

Done.

Last edited by Rob94hawk; Sep 19, 2011 at 01:10 PM.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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What size are the bolts?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:25 AM
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Did you get the bolts with the 5/16" 12-pt or the 3/8" 12-pt? Never had a problem with the 5/16"s - the 3/8" though can be a bitch. What I ended up doing for those was take a 12-point box wrench and grind one side down (or open).
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:27 AM
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I reused my stock ones on my ls1.

Can you fit a ratcheting wrench on it?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by SS RRR
What size are the bolts?
Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
Did you get the bolts with the 5/16" 12-pt or the 3/8" 12-pt? Never had a problem with the 5/16"s - the 3/8" though can be a bitch. What I ended up doing for those was take a 12-point box wrench and grind one side down (or open).
Got the 3/8". Had no idea they sold 5/16". Learn something new everyday.

Originally Posted by mcalus
I reused my stock ones on my ls1.

Can you fit a ratcheting wrench on it?
No way can I fit it. Didn't think of using the stock ones. Some are in really bad shape.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 12:19 PM
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I like my stage 8 header bolts, they have both a regular style head on them, along with an alan head in them for that reason exactly. Not that it's a ton of fun using an alan wrench to get off the few cramped header bolts in and out, but at least it can be done!

Don't pay a mechanic to torque them, you can get an adequate torque wrench at walmart for $20. Comes in handy for a lot of things, lug nuts, suspension pieces, even the oil drain plug (if you're that ****)...seems just about everything has a torque spec on it if you look it up.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:08 PM
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u dont have to torqe ur header bolts lol.............just get the little *** wrench ur putting them on with and go as tight as u can with that little wrench.......unless you are the incredible hulk you'll be fine lol
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by quik95lt1
u dont have to torqe ur header bolts lol.............just get the little *** wrench ur putting them on with and go as tight as u can with that little wrench.......unless you are the incredible hulk you'll be fine lol
Thanx for the heads up. Will double check them all tomorrow.

I posted a pic above.

Oh and the #1 press in primary, what should I use to prevent leaks? A heavy duty hose clamp?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob94hawk
Thanx for the heads up. Will double check them all tomorrow.

I posted a pic above.
Just make sure to start on the inside bolts and work your way out.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob94hawk
Thanx for the heads up. Will double check them all tomorrow.

I posted a pic above.

Oh and the #1 press in primary, what should I use to prevent leaks? A heavy duty hose clamp?
NO dont hose clamp it.......you will distort the two mating surfaces and it will NEVER seal.......just get some of the copper high temp silicone from permatex........slather it on the pipe and put it together..........after it dries peel off the excess from the outside if it bothers you........i did this with my hooker super comps for years and it never leaked..........NO HOSE CLAMP!!! LOL
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:28 PM
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Originally Posted by quik95lt1
NO dont hose clamp it.......you will distort the two mating surfaces and it will NEVER seal.......just get some of the copper high temp silicone from permatex........slather it on the pipe and put it together..........after it dries peel off the excess from the outside if it bothers you........i did this with my hooker super comps for years and it never leaked..........NO HOSE CLAMP!!! LOL
It's already on but I'll jamb some of the crap in there tomorrow.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
I like my stage 8 header bolts, they have both a regular style head on them, along with an alan head in them for that reason exactly.

I have small Allen head ball drivers and cut down wrenches that get the Stage 8 bolts in and out rather quickly.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MasterTomos
I like my stage 8 header bolts, they have both a regular style head on them, along with an alan head in them for that reason exactly. Not that it's a ton of fun using an alan wrench to get off the few cramped header bolts in and out, but at least it can be done!

Don't pay a mechanic to torque them, you can get an adequate torque wrench at walmart for $20. Comes in handy for a lot of things, lug nuts, suspension pieces, even the oil drain plug (if you're that ****)...seems just about everything has a torque spec on it if you look it up.
I have a torque wrench. One that goes up to 75 ft/lbs the other for inch/lbs.

What Stage 8's do you have. Is there a specific part #?
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 05:46 PM
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I used the hooker/jet hot headers and those bolts too. the farthest bolt on the drivers side still isnt in all the way lol.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:19 PM
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Used the stage 8 ones as well. The allen heads were amazing.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:35 PM
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I never knew there were 5/16" bolts either, I always though 3/8" or 7/16". I've never had an issue using 3/8", but I've only had BBK shorties and then later Pacesetter longtubes.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Rob94hawk
I have a torque wrench. One that goes up to 75 ft/lbs the other for inch/lbs.

What Stage 8's do you have. Is there a specific part #?
Its been years since Ive bought them, I cant remember for sure. Sorry maybe some one else will chime in
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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Originally Posted by RamAir95TA
What I ended up doing for those was take a 12-point box wrench and grind one side down (or open).
I have a tool drawer full of "modified" wrenches, sockets and other odd tool-like paraphernalia that have the purpose of turning just one bolt. This is where those cheep tools come in handy-I'd never grind up a Snap-On tool but a Tru-Value or Great Neck wrench? Let the sparks fly!
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 08:48 PM
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Originally Posted by camar0corey
I never knew there were 5/16" bolts either, I always though 3/8" or 7/16". I've never had an issue using 3/8", but I've only had BBK shorties and then later Pacesetter longtubes.
This must be them: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-1209/

It was tight on some of the primaries just getting the bolt let alone torquing them down. What funny is I have about 8 hex and 4 shiny 12 point bolted in. I'm gonna leave well enough alone for now. As long as they do the job who cares.
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 09:51 PM
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I use Breslin header bolts on mine. I took a spare boxed 12-point wrench and cut it to make things simpler. Best header bolts ever, BTW.

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