First Crank on the new motor
First Crank on the new motor http://youtu.be/7oMWbBJ2tkA
Finally got the motor in the car and cranked it up last night after 8 months of down time. Still have a lot to do, but it feels good to hear it run.
I didn't have the water pump installed yet, so I didn't hook up the water temp sensor.
It won't crank unless you give it throttle. I'm going to install the water pump and fill it with coolant so I can run it a little longer, but does anyone have any ideas why you have to give it the throttle to start it? Could it have something to do with coolant temp being -40*? Also, does the knock sensor work correctly without coolant in the block?
Only code it threw was "low coolant".
Also once it started it stayed running at an idle with no problems. Just a little confused that it won't start without giving it some throttle. Maybe something with the Holley 58mm TB?
Finally got the motor in the car and cranked it up last night after 8 months of down time. Still have a lot to do, but it feels good to hear it run.
I didn't have the water pump installed yet, so I didn't hook up the water temp sensor.
It won't crank unless you give it throttle. I'm going to install the water pump and fill it with coolant so I can run it a little longer, but does anyone have any ideas why you have to give it the throttle to start it? Could it have something to do with coolant temp being -40*? Also, does the knock sensor work correctly without coolant in the block?
Only code it threw was "low coolant".
Also once it started it stayed running at an idle with no problems. Just a little confused that it won't start without giving it some throttle. Maybe something with the Holley 58mm TB?
Ya, I bought an email tune from Solomon and loaded it to the pcm before I cranked it. I'm going to datalog it and have him fine tune it until I can get to the dyno.
I'm about to go work on installing the water pump and getting some coolant in there, so we'll see if anything changes.
I'm about to go work on installing the water pump and getting some coolant in there, so we'll see if anything changes.
Or if you would like to know how to handle idle air in a correct fashion and understand things. You can go here.
http://members.***.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/#stocktbi
http://members.***.net/chipsbyal/page/idle/#stocktbi
I kept the bottom end the same, 383. Just refreshed it a little. I bumped up compression to 12:1. Upgraded cam from cc305 to LE custom 232/242 .579/.578 110lsa. And beefed up the valvetrain to support the cam. I ported the heads to 195cc and got larger valves 2.02/1.6. The heads won't compare to a CNC job or even an experienced hand porter job, but they flow a good deal better than stock. Going from a stock torque converter to the Yank SS3600, and gears from 3.23 to 3.73.
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If that is an aftermarket TB you need to check for the hole that bleeds air in the IAC passage. We just went threw this with a budies 383 with a 58 mm TB. If you compare your stock TB to the aftermarket you will see what I am talking about. You also need to log and watch you IAC counts, they need to be down around 30-50. You adjust this by setting the throttle blade screw, while loging the car until they come down. Thats how we did it and it worked great.
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I appreciate the info on the TB, but my idle seems fine for now. I'm more concerned about why I have to give it throttle to start it. Only reason I mentioned TB is because I thought it may be the cause (not enough air getting in).
I installed the water pump and all the plumbing. I forgot I had taken the heater core hoses out to paint the engine bay. Those were a PITA to get back in with the motor in, wish I would have done that before I dropped the motor in. I also forgot how much room all the coolant hoses take up.
After I put coolant in the system and ran the EWP, no leaks found, I went to start it and now I have no spark. I was too tired and frustrated by then to troubleshoot, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the opti harness. I didn't mess with anything else and it was running fine the day before (once is started).
I installed the water pump and all the plumbing. I forgot I had taken the heater core hoses out to paint the engine bay. Those were a PITA to get back in with the motor in, wish I would have done that before I dropped the motor in. I also forgot how much room all the coolant hoses take up.
After I put coolant in the system and ran the EWP, no leaks found, I went to start it and now I have no spark. I was too tired and frustrated by then to troubleshoot, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the opti harness. I didn't mess with anything else and it was running fine the day before (once is started).
Sounds pretty close to the same combo i have LE 234/242 .579/.577 110LSA with a 383 with 12:1 compression. I also just had the heads cleaned up but am still running stock valves. So far the car has gone 12.74 at 112 with a 2.0 60' on stock converter, stock suspension, and full weight with 2.73 gears.
IAC counts are high 70-80. I'll get that adjusted and see if that helps. It cranked a couple times tonight without giving it throttle, but more often I had to give it throttle.
I appreciate the info on the TB, but my idle seems fine for now. I'm more concerned about why I have to give it throttle to start it. Only reason I mentioned TB is because I thought it may be the cause (not enough air getting in).
I installed the water pump and all the plumbing. I forgot I had taken the heater core hoses out to paint the engine bay. Those were a PITA to get back in with the motor in, wish I would have done that before I dropped the motor in. I also forgot how much room all the coolant hoses take up.
After I put coolant in the system and ran the EWP, no leaks found, I went to start it and now I have no spark. I was too tired and frustrated by then to troubleshoot, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the opti harness. I didn't mess with anything else and it was running fine the day before (once is started).
I installed the water pump and all the plumbing. I forgot I had taken the heater core hoses out to paint the engine bay. Those were a PITA to get back in with the motor in, wish I would have done that before I dropped the motor in. I also forgot how much room all the coolant hoses take up.
After I put coolant in the system and ran the EWP, no leaks found, I went to start it and now I have no spark. I was too tired and frustrated by then to troubleshoot, but I'm thinking it may have something to do with the opti harness. I didn't mess with anything else and it was running fine the day before (once is started).
Thanks 
I agree that it will probably start and idle better after I drill a hole in the TB IAC passage.
I keep taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back
It takes some major patience to play with these cars (unless you have plenty of money), and my patience (and wallet) is running thin 
I will be testing my fuel pump this evening to see what went wrong. I have another thread on this but I'm not getting any responses. I'll just have to troubleshoot it tonight and hope it's the relay or something, but it was working great one second and just went dead. If it's the pump, I hope racetronix has a warranty because it's less than one year old with less than 2000 miles on it.
I agree that it will probably start and idle better after I drill a hole in the TB IAC passage.I keep taking 1 step forward and 2 steps back
It takes some major patience to play with these cars (unless you have plenty of money), and my patience (and wallet) is running thin I will be testing my fuel pump this evening to see what went wrong. I have another thread on this but I'm not getting any responses. I'll just have to troubleshoot it tonight and hope it's the relay or something, but it was working great one second and just went dead. If it's the pump, I hope racetronix has a warranty because it's less than one year old with less than 2000 miles on it.