LT1-LT4 Modifications 1993-97 Gen II Small Block V8

383 Motor Failure. FML

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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:41 AM
  #41  
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by mcalus
This is a bit off topic but do you guys suggest balancing a stock crank, stock rods 355?
IMO it depends on how high you are going to spin it. Last stock rotating assy. I had done retained the stock balance and was spun to 6500rpm with no issue.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 11:49 AM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by mcalus
This is a bit off topic but do you guys suggest balancing a stock crank, stock rods 355?
Yes. Just make sure that you send the balancer and flexplate with the rotating assembly.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 12:16 PM
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Originally Posted by GIZMO
Yes. Just make sure that you send the balancer and flexplate with the rotating assembly.
yes what he said..........balancing is never a drawback and never a waste of money.......longevitiy and horsepower are by products......i balanced my stock crank and rod 355 and spun that 7000rpm no issues......
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 12:51 PM
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The cam peaks at 6200. Original crank, rods, caps. New bearings, new pistons, arp rod and main bolts
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 02:11 PM
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Balancing is a good mod..you'll notice a difference.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 03:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mcalus
The cam peaks at 6200. Original crank, rods, caps. New bearings, new pistons, arp rod and main bolts
thats exactly what i had.......peaked at 6400 shifted at 6800 crossed line at 6900
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 03:30 PM
  #47  
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^^ you just pretty much described stock eliminator. Gizmo can tell ya, he's a stock eliminator racer.

for instance, I've heard of guys going through boxes and boxes of stock rocker arms to find 16 of the lightest and closest in weight to each other.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 04:00 PM
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From: Jackstandican
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Originally Posted by GIZMO
Yes. Just make sure that you send the balancer and flexplate with the rotating assembly.
If balancing is desired it's far more practical to have the rotating assembly internally balanced.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 04:04 PM
  #49  
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I build about 8-12 engines a year and when I hear someone say theirs is "balanced and blueprinted" it always brings a smile to my face. That isn't something you brag about because it's expected to be done. You balance your tires and you balance your engine. I have seen stock factory engines that were very close and worthy of praise and I've seen some barely acceptable. That might be why some run well and others....well, not so much.

I can't imagine the stress that was induced into the rotating assembly by a builders mistake. I also find it amazing that it ran for two years like this. I would have bet that a cast crank with a weighted flex-plate wouldn't last a month, let alone two years. That speaks very highly of the quality of the eagle cranks.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by DVS LT1
This is unbelievable. How anyone could let that go for 2 years!? - or even be able to tolerate it while driving. When my new stroker engine had been installed it was accidentally bolted up to the stock flexplate - I had yet to drop off the balanced TCI flexplate and the install was ahead of schedule... obviously one of the shop guys wasn't told the proper plate was coming. The harmonic vibrations were SO bad as they went to road test it thankfully the consensus was it clearly wasn't normal and one of the guys had the good sense to say under no circumstances does this car leave the lot. When I showed up late that same day to drop off the balanced flexplate and was asking about it they said see for yourself - pull her into the garage for the night. I started her up and had her in drive for maybe 10 seconds and the harmonic vibrations were unbelievable - my teeth were rattling, and it sounded/felt as if there were subwoofers connected to every pillar/panel on the car that were being blasted far beyond their means (you know when you hear guys with jacked up stereos just blasting their subs to the point its not even music but mere bass distortion).

Even with a rumbley exhaust/choppy cam etc how the ef could someone let that go on for 2 years???? In the back of my mind I'm still worried about the 5+ minutes of total run time my engine's bearings had with the wrong flexplate :S
I have no idea what the previous owner was thinking. When I got it, it wasn't running that great. I spent the summer doing things like optisparks, adjusting rockers, replacing a radiator, ding a general tune up and getting a decent set of OVC spark plug wires. I also had a trans failure that i suspect was caused by the Flexplate too, it snapped the snap ring off of the input drum, and tore it up pretty good. i had that rebuilt. We thought that the vibration was in the trans, but after it was rebuilt we realized that it was still wrong. Thats when we replaced the Flexplate. After ******* around with TCI for a while (sent me a mislabled part) I finally got a TCI neutral balanced FP. Its still sitting in the box, because I was going to put that in with a new converter in the spring. SO, right now, the car has a balanced stock unit with ARP hardware. I guess it was just too late to avoid engine damage. I'm guessing the thrust bearing looks pulverized.

Just to clarify again, the motor was sold without a flexplate, the person who bought it and put it into the car put the stock LT1 unit on the motor. I blame this 100% on the installer, NOT the builder of the motor.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 07:41 PM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by 1963SS
I build about 8-12 engines a year and when I hear someone say theirs is "balanced and blueprinted" it always brings a smile to my face. That isn't something you brag about because it's expected to be done. You balance your tires and you balance your engine. I have seen stock factory engines that were very close and worthy of praise and I've seen some barely acceptable. That might be why some run well and others....well, not so much.

I can't imagine the stress that was induced into the rotating assembly by a builders mistake. I also find it amazing that it ran for two years like this. I would have bet that a cast crank with a weighted flex-plate wouldn't last a month, let alone two years. That speaks very highly of the quality of the eagle cranks.

See, Thats my thought as well. I keep hearing that eagle is crap, but if one of their cast cranks lasted THAT long, I can deal with getting a forged unit checked out before installing and just run it. I'd LOVE a callies crank, but I don't have 1100 to spend on the crank. Even with it fucked up the way it is, the car still starts and runs just fine...LOL I HAD to drive it to the storage place, 10 miles away. I also had to drive it home after it became apparent that the something was wrong.... 57 miles away from home (no truck trailer or friend I could borrow from. Tow would have been about 500 bucks, minimum.) Its in storage right now in a heated locked garage, and I'll have to figure out what Im going to do over the winter. When spring hits, we are going to tear it apart and see whats what.
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Old Nov 4, 2011 | 08:24 PM
  #52  
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Look into the Howard's crank I mentioned earlier, they aren't $1100, they are American made.
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Old Nov 5, 2011 | 02:02 PM
  #53  
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I just got some great news. The previous owner contacted me about the car. He still has the origonal 90K long block sitting at his fathers shop. Its complete from intake to oil pan too, even has the origonal delco Opti. Its been sitting in a garage for 2the years, but he said its mine if I want to pick it up. So, it looks like Ill have an engine to build over the winter, if I want.
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