Some of you read the thread below, some not. The Gist of the whole story is this:

Motor is a 383 Stroker, here are the mods:

1994 Black, 2 bolt mains
internally balanced
Cast Eagle Crank
I beam Rods
Flat top SRP Pistons, right around 10.5 to 1 compression
Home ported heads and intake
Cran3 1.6 roller rockers, guide plates, stock PR length
GM847 Cam
42lb Lucas fuel injectors
PCMforless Tune
160* thermostat
Moroso 7qt Oil pan
Built 4l60E

I now have about an 1/8 inch play up and down in the crank pulley at the front of the motor. Likely either broke the crank, or took out bearings. Oil pressure is good, motor still runs fine, and doesn't overheat or smoke.

I also have (as in will be picking up soon) the stock 90K mile long block complete from intake to oil pan. Motor ran just fine when it was taken out of the car (when the stroker was put in) and has been sitting in a garage for 2 years.

The way I see it, I have a couple of options.

1. I pick up the stock motor, disassemble over the winter, line hone/tank/clean up on the stock block, buy a new crank, use the rest of the rotating assembly from the blown stroker motor and bolt everything else back on it.

2. Take the 90K mile motor, disassemble, buy a new rotating assembly, internally balance it, and move everything else from the stroker over to the newish long block.

Regardless, I'll have the heads on the stroker and the intake flowed, and ported a bit more as needed. Everything else seems to be alright on the stroker motor, the heads are okay, the headers are fine, oil pan is good.... its a possibility that the stroker needs just a new crank, line hone, and bearings.... but we won't know until spring.

What would you guys do? I'm not a stranger to cars, and I'm willing to tackle a build by myself if need be. I've just never done one on my own, and the only other motors I've ever rebuilt have been a 1.9L Saturn motor (didnt turn out well) and a 2.9L V6 out of an 89 Bronco 2. The bronco still runs like a top, but we just did bearings and an oil pump. We didn't pull the pistons or the heads.

 

Dont go with the cast crank. It will come back to bite u in the ***. If you are not going with a good set of heads and a pretty big cam, just go with a 355 and use the stock crank.

 

disassemble that stock motor, hone/clean block, get it balanced with rod bolts, and reassemble with new bearings/rings.
imo, dont do any other machine work on it. maybe deck it a tad...

top it off with the best heads you can afford and then get a cam/springs/rr's with whatever money you have left.

 

first you need clearly defined goals. whats the intended use and how much power do you want?

 

Goals are for near or better 400whp, mostly a street car but the ability to run at the track. I'd like to dive it daily in the summer months. It will be getting a streetable TC, the trans is already built, and it WILL be getting 3.73 gears. I already have a UMI torque arm relocation bracket sitting here, a new crossmember with a drivshaft loop, and a neutral balanced TCI Flexplate with ARP hardware.

It would be a shame to use the stock rods/pistons when I have forged stuff in the stroker motor. It almost seems like I could get a set of heads, use the good parts out of the stroker motor heads, the pistons, (rods if they are okay) and get a forged crank. Basically, use the stock block, transfer over rods/pistons, flow the intake off the stroker/port as needed, and put it back together. Obviously, I'll be putting it on a dyno to tune, but that should put me at least back to where I was, and mabey a bit better.
with the stroker motor, the car made 380 at the wheels with a busted trans.

 

if you had GOOD pistons and rods in the 383, i would reuse that stuff and get a forged 3.75 crank.

 

AFAIK, the rods and pistons are just fine. With good oil pressure, and no smoke out of the rear end, I'm guessing they should be alright. I don't hear any rod knock at all, so other than bearings, they should be gtg. or are you implying that what i had wasn't good stuff out of the box? lol All I know is that they are forged Ibeam rods, and Forged SRP flat top pistons.

 

i would break it down and have a machine shop check all the parts that you want to reuse. then figure out what its going to cost from there. with the complete kits that are available it may not cost much more money to just start over with fresh rotating asy. if you look at coast high performance they run deals on complete balanced rotating asy for less than 1600.

 

clean up the stock motor,
have it line bored and acid dipped,
then move everything over from the stroker to it with new rings and bearings.