Steering wheel shakeing
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: NC
Steering wheel shakeing Ive never really had this problem before but now the car pulls to the right and the steering wheel shakes alittle around town but past 55 mph it shakes alil more and in the wet if i have the steering wheel turned alot or if im going over a speed bump or brakeing i here a lound click or thump. im just concerned because im bout to go on a short 350 mile road trip and im wanting to know if it would be safe ? or should i go spend what little money i have on getting it diagnosed and fixed.
Stick your head under the front of the car and snap a pic of what you see. AFAIK we all use the same rack setup on Fbody cars.
I have a shake in my wheel too, but I've just put a new rack in my car and tierod ends. I blame the tires.
A clicking/popping sound can generally mean bad balljoints or tierod ends. I'd wager tie rod ends or rack problems if it only happens when the wheel is hard to one side, I don't think suspension geometry changes in that sort of situation.
Vibration can also be warped rotors, debris from the pads, or a bad wheel hub.
it can be tires too.. tire temp, or even damaged sidewalls can do that.
I hate to be so general, I'd focus on the tierod ends and the rack first, then go from there.
I have a shake in my wheel too, but I've just put a new rack in my car and tierod ends. I blame the tires.
A clicking/popping sound can generally mean bad balljoints or tierod ends. I'd wager tie rod ends or rack problems if it only happens when the wheel is hard to one side, I don't think suspension geometry changes in that sort of situation.
Vibration can also be warped rotors, debris from the pads, or a bad wheel hub.
it can be tires too.. tire temp, or even damaged sidewalls can do that.
I hate to be so general, I'd focus on the tierod ends and the rack first, then go from there.
I'd put money on the tie rods, ball joints, and/or end links. Warpped rotors will shake when the brake is applied. Severly warpped rotors will shake even if the brake is not applied, but at this point it should be pulling the steering wheel out of your hands when you hit the brake pedal.
Jack the car up and secure it with jackstands. Place hands on tire at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions and move tire back and forth to see if there is any play. Do the same with your hands at the 12 and 6 o'clock positions. If there is any free movement/play from vertical movement it could be ball joints and horizontal movement could be from bad tie rod ends. Take it to a good alignment shop and have them check it out. Most places offer free alignment inspection.
Thread Starter
Staging Lane
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 50
Likes: 0
From: NC
the rotors arnt the issue and im mostly concerned about if its a possibilty that they some how give out when im going 70 80 mph im bout to take it to a shop because all of the people who could help me and my tools are at the place were im going. how much you think the shop will charge me for tie rod ends
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I think when I had mine done. I had a new rack put in, moog tie rod ends, new p/s pump, hoses, I provided all the parts but labor OTD was around $800 on all that. It MAY have included new rotors pads and calipers too but I don't remember if that was all at the same time.
$500 sounds about right. Get the moog tie rod ends, they're serviceable and not much more expensive.
$500 sounds about right. Get the moog tie rod ends, they're serviceable and not much more expensive.
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Did u bend ur rim at all?
How's tire pressure?
Do u have all ur wheel weights on the rim?
Is there a flat spot on the tire or broken belt?
These r very common symptoms and I specialize in alignments and see these to always b the main causes. Especially if low speeds u have a shimmy.
How's tire pressure?
Do u have all ur wheel weights on the rim?
Is there a flat spot on the tire or broken belt?
These r very common symptoms and I specialize in alignments and see these to always b the main causes. Especially if low speeds u have a shimmy.
